The_Gun_Guy

Oh no were too late!

They do that a lot. Take the Nova PUmp for example. You are only paying 80$ for the gun and the action but the barrel is worth 220$ and that isn't really proportional to any level.

I can't use synthetic stocks. I seem to not be able to put my head in the same place each time because the synthetic is durable but uncomfortable and I can't find that spot where i sighted it in if its not the perfect comfy position. does anyone know what I'm saying? but what I would like to see is a .416 rem mag on an R1

I'll have to try that tungsten plated shot if it really doesn't leave a mess.

thats a spelling error the "R" is silent. and browning has been in a sense "loosing there touch" benelli makes the best recoil semi autos. Although many have conflicted with the performance of m1 super 90 to the perofrmance of the remington 1100. because people are aparently pulling the trigger faster than .13 seconds and the hammer follows the action and cuases it not to strike the firing pin and not fire, I think they need to SLOW DOWN.

With recoil operated shotguns it works well to break them in by for the first 3 times you use it use high brass in between regular rounds this will keep the spring working for normal and powerful rounds. just use regular oil for the range and use oil with weather guard for the field and if you want to get real specific read the mantainence section of the manual.

I know it is very reliable, I meant that It could in a sense "crap out on you" by ruining the barrel or choke. It also did leave a permenent stain in one of my guns.

I think, ok, what conversation?

If it was me I would bring some #2 steel as a seperated load it you want to blast them at close range. The main reason I like this load is because it wont't leave as much shot left behind in the game. also you will need to bring 2 rounds to how many birds you expect to get just in case. have fun and trust me from experiance, Don't forget to bring the tags, and don't leave them on kitchen table!

Alright If you mean what I think you mean "it's not fitt'n to be said" children could read that later! was that really necessary? If that is not what you meant than I am sincerely sorry and pretend that the text isn't really there.

A two stage trigger is when a trigger is made much, much less sensitive and helps people that have a problem with the trigger not really being smooth. they call it two stage because the trigger in a sense has two stages after the operation. the first stage is kind of like a starter it doesnt casue anything to happen for a cm and you hit the second stage where the effort slightly increases and the after you are pulling that for a while the hammer will go. I like it because it makes it so that you arent really causing the igneition with a single tap. it makes the trigger pull longer so that you can get used to it as you go. It's really good for begining shooters or people that can't seem to gain control of their finger pulling the trigger as they try and aim. So it might not be the best choice for you, It's just the only option that I could think of when you said it had a hard trigger and I know what you mean. but I don't know if you can switch it to be like a normal gun's trigger because of the strangeness of the mechanical parts. If I was you I would just practice and try to get used to it. That way when your using a nice semi-auto it will feel evan more comfortable than normal.

yeah .640 is pushing it. and be careful with that heavy shot and about the trigger take it in to a gunsmith and they can change it to a two stage trigger. I am lucky enough to have my next door neighbor being a gunsmith and he switched mine to a two stage trigger. He doesn't charge me for simple serveces so I don't know how much it will cost. I love it now that its a two stage its much smoother and crisper pull. [ 04-27-2005, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: The_Gun_Guy ]

I have always questioned non-lead shot in full chokes. but does that leave a nasty mess in your barrel after you test fired those? and If you don't mind what exactly were your results from that testing?

thats kind of risky, isn't it flammable? and is it really reliable. I only use choke lube for competetion because I don't want any malfunctioning when I'm on the spot. my barrel will reach about 300 or so degrees and I nee d to be sure that the oil in the barrel is not going to catch fire, and still protect my barrel.

I see. for that operation i like to use hoppe's elite gun cleaner. If you use it right the oil will drip out with the fouling and you wont have to scrub anything. Another thing that I found that is particularly intreaging is the outers bore foamer, you have to wait a long time for it to soak but it has surprisingly deep cleaning for a "quick clean miracle product" as long as you let all the foam bubbles pop all the fouling just comes right out.

They could at least label it rifle catagory or something; thats what they did at there website.

if you can find it you can get one that has a rifled barrel already attatched for sabot slugs. you will get better accuracy with that.

what's "aslo"

I have used birchwood&casey for all of my shotgun life and It cost 6$ for a 5cm half-squeezed tube Does anyone know a of a cheaper or come with a decent amount of lube?

This is not a joke? [ 04-26-2005, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: The_Gun_Guy ]

I also endeavor to have my name scattered abroad the forums.

NEVER I don't want to live a day past 40!

no those are the days that I go shooting and after cleaning the guns the fumes from the oil get to me.

bushnell aye, Yeah I like their scopes too. But I saw some nikon rangefinders that say they can go as accurate as 1 yard off at the most. does that evan matter when hunting big game?

I like to use a O/U with a imp cyl on top and a IM on the bottom so I always have a fail safe just in case I wait too long.