tucker301

No problem. Glad to help.

http://www.calssportingarmory.com/BenelliAccessories.htm

I've been using an MTM guide designed for bolt action rifles. This can be used only if the barrell/receiver assembly has been removed. BTW, if you research earlier posts, you'll find some helpful tips on cleaning and tweaking this rifle.

The nova's stock and receiver are integrated into one piece, so my initial thought would be that it would not be possible.

The Nova's trigger assembly is not built to be adjustable. Tampering with it can void your warranty and possibly render the gun unsafe. If you think it's too heavy, have it measured by a competent gunsmith and follow his advice.

To be honest, the slide release is a bit clumsy because you have to reach around and under to get to it with the left hand. You should look at the Nova and a Browning BPS, at least before making a final decision. With bottom ejection and tang safety, the BPS is ambidexterous.

I'm a lfty and I bought my nova last year. I have shot a right-handed Remington 870 for years and I'm accustomed to using right-handed guns in general. I have no problems with the nova. The safety can be converted for left hand use fairly easily, but if you don't feel comfortable doing the conversion yourself, then your shop should be able to do it for you. If they can't, then Benelli certainly can, although you'll probably miss a lot of this season's usage while waiting for them to get it back to you. The ejection is forward and outward, so there's no problem there.

I use tinyurl (free) for any long ones like that. http://tinyurl.com/

I looked high and low and came up with nothing. Being a southpaw sucks when it comes to buying firearms.

When I say "locked" I mean that the bolt is closed and the action will not open unless the weapon is either fired or the release is pressed. With the bolt closed and "locked" in place, my Nova's slide will shift about 1/8" forward and back, BUT the action remains closed. If yours is doing differently, ie: opening the bolt or shifting excessively, then there is a problem and your dealer needs to attend to it. See the contact page on this site to get in touch with Benelli directly, if the dealer refuses to address the problem. http://www.benelliusa.com/customer-service/contact.tpl

Check those measurements again. Mine has 1/8" play when locked. 1/4 to 1/2 seems excessive.

The Nova's stock and receiver are integrated and one cannot be separated from the other.

It would involve reducing the friction between the sear and the hammer. This means you'd remove the metal between the two surfaces. Although I have done this on some rifles, I wouldn't recommend doing so on a shotgun, since MOA accuracy is not as critical. Remove too much metal and the weapon becomes unsafe and more succeptible to accidental discharge due to external shock (dropping, or just rough handling and transport). If you feel the pull is excessive, take it to a gunsmith and have the pull measured. Ask the gunsmith his/her opinion before going any further. One stroke of the file would void your warranty and relieve Benelli of any and all liability regarding safety.

I just saw and replied to your pm. I agree on the "violin case" comment wholeheartedly. In fact, mine's stuffed away in the attaic while I search for a more useful case. Here's the crux of my response to the pm: Use Burris one-piece base for Browning Bar. Add Burris Signature rings, and get the Burris Pos-Align inserts to adjust for the elevation offset. http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/712472 I've spent a bunch of cash searching for a good mount, and I'm probably going to spend just a bit more to get the setup mentioned above, because I'm not pleased that my scope is about four clicks from being maxed out on elevation. If you want a QR system, you may want to stick with the Picatinny mount and add Burris or Leupold QR rings to that. My R1 buddy, phenom101 says the QR rings are great on the factory rail. I'll have to get my case out of the attic and see if there is an extra space for an unmounted scope in there. Good luck with the upcoming season!

Mine's the 30-06. I'm in VA and our whitetails go maybe 180-200 absolute max. I'm happy with the Remingtons, so I dobt I'll try much else. I used to do a lot of handloading when I shot competitively, but I've been out of that for a while and factory ammo has improved considerably since then. If I try anything else it will be PMC. They used to make some ****ed good stuff when I was shooting groundhogs with a .243 Varmit Special.

