truckcop

It looks like the comp that came on the original M1, "Practical" version that was designed for IPSC-type competitions. http://archives.collectorsfirearms.com/?category=934&subcategory=1186&category=&product=s757

I've never had an issue with Ebay items. Always as described and I haven't been scammed once in hundred of purchases, including two Benelli stocks. Check the seller's feedback and how many transactions they've completed. A good indication of their reliability.

1. Probably 2. Probably 3. Probably, somewhere. Will take diligent searching in the usual places, i.e., GunBroker, EBay, etc. 4. Should work just fine, although, as you noted, different choke systems between I & II. 5. I dunno that one. 6. They can be cut down but be careful who you have do it. I bought one that had the muzzle blown out and cut down. I sent it to Briley, they pronounced the remains healthy and installed their thin-wall choke system. They advised not enough material to thread factory chokes.

Looks like an older Montefeltro.

The one on their website for the II may be the same one for their I. Call and ask.

I don't have an 828U but having owned a number of O/U shotguns I'd be very surprised if there is such an end-user adjustment ability. The lockup of a break-action firearm is critical to proper function and safety and I doubt a manual adjustment of that is advisable. The only way my O/U guns ever "loosened up" was through heavy use.

Someone please clue me in. A shotgun, especially the M4, is a sledge hammer, not a chasers hammer (look it up). It's not going to be a sniper rifle no matter what you do to it. I would never criticize what someone would do to their own tools. I'm just not seeing the utility of such a specialized, expensive addition with a questionable outcome (see above). Talk me into it. I'm sure Briley would appreciate the work. :-)

Yep, sometimes the simplest solution is the answer. Glad you got it figured out.

More than likely it's a matter of barrel length. The Benelli website doesn't show a 10809 but a couple of dealer websites indicate the 869 with a 26" barrel and the 809 as 28", same as the 870 shown on the Benelli site. Who knows? Model numbers and specs change. For a definitive answer, call Benelli customer service. They're usually pretty responsive to such inquiries. Also, make sure the serial number on the box matches the serial number on the gun. It's possible that someone pulled out the wrong box when you purchased it.

Your question is too general and non-specific in terms of what you want to do. You're not going to turn a M3 into a M4. How would you like to make it so? What is your vision for your M3's future?

That much difference in barrel length has no effect on the shot pattern for shooting clays. I shoot a 21" barrel with no ill effects. Most of what I hear from shooters with long barrels is how they "point better" than shorter but I don't find that to be the case.

Head out to a skeet range. Always in season and no bag limit. You can do all the shooting you want. Somebody telling you about how a gun recoils or handles isn't going to mean anything compared to shooting the gun yourself.

Then you'll have to take the magazine tube off the receiver to get the spring and "plunger" (follower) out for inspection. Do a search on the site. There are a number of threads on removing the magazine tube from the receiver. It'll take some heat to loosen the factory thread locker. A heat-gun is best for that job.

The Monte's magazine tube is different from the M1/M2/etc. The forward end of the tube isn't open but contains the stud that the magazine cap screws onto. As I recall, that stud is a permanently affixed part of the tube and doesn't come out to allow the magazine spring and follower to come out that end. You'll have to remove the magazine tube from the receiver to do that. However: When you say the magazine tube "gets jammed", exactly what do you mean? It's possible that the carrier latch, which acts as the shell stop/release, is not operating properly to allow the release of a shell from the magazine. If you have dummy rounds (NEVER use live ammo to function check a firearm unless checking live-fire on the range), load the magazine and see if you can replicate the malfunction. When you pull the trigger, a shell should drop down onto the carrier. If not, take a look to see if the latch is still retaining the shell in the magazine. If so, your issue may be the interface between the trigger group and the carrier latch rather than an issue with the magazine tube/spring/follower. It may just be a matter of taking the trigger group out, giving it a thorough cleaning and making sure it is reinstalled correctly. When the trigger group is out of the receiver, inspect the carrier latch inside the receiver. Make sure it moves back and forth freely. It's spring loaded so it should return to position when you release it. It's possible there is debris behind it that might be hindering its operation.

