tucker301

CS is the exact opposite of pretty bad, at least in my own experiences anyway. My R1 had a cracked stock and it was sent in for repairs. While they had it, I asked them to look at the safety, which I had converted to LH. I had it working correctly, but there was a rubber detent that I had botched and subsequently removed. Its purpose, as far as I could tell, was to silence the "snap" of the safety. They fixed the safety and replaced the stock. I have had a couple of other dealings with them and they have always been top notch in dealing with me. As for the R1, I'm still debating whether or not to keep it or to sell it and try one of the new Brownings. I like the Browning's hinged magazine floorplate and a few other features. The R1 is a breeze to clean and I have had good accuracy and no hang-ups with it. Perhaps I should leave well enough alone and keep the R1 The CS phone number is one this site at the top of the main page in red. Quoting, "THE FORUMS ARE NOT A CONDUIT TO CUSTOMER SERVICE. ALL CUSTOMER SERVICE QUESTIONS AND CONCERNS SHOULD BE DIRECTED TO CUSTOMER SERVICE VIA PHONE OR EMAIL (301-283-6981). DO NOT POST CUSTOMER SERVICE QUESTIONS IN THE FORUMS."

Never liked him. Of course, the last bass fisherman I liked was Virgil Ward, so there's something more to it than just his general BS and his stupid laugh.

Yes. I converted mine myself when I got the rifle. Then, when I sent it to Maryland for some other work, Benelli checked it over and tweaked it for me. I didn't quite get the rubber detent back right and they fixed it for me at no charge. It's not an easy operation and is best left to the pros. Forget e-mail. Call Benelli CS and ask them if they will still perform the service free of charge. You'll have to pay shipping.

Assuming you're asking about current production and not legacy models, I believe the answer would be yes.

Sounds good indeed. I'm tired of having wary birds come in and hang up at 50-60 yards. I'm going to use my 22-250 this year. 100% of the load can strike a 1/2" circle at 100 yards 100% of the time.

Did he give you the rebate voucher, or did he keep it for himself?

garren, That R2-FL is awesome!

Don't forget that this is the driest time of the year in most areas. Indoor humidities can drop quite low, and this is not good for fine woods. A little TLC in the form of a quality lemon oil will go a long way this time of year. Got a synthetic? Then why are you reading this?

Use two shipping tubes and ship "gun parts" in two separate shipments. I use UPS. DO NOT mark the exterior of the boxes as to indicate the contents. If the waybill requires a description, mark it as "gun parts".

Details? How long has the tube been in this gun? Is it partially unscrewed or all the way in? Now the generic information: The absolute smartest thing to do is to take it to a competent gunsmith and pay his fee. Typically around $35. Don't want to be smart? Then keep reading. Either of the following methods could damage a film camo finish, so you've been warned. Unload the gun, remove the barrel from the action and soak the muzzle in a can of penetrating oil for several days. Make sure the container has a sufficient amount of oil to completely cover the barrel as deep as the choke is recessed. Kroil is generally recommended as the best oil to use. Use a proper fitting wrench and try to work the choke back and forth in small increments. If this does not work try letting it soak several more days. Heat applied to the choke area can be of help. Never get the barrel so hot that you cannot touch it with your hand for several seconds. Do not use a hammer of any kind to try and “tap” it. Soaking and low heat will get most frozen chokes out. Be patient. Still no luck? A properly fitting easy out may do the trick, but by now you're wishing you'd gone to the gunsmith to begin with. [ 02-21-2006, 06:38 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

I like iahonkerhunter's recipe a lot, but the lingering scar on my chest reminds me of how wrong it would be for me

Each time I make something like this, I wing it. So no two are ever quite alike. This batch had two breast fillets, new potatoes, carrots, an onion, 1/2 cup? of orange juice, tbsp? garlic powder, white pepper, black pepper, celery, cup? of Duplin Hattera Red (drank the rest while I watched the race), and maybe some other spices and stuff I tossed in there. Cooked for about 5 hours, took the breasts out and sliced them, hit them with a spike type tenderizer (fork would work too), and dropped them back in for another hours or so.

We enjoyed crock pot goose yesterday and it was pretty darned good too. When it was 3/4 done, I pulled the whole breasts out and sliced them into about 1/4" thick slabs, then dumped them back in. They soaked up all the juices from the other ingredients and were tender and tasty.

You can shoot any size steel shot through modified or larger tubes. You don't need an extended tube, but a lot of us prefer them.

This dammed forum is beginning to be the best comedy site around [ 02-20-2006, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Bill's thinking about it, isn't he? [ 02-20-2006, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

You don't have to register in order to be able to read anything and everything here, so that's not making any sense at all. Wait, you're not returning, so you won't be reading this anyway.

garren, Since you're partly responsible, what do you recommend for cleaning beer off of my LCD?

Xtrema2

Skip both and go for the Xtrema2.

Perazzi is good on clays, but not very effective on lawyers

Remove the barrrell and press the bolt rearward about a 1/4", then pull it out.

Cool cowboy!

Then you are in for a big disappointment. The SBEII kicks plenty.

M2 Slug Gun