truckcop

Not nearly enough information. Stuck where? There's nothing for the bolt to stick on unless you pulled the trigger after letting the bolt come forward. If so, the link may be hung up on the hammer not allowing the bolt to come out of the receiver. Have you taken the trigger group out?

Unless someone has modified it, M1 recoil pads are screwed on. You should notice a couple of tiny holes at each end of the recoil pad. Put a drop of oil on the tip of a medium sized phillips screwdriver (for ease of inserting into the rubber pad), run it in one of the holes and start feeling around until it seats on the screw head. Start turning counter-clockwise. Repeat at the other end. Oh yeah. That "solid rod" that holds the buttstock on? That's the recoil spring tube.

Sorry. I couldn't resist. Yeah, I'm an ass. Otherwise, I got nuthin'.

I wouldn't really say this gun has "collectible" value, fired or not. You would only probably get the going rate of 650 to 800 bucks, MAYBE more from someone in a ban state. I know they're listed for more on GunBroker, etc., but I don't know if they're actually getting more. I've seen some listed for months without going anywhere. I've bought used/new ones like yours for around 700 over the last couple of years. Now days, the ones that are getting the higher prices are the field guns with 21 inch barrels as starter guns for 3-gun competition. Does it have a two-piece magazine tube or a single, full length tube? That matters to some. The difficulty with the older one piece tube is that you have to remove it from the receiver to replace the spring. I've got one of those but I've never removed the mag tube and it's still going strong with the original spring.

Raising the rear sight will raise the point of impact. If he wants to lower the point of impact he would lower the rear sight. If the rear sight is as low as it will go and the round is still impacting higher than the point of aim, any further adjustment would have to come by raising the front sight. It also begs the question posed above: Why are you sighting it in at 100 yards?? The short barrel/sight radius combined with the higher sights (you said Tactical so I assume it has ghost rings) are more conducive to shorter range sight-in.

On my defensive shotguns I check buckshot patterns at 7, 15, and 25 yards. For most buckshot loads, we have found that 15 yards is about the limit for consistently getting all pellets within the target area. One of my M1's will get them all in @ 25 yards when using the low recoil flite control Federal LE13200. I start to get flyers beyond that. Interestingly enough it's a 14" entry gun and cycles that load with no problem. Our recruit academy guns are 870's with 18" barrels and the qual course is fired at 15 yards. With the older pre-flite control LE13200 and other brands of buckshot, depending on the gun, there were usually some flyers for every shot. When we went to the flite control load that went away completely.

Personally, I'm still working on that. Mine is only a few weeks old. I haven't yet given up on the Federal. It has been said that the M4 will cycle low recoil better after being fired more. I hoping for that. Others here may have other recommendations. Federal does have full-power 00 buck with the flite control wad that I plan to try in the next few days. I've heard the patterning isn't quite as good as the low-recoil but we'll see.

If you're referring to LE13200 with the flite control wad, it's an excellent load. It's the tightest patterning buckshot that I've ever used. Unfortunately, it doesn't reliably cycle through some of my M1's or my M4. Out of my 870's, nothing beats it in terms of being able to put its entire pattern on target at longer distances.

Looks like M1 to me. Receiver is flat back where it meets the buttstock rather than tapered like the M2.

Thanks for sharing, now will someone lock this 5 year old thread for crying out loud.

Waiting for pheasants. Headed to SD on 10-18.

First, go back to the dealer with the gun and compare it in minute detail to a SBEII that doesn't have this problem.

Not sure what you mean that it wobbles left and right. Do you mean is rotates on the magazine? (ok, I know it doesn't rotate all the way around. the barrel keeps it from doing that) Or is it "loose" in some other way? Make sure that all of the forend washers and retainer are in place in the forend and BEHIND the barrel hanger when the barrel is installed. I've seen folks put all of them or some of them in behind the magazine cap in front of the hanger. Or forget to put some or all of them in at all. That causes the magazine cap to be unable to sufficiently tighten down the barrel against the front of the forend causing the forend to be loose. Every time I had someone tell me they can't tighten the forend against the receiver and it's loose, that has been the problem. Not sayin' that's your issue. Just check to ensure it isn't. I've seen dealers (mostly employees who don't know what they're doing when they're putting the gun together) send guns out like this.