Missing targets with what? At what distance? High, low, right, left? Have you actually sighted it in/patterned it? Made a rear sight adjustment? Laser bore sights may get you close but there's no substitute for shooting live ammo to get it dialed in.

Answer to the question posed: No

Yeah, that's about right. With the loading port facing up, push the carrier all the way down (toward the bolt). Does the leading edge (that bent downward part) clear the magazine tube completely? When the bolt is fully in battery, the protrusion on the upper right side of the carrier goes into a corresponding groove on the bottom of the bolt body. There may be an issue with that interface that isn't allowing the carrier to fully go up to clear the mag tube. That protrusion on the carrier may not be lining up with the groove on the bolt for one reason or another. You could check for that as well. Beyond that, I'd call TT and see if they have any advise. I've got 5 guns with the TT carrier and no issues. I've had pistol mag extension issues here and there and they've always been great about correcting any problems.

First of all, make absolutely certain that the bolt is fully forward and the locking head has completely rotated in-battery. An out-of-battery bolt/locking head, even just a tiny bit, will prevent the carrier from rising up enough to completely clear the magazine. Don't ride the bolt forward. Let the recoil spring send it home under its own power and then check to make sure the head has rotated fully. Then try to load it. If there's still a problem, compare the OEM carrier to the TT. They should both have the same profile. The only differences I'm aware of are the finish and the fact that there's no cut-out on the front of the TT carrier to catch your thumb as you push the shells in. It's always possible that a bad one got by their QC.

Dang. Any day now they'll be making handgun frames out of plastic. The apocalypse is near!!

Clay pigeons don't discriminate. They'll break regardless of what gun the shot comes out of. Unless you're really, really into trap competition, or you've just got more money than you know what to do with, shoot your SBE. I shoot mine for trap, skeet, sporting clays, pheasants, . . . . The trap (or skeet, or sporting clays, etc.) snobs may snicker/sneer at your "field gun" but you can shut them up fast if you hit your targets.

I'm a M1/M2 guy and don't shoot the Nova. However, your problem sounds suspiciously like the "Benelli Click" malady that vexes us semi-auto guys sometimes. More times than not, the issue comes down to the locking head not rotating completely into battery when the bolt goes forward. Looking at the schematics of the Nova bolt assembly, it appears that its locking head also rotates slightly to lock up the lugs into the barrel extension. The rotation is very slight but if it doesn't fully rotate the firing pin will not make contact with the primer. On the M1/M2 platforms, you can look at the position of the extractor to confirm complete rotation. If the locking head hasn't fully rotated, the extractor will be near the center of the ejection port. If the locking head has fully rotated, the extractor will be slightly above center of the ejection port. Locking head NOT fully rotated: Note the position of the extractor Locking head fully rotated: Again, this is only conjecture on my part. Unless you're greasing up the firing pin (DO NOT) that may be hindering forward momentum when cold, it MAY be that you're not moving the forend forward with enough force to fully rotate the locking head. In other words, don't baby it. That's what some would do with their M1/M2 bolt; press the release button and ride the bolt home. In many cases, letting the bolt forward under the power of the recoil spring ended their "Benelli Click". Something to consider, since nothing else has worked as of yet.

XS makes a replacement Big Dot front sight but you'll still have to use it with the rear ghost-ring. http://www.xssights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=999480&CAT=8264 And yeah, the HiViz version is tiny and ineffective.

Limbsaver https://www.limbsaver.com/product/precision-fit-recoil-pad/

GGG and Briley use the OEM benelli latch. They just drill/tap it and install their oversized button. Personally, I prefer the Nordic button. It's round and less likely to spin the underlying knob if bumped. The only issue is that you have to do your own d/t. It's easy to do if you have a small drill press.

The button on the carrier latch is a press-fit. Looks like yours wasn't completely pressed in. They're probably put together by an assembly line machine and sometimes things don't go together exactly right. I've had a couple that would rotate but never had one break completely off like that. As much as it sucks, sometimes things, even new ones, break. I'd say that's a Benelli issue rather than Briley. I'd give Benelli a call. They may send you a new latch or they may request you send the receiver in.