truckcop

First rule of Fight Club . . .

If you have a GunBroker.com account, do a search for Benelli Receiver. There's a company called Perfetto Performance that sells a lot of used Benelli parts on GB and Ebay. They don't list that part now but it may be something they might have laying around. Send them a PM through GB and ask. I've purchased a number of used parts from them over they years and they're GTG.

Some here have found that a break-in period was necessary. Also, as noted above, make sure it's properly lubricated.

The ComforTech stock will not fit the M1. Limbsaver makes replacement recoil pads for the M1. That's about the best you're going to do there. Otherwise, you'll just have to live with it, or go with another system. Personally I've never had an issue with the Benelli recoil but I know it's an issue for some. Borrow a friend's gas gun and go out and do the same thing you did with the B and see if there's really that much difference in how you feel at he end.

One more. (stupid 2 pic limit)

I ended up buying a used M1 receiver of the same vintage as the M1 that already has the rail/RMR. That way, I could just take the barrel/stock/internals off the current one and put it on the new-old one. Used the Scalarworks rail/RMR mount as the template for drillin'/tappin'. D&T'd the receiver then separated the rail from the RMR-mount portion. Affixed the mount to the receiver, installed the RMR. Looks like it will work just fine. Sight is definitely lower on the receiver compared to putting it on a rail with the standard low RMR mount. Lowering it also allowed me to set it back a bit on the receiver, effectively making the dot appear a bit smaller. Sorry about butchering you mount Scalarworks. Had to be done. In the name of science don't you know. Edited - problem described has been fixed.(unrelated to sight/mount) Pics of the current sight configuration:

Maybe should have started a new thread with this question but a 21" M2 is just fine for skeet and pheasant shooting. That configuration was my primary skeet/sporting clays/pheasant hunting gun in 12 ga. until I started shooting a lot of 20 ga. a couple of years ago. If they made one, I'd put a 21 incher on my 20 ga. M2. Some people prefer the sight picture/swing of the longer barrels but it is absolutely not necessary for the shooting you mention.

You'll probably find that pink unicorn first. I had one more older M1 field that I had been trying to find one for. I ended up selling that one and just buying a M2 with a 21 inch barrel. My local Bass Pro had one in stock. Less frustration, more immediate gratification. Then, if you so desire, you can find a longer barrel to put on it at lot easier than you can find the shorter ones.

Personal preference but I prefer the dot. The triangle gives you the option of a more precise aiming point for distance shots but that's not really a shotgun thing.

Along those lines, I received my mount last week for a little experimentation on my M1/M2's. The contour of the mount is compatible with the receivers on those models as well. The only difference is the precious little material in the receiver for D&T'ing directly above the barrel extension for the mounting screws in the rail section of the mount. The non-tactical versions have that groove along the top of the receiver that really leaves that area very thin. There's plenty of material in the rear portion of the receiver behind the barrel extension. That's why I am considering, as mentioned in a previous post on this thread, separating the RMR mount from the rail section. For a 3-gun shotgun I don't need the rail. Just the RMR mount. It would be mounted near the rear of the receiver so there's plenty of metal there for support and the RMR-portion has two holes for installing it. I've just got to decide which gun I'm going to try this out on, since there's no going back after the drill has entered the receiver. I've measured and the installation would put the RMR dot a good quarter inch lower than what I already have on the gun below, making for a much better view through the sight. Right now it's just a tad high. We'll see what happens.

Let me try one more time. Please read carefully. Since I doubt seriously that the barrel itself is threaded on the outside, I'm going to assume that the muzzle of your barrel looks like the first picture above in roofless's post. That thing sticking out with the threads on it screws into the end of your barrel. It also screws out. Hopefully your gun came with a choke wrench. (If it didn't, use a quarter.) Use the choke wrench to unscrew (counterclockwise) that device from the barrel. You can then screw in standard chokes. Benelli barrels are flared a tiny bit in the last few inches to accommodate those screw-in chokes.

Old posting here: http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/33009-For-Sale-Benelli-Factory-M4-M1-Muzzle-Brake-Compensator-Breacher Benelli also made a "practical" M1 that included a muzzle brake but I don't think it had the serrated edge of that one. It was designed for competition. The Rafaello doesn't seem to be the type of gun such a device would be useful for. Did you buy the gun NIB or was it used? Perhaps a previous owner installed the threaded device. Still somewhat unclear as to your barrel. Are the outside threads on a screw-in choke-like device or is the barrel itself threaded on the outside. hint: PICTURES!