Zeke, check your PM's

Mine don't. It is held out far enough from the receiver that there's no contact.

I use both, mostly for three-gun but I've got them on my skeet/hunting guns as well. Never had the GGG rotate. It's made a little better in terms of attachment of the pad. They machine a groove in the back of the pad and corresponding "tongue" in the factory release mechanism. The pad on the Tac2 is slightly different than the GGG and there's only a direct drill and tap into the factory part and the attachment screw is probably smaller than the GGG. I use blue loctite on each and have never had a problem with either one. I would probably prefer a smaller pad (both are about the same size), something along the lines of the one from Taran Butler. I could always take and saw and file to them but have never really felt an overwhelming need to do so since they work just fine as they are. The GGG always seems to be "out of stock" from them and the Tac2, while the site said "in stock" when I ordered them, was not really and it took a while for me to get them. But again, I have nothing bad to say about either one.

"Unless you can get one direct from Benelli (who may be getting them from Nordic), or on an exchange from one if the more well known 3-gun gunsmiths like those I've listed below... nope." Incorrectamundo. Both of these include all the parts, ready to install. GGG: http://www.gggaz.com/benelli-tactical-bolt-release-pad.html Tac2: http://shop.tac2.com/product.sc?productId=1

Take a look at this. It might be helpful: http://www.briley.com/benelli12gauge.aspx

I thought the one on the right might be a M1/SBE 1 choke style since it's made for barrel threads right at the muzzle. That thought went away when I compared the M1 to a M2. The one on the left below is a flush mounted M2 choke. The one in the middle is a flush mount for the M1 and the one on the right is an extended choke for the M1. Not even close to what you have. They're a lot shorter overall. Check out a choke manufacturer's (Briley, Trulock, etc.) website to see what they have available for the different Benelli models. That might get you going in the right direction. I got nuthin' else. Sorry.

Off what, exactly?

If you're only loading and shooting one shell at a time it will probably work OK. I've seen them used in trap singles but I can't really think of any other reason to use one.

The backing/mounting plate on each is aluminum. The shell holder on the Side Saddle is plastic that is slightly undersized relative to the shotgun shell and it is a friction fit. The shell holder on the Mesa is aluminum and there's an internal elastomer band that holds the shell.

In my case, in addition to the rapid access to additional ammo, the side saddle provides me a very quick reload on an open bolt when necessary. We run a man on man match and I've beat my usual nemesis more times than not based strictly on the reload-to-chamber speed. As a lefty, when the bolt locks back, all I have to do is reach up with my support hand, pull a shell out of the side saddle and quickly slap it in the open port, close the bolt and fire. A one-at-a-time reload to the magazine from the side saddle would be slower than pulling 3-4 shells out of a belt mounted caddy. The immediate access to get one in the chamber with an open bolt quickly is probably the biggest advantage to having the side saddle.

Here are pics of the Mesa/M1. Improper fit. Didn't match the contour of the receiver and if you pushed it down to where the contours were close, the mounting hole for the trigger group pin was nowhere near the right place. Their mounts for the M4 might be better but I don't have an M4.

Been using a Side Saddle on a M1 for close to 20 years now, primarily for competition. Rapid source for reloading? Yes. Easy breezy to install. Punch out trigger group pin, replace with screw/pin from kit, install backing plate (one small nut), install shell holder (6 small screws), and you're done. Just make sure you don't overtighten the trigger group screw/pin, which could cause cycling problems. That's really the only concern. Otherwise, I've never had problem 1 with mine, either in the function of the device itself or causing problems with the gun working correctly. I tried a Mesa Tactical for the M1 without a rail but despite what the copy says, the contour of their backing plate was not flush with the receiver which put too much pressure on the trigger group pin replacement. Side Saddle: