tucker301

Looks like a single **** is a bad thing, but plural cocks are OK. I've noticed this to be the trend in the porn industry as well.

Not the finish, but it does represent what is wearing down

I've found it easiest to remove once the bolt assembly has been removed from the receiver. It comes out with a firm tug with finger and thumb.

garren has already posted a link to a photograph of the new cap earlier in this thread. Mine looks like his. As he has clarified, the spring tension cap is to be tightened until it bottoms out. All the way down.

It's a common practice in marketing a new item to create a pent up demand prior to distribution. In addition to feeling out the market, it allows for a higher selling price out of the gate.

[ 10-12-2005, 05:24 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

That was ****ing hard to read with all the ****ing *'s. But credit to FN_FAL, the ****** is right. My fist trigger job was on a Remington pump rifle years ago. Went too ****ing far and it ended up firing every time pumped the ************! Pump-o-****ing-matic

You should always re-sight the weapon when switching loads. That's true even if you are just switching brands that are otherwise the same bullet weight. The ComforTechs are pretty scarce right now from what I can tell, so you might have some trouble getting your hands on one. If there's a nearby range or local gun club, you may get some opportunities to actually test fire some weapons. I'm sure the locals would be glad to help you in any way they can. I'd have no problems letting you fire mine, but it's a long way to VA. Give those managed recoils a try. It's your cheapest gamble anyway.

I can tell from that post that you're feeling quite ****y this evening, aren't you? Here's a 3/4" ****. /crazyhair blushes [ 10-10-2005, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

I can't believe a gun forum just bleeped out a word which describes the setting of the firing mechanism by compressing of the hammer spring and readying the weapon for firing. Also see male bird, and Ron Jeremy. [ 10-10-2005, 06:46 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Liability concerns prevent me from posting a full set of instructions, but I can tell you that the R1's trigger pull can be greatly be improved upon. It takes a decent bit of mechanical knowledge or intuition, and a few common tools. Mine now breaks at a comfortable and safe 64 oz. It used to be somewhere around a brick and a half. The first thing you'll need to do is to remove the trigger group assembly from the receiver. Once you have it out, carefully **** the mechanism and pull the trigger. It helps to hold the hammer back and let it travel in small increments. Pay careful attention to how the parts interact, and which surfaces work against each other. There should be two particular points of contact which will enlighten you as to where to apply your efforts. You'll also see where the trigger creeps. Although not much can safely be done about the creep, it does at least allow you to see what's going on and when the creep comes to the end of travel. Knowing this when shooting the R1 should help you with your technique. It's almost like a two stage trigger. If you mess around with it enough, you'll notice that the return sping on the trigger accounts for about 24 oz. of the total pull weight. I DO NOT recommend trying to shorten or modify this spring, or any other springs, in any way whatsoever! Work patiently, diligently, and test, test, test as you go. Mine took about an hour to get it to where I wanted it. From the pictured items, you should figure out that polishing is a large part of the improvement process. Remove metal only at YOUR OWN RISK! Do not PM me for more information. If you don't understand what you're doing, then don't do it! Take it to a professional.

That pad should also fit the SBEII.

I received my spring tension cap today, and I like the way it fits much better. We'll see how it does at the range. Once again, Benelli CS has proven to be top-notch! Thanks to garren, Paula and Jim

Have you tried these?

I would not recommend the R1, strictly on its claims of reduced recoil. My 30-06 kicks every bit as much as my Browning BAR ever did. Have you tried the managed recoil loads in the 30-06? If you prefer a semi-auto, have a look at the Browning BAR in .270 WSM. The recoil will be considerably less than the heavier 30 caliber weapons, but still deliver enough energy for the larger deer species. If you'd like a more accurate weapon, I can't say enough good things about the Savage bolt action rifles. You might also want to look at the Savage Striker pistols, which are handguns, but are more accurate than many rifles. Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but I admire your resolve to continue hunting.

I encourage others to file similar complaints. All the information you need is provided above.

While I agree in spirit with Commando that such things should not be, in reality sometimes the best made products could use a simple tweak. And the fact that you can do the tweak yourself in a matter of seconds vs. Benelli doing it in a matter of weeks... Well, it just makes sense, doesn't it?

http://www.benelliusa.com/forums/ultimatebb.php/topic/1/2141.html#000000

Reporting back on the Dead Zone tubes: The pass tube seems too tight for most of my uses. I took a woodie Thursday AM at about 40 yards using the decoy tube and he folded easily. Other shots on woodies and mallards have ranged from 10 yards to 45 yards, and the D tube seems throw the Kent Fasteel 3's beautifully. I shot a test blast on a stump in the water at about 35 yards and the one thing I noticed is that the shot string seems notably shorter with these tubes than it does with the factory chokes. All of the shot seems to arrive on the target and nearly the same time. This means my aim has to be better and accurate leading is more critical, but if I do my part, more shot will be delivered on the target at once. Limits of woodies Thursday and Staurday, and a few mallards (one banded) thrown in for good measure. I like the Primos D tube, and the P tube may make a good turkey choke. I'll test later for that.

Unless you're just crazy about wood finishes (and cracked stocks, worn finishes, etc.), synthetic is the best option. Got mud on my SBEII's stock yesterday and simply held it over the side of the boat and let the lake water clean it off for me. Given that you're primarily hunting deer and turkey, the 26" seems the logical choice to me. If you hunted exclusively deer and turkey, with no wingshooting or clays, I'd say 24".

[ 10-12-2005, 05:18 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Admins: Please leave this one so we can reference it in our abuse complaints to the hosting service. __________________________________ inetnum: 82.165.192.0 - 82.165.199.255 netname: SCHLUND-SHARED descr: Schlund + Partner AG country: US admin-c: UI-RIPE tech-c: UI-RIPE remarks: NCC#2004115007 remarks: in case of abuse or spam, please mailto: [email protected] rev-srv: nsa.schlund.de rev-srv: nsa2.schlund.de rev-srv: ns.ripe.net status: ASSIGNED PA mnt-by: SCHLUND-MNT source: RIPE # Filtered _________________________________ Send an e-mail to [email protected] One of your clients has repeatedly posted SPAM to an online forum. See http://www.benelliusa.com/forums/ultimatebb.php/topic/1/2150.html The SPAM targets the URL http://direct2deal.com/ which resolves to the IP 82.165.198.33. This IP is assigned to Schlund + Partner AG. This should be a violation of your terms of use agreement and grounds for termination of hosting. Please do what you can to stop the spamming of the above forums immediately. Thank you [ 10-09-2005, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

I'd prefer the 28" for hunting.

Yes. Yes, that's the one.

There is a raised tab on the end of the carrier. This tab is supposed to fit into a slot on the bottom of the bolt, but on some guns it will hang slightly when pushed straight up. I had the same problem when I first got my SBEII, and I kept having to push the shell to one side slightly to get the carrier to go up all the way. I finally fixed it through a combination of carefully bending that tab inward and wearing it in a bit through repeated loadings. When unloading, use the silver release button on the trigger guard to allow another shell to cycle through from the magazine. [ 10-08-2005, 05:24 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]