While uncommon, I have had a new GR-equipped gun arrive with the front sight soldered on just a bit off. (not a Benelli) I had the sight-in problem you have. Upon very close inspection you could see the sight wasn't aligned perfectly on top of the barrel but was off to the side a couple of millimeters. Anything is possible. IMO, shotgun barrels aren't science. They're voodoo. We have 30 identical 870's in the academy inventory with identical configurations. They'll all shoot to POA but they're all individuals when it comes to shot patterning. Some pattern tight. Some pattern loose, to be kind.

Trying to visualize such thing. Hard to imagine. Are you saying you also have chokes for it?? Pictures!?

Once it has been established that there is a POA/POI discrepancy and not a fit-to-the-shooter issue, there are ways that it can be addressed. Sometimes, a higher/lower sight bead or rib can be used to fix up/down issues. Right/left issues a(and up/down issues) can possibly be remedied by eccentric choke tubes. There are smith's out there that offer barrel bending services. I've never had someone seriously suggest that "whacking" a barrel against a tree or fencepost could be a viable technique and if they did, I would move back away from them as far as I could get. That's a good way to really cause some real damage to the barrel, not just make a fine adjustment. There are jigs a barrel can be placed in to make adjustments but from what I've seen it would necessitate removal of a vent rib if so equipped. You don't say which version M2 you have or the sighting system. If you're exclusively shooting slugs, a barrel with adjustable rifle sights could fix your problem. If you have a friend with a M2 configured the same as yours, swap barrels and see if the issue still exists or goes away. Have him shoot with your barrel on his gun. Who knows, your problem might go away and he might not have a problem. Problem solved. Tree whacking?? I don't think so.

Copper solids, or ANY sabot slug for that matter, are only designed to be fired from rifled barrels. I don't shoot slugs from my SBE but my best results from my M4/M1's are with Federal Truball and Brenneke slugs. Generally, they tend to group better out to 50 yards with the lower velocity versions.

Try Numrich for a spring. I purchased a barrel a while back that didn't have the ejector installed. Numrich had both parts at that time. Depends on what you mean by "freely". It's under spring tension. It will move back if you push on it but will go back forward when you let go. If should move freely back and forth without the spring installed.

As I recall, slide the ejector plate all the way forward into the grooves of the receiver, then feed the spring in through the hole towards the back of the receiver. When it's fully inserted, hook the forward end of the spring on the tab at the front of the plate. At least that's how I remember it. Is that spring broken or kinked? Based on the photo, I'd replace that as well. Just wondering. How in blue blazes did the ejector plate break? It rides back and forth in steel grooves. It's steel. Just wondering.

While I am coveting one of those myself, that obviously won't work with the Sidearmor shell holder. 3gunner, you want the lowest possible mount you can get if mounting directly to the Sidearmor or Benelli rail. RM33. Here's one mounted to a section of rail on one of my M1's. Mounted to the M4 rail I think it's still too high to use the irons.

Oh yeah, and Vertigofirearms: While the M1 may no longer be in production, to call it "extinct" overstates the situation, IMHO. They are still highly desirable as field guns as well as the basis for 3-gun shooters. They still bring a pretty good price, although deals can be had, and since most of the internal parts are compatible with the M2 it will be easy to maintain their operation for years to come. Extinct? I don't think so.

Occasionally one will pop up on Ebay or GB as "new - old stock" in its original Benelli wrapping. I picked up a couple over the years that way. Later versions only had the triangle on one side with just the round button on the other.

Can't advise on the other two but you'll find it hard to go wrong with the Benelli. Although, for the amount of use it's going to get, my advise is to go with something like a Remington 870. It's a workhorse, cheap, and a good intro gun. You can always upgrade to something else if you really get into it. I've taken mine on our annual pheasant hunt a couple of times just for grins. Shot just as many birds, had just a much fun. Benelli Nova is another good choice. Also a cheap intro gun. My 2 cents, for what it's worth.

Rather than just putting your finger in the loading port and pushing on the end of the latch I find it works better to pinch the end of the latch between the thumb and forefinger. Make sure your forefinger is all the way on the front of the latch and the thumb is opposite the forefinger on the outside of the receiver. Give it a good pinch and the shell should pop right out of the magazine. Works for me anyway. I don't see where shooting it more would make this procedure easier.

20 gauge forends are not the same as 12's and are not interchangeable.

Have the receiver d&t'd and install a picatinny or weaver rail.