I'm pleased to report that my R1 has redeemed itself at the range! I found the Leupold scope base and re-mounted the 3-9 X 50 using Leupold base and rings. Although the base required a shim in the rear to allow for vertical adjustment, the look, feel, and qulaity of the Leupold mount is far superior to the picatinny rail mount furnished with the R1. Following suggestion and ideas from fellow R1 owner phenom101, I returned to the range with a newfound optimism. The Remington 150 gr AccuTips performed much better than the Hornady and Federal. The groups tightened up to about 1". I also believe that tightening the barrel lock follower two clicks beyond the factory index improved things considerably. The tip about placing an o-ring under the forearm cap screw also proved to be worthwhile. No problems with it working loose during firing anymore! I sincerely hope Benelli is taking notes on these "beta" tests we are perfoming, and hopefully will be incorporating some of these tweaks into the next generation of R1's. I was just about ready to take my lump$ and trade my R1 back in on the new Browning, but after this positive experience on the range, the R1 is this season's primary deer rifle.

It's been one heck of a long time since I had my 58, but I believe it goes something like this. Pull the bolt handle out. It's retained by a spring-loaded detent. Remove the forearm and barrel and the bolt should slide out the front along with the piston and slide bars. Be mindful of O ring placement.

Thanks! I also received one private response with the same information. I picked up one yesterday and installed it last evening. According to my laser boresighter, I'm going to need a shim in the rear of the base. The private response indicated that this my be necessary. I simply was not happy with the factory scope rail and the Millet rings (purchased). The Leupold mount is by far superior. I always use an alignment tool and lap the rings for a perfect fit. I'll get started on a shim this weekend. I'm hoping that the improved scope mount and the Remington ammo (suggested by someone else) will get this rifle up to my standards. If not, there will be no place for it in my cabinet and it will be traded soon.

I draw your attention to this page for what should be a simple question to answer.... What is the stock number of the Leupold one piece scope base for the R1 rifle? If you can show a full-page photo of the darned thing, it shouldn't be too hard to share with the growing number of R1 owners this little tidbit of information. Acording to the FAQ's, which ambiguously may or may not apply to rifles, the Weaver # is 93. This crosses to a Leupold number 53056 (matte). Problem is, I have one of those, and it's not even close to fitting my R1. So, fess up, Benelli. I can't afford to try every Leupold base number until I find the one in the photograph.

There is no "right" or wrong gun. That's why Benelli and others make a variety of models, including o/u's, pumps, and semi-autos. They also offer traditionalists the look and feel of walnut as well as the synthetics of the modern world. If you're looking at 870's, then compare the Nova. I've got an 870 that I've used since 1978, and it has never needed a single part. I have shot it thousands of times and have taken ducks, doves, deer, quail, squirrels, rabbits, and turkeys with it. I've got a Nova that I purchased last year because I wanted to step up to the 3.5" magnums for deer and turkey. The radical new design of the Super Black Eagle II are very appealing to me. If I had to choose a semi-auto, I'd definitely give that one a whirl. But again, that's me. Go to a well-stocked dealer and spend some hands-on time with several makes and models, then choose what appeals to you. [ 09-19-2004, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Another excellent suggestion, regarding the inside of the forearm! Thanks again. Maybe Benelli will will put us on the R&D payroll Your posts have been tremendously helpful. Glad you're here. I was beginning to think this forum was all about M2's and SBE's.

Thanks for the tips on the ammo and the rubber gasket! I never thought of doing that, yet it's such a simple fix. I had to break out my Dremel tool to get the gas system components properly cleaned! Sheez! Other calibers: 25-06 would be great. I'd also like to see them match up to Browning on the WSM's. If the R1 were offered in the 300 WSM, that's the one I would have bought. The other night, while doing my second cleaning, I noticed that the barrel lock follower easily tightened about two clicks past the red index mark. I'm going to test again with it in that position. Maybe that will help with the accuracy as well. And finally, YES...**** YES! The piston flopping around on reassembly is annoying!

They manufactured cheap firearms for Sears from roughly 1888 - 1914. Even in good condition, the firearm wouldn't be worth much at all.