Duggan

I told you Kip, this is only the beginning of the flood of customers you will receive if you bring these stocks to market in any sufficient quantity. Godspeed.

If I was to buy a "hunting" shotgun, this would be a tough choice indeed. I've shot both, and both were impressive. If I remember correctly, the extrema2 had a rubberized type grip on the handguns that I remember really liking while shooting it. I could be wrong though. I haven't shot either gun in ages.

I seriously, seriously doubt it. Why would they offer a combat shotgun in anything smaller than 12 gauge? Where are you seeing this? The m4 page only shows 2 possible configurations, black and desert, both in 12 gauge ...

The new site looks awesome, it's just a bit slow and some of the pages are reluctant to load, I had to stop and reclick quite a few links to get the pages to load.

Cool. I never doubted you.

It's almost surely just the flash/picture. If it's really bothering you, ask for another picture.

SBE II LH for sure

There really is only 2 finishes to choose from if you want a "finished" tube ... the other 2 I don't know why you would buy, unless you wanted to finish them yourself or something. So what it comes down to is ... is your m4 black, or is it tan?

Get the m2. Its been like 2 weeks we are overdue for another m2 "omg it has recoil wtf" thread. In all seriousness get the sbe ii if you can afford it. I've wondered about the extrema as well...

No idea if it fits in a monty, you can install it yourself if you are good with small parts/have time/have patience. It took me like 2 hours to do it with 0 instructions ... people I've instructed on what to do/not do have done it in 30 minutes. If I had to do it over again I'm sure I could do the same. When you deal with small, spring loaded, hard to reach parts, and driving pins through 4 holes you have to line up, it's never going to be easy. If you have someone else helping you, holding the pieces together while you line them up, hold the pin and then hammer it in, the job gets much easier. I didn't have that luxury. That sucks about not being able to import to france ...

I imagine you stick in the small end and pry it out. For what it's worth, I have never owned/used a pair of snap ring pliers, and I've always just used my cold steel knife to pry it out and my fists of steel to squash it back into the tube. I imagine similar results could be had using the bolt. I wouldn't really suggest it though ... because even though the bolt handle is very durable, it's generally a bad idea to use small gun parts as pry tools, as they can get damaged and do an inferior job compared to easier to use, more durable actual pry tools, like a screwdriver to knife.

Well, it has to happen once in awhile.

Fixed. The bolt release is from GG&G. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=26414&title=BENELLI%20BOLT%20RELEASE%20BUTTON That one doesn't list the M4 as being compatible ... but as far as I know there is only one model, and it works fine. I high recommend the GG&G bolt release, it's a true replacement part, not just a adhesive on top of the existing parts like some other units. Their bolt handle, on the other hand, is sub par. The PMT one is much better.

5) - Do not overpush. Your thumb should never enter the tube. This is where the problem comes from ... if your thumb face is perpendicular to the receiver, this cannot happen. Your thumb will hit the receiver and prevent it from happening. Keep in mind that in this position, the end of the lifter is now resting on the tip of your thumb. 6) - Pull your thumb away clean for another shell, letting the lifter down that was previously resting on the tip of your thumb. With this method, the lifter has no chance of crushing your nail/joint when you pull out, as your thumb was never in the tube to begin with. The video showing this technique is here: Now, this technique can be altered to allow you to hold multiple shells in your hand for faster loading, but the principle remains the same. Keep your thumb rigid, straight, and perpendicular to the receiver. Move your hand as a solid motion, don't bend your thumb at it's lowest joint. Stop pushing once the shell is into the tube, as you do not want your thumb entering the tube. I hope this helps people out, and that this thread can be referrenced for people who complain of sore thumbs due to improper loading -Duggan [ 08-18-2006, 02:44 AM: Message edited by: Duggan ]

3) - While still pressing the shell up into the lifter with your index finger on the front, put your thumb flush as possible against the lower half of the shell. Start to push the shell into the tube, keeping your thumb face perpendicular to the receiver and flush with the lower half of the shell. 4) - Push the shell all the way in, letting off the shell with your index finger to make way for your thumb. Again, keep your thumb straight and your thumb face perpendicular to the receiver; you want to keep your entire thumb rigid for the duration of the push. The idea is to make the shell move, while keeping your thumb rigid, acting as an extension of your arm. Your entire arm pushes the shell in, it is just your thumb that contacts the shell.

01-09-09 - This is a repost of a post I made over 2 years ago, with fixed links and pictures. Enjoy. -Duggan _______________ How to AVOID "Benelli Thumb" and live happily ever after! Due to this being a common question/issue, I decided to make a thread detailing how best to avoid the legendary "benelli thumb". This is a technique that has worked for me and many others, and I have taken pictures and a video to supplement the written "instructions". The method is as follows: 1) - Grab a single shell with your thumb, index and middle finger. I find it easiest to have my index finger at the end of the shell, my thumb in the middle, and using the side of my middle finger as support. 2) - Push the shell up into the lifter, but not INTO the tube, holding it in place with your index finger. Your index finger should be on the front of the shell, up against the receiver, and the shell should be snug up against the follower. The lifter is totally pushed up at this point, and your thumb is not really doing anything yet.

There is no 1107. There is the regular 11707, the desert camo 11717, and older models were 11701 and 11703. I think the 11701 was the american flag version, the 11703 is the 11707 without the milled recoil tube to allow a collapsible stock to collapse. Most any new model you'll find will be a 11707 or 11717. All the other models have been discontinued for years. If any of this info is wrong, I'm sure someone will be along shortly to yell at me, but I beleive this is all correct.

It's almost surely your follower, or your spring has too many coils and thus takes up too much room when compressed. Either your follower is too big, or your spring is too big. The tube is not the problem.

If you use a heatgun, the stock tube will come out with no problem. It will not be damaged. There will be some loctite residue on the stock tube and on the threads in the receiver. You can leave this one, or clean it off. It matters not. You can then put on your full length tube with no loctite if you want to constantly switch out your tube. I, and many others, have not loctited our tubes into the receiver for this reason as well as others. All you will have to do when you change tubes is move the snap ring spring retainer over from the end of one tube to the end of the other. This is easily done with snap ring pliers. Then move over the spring and follower, and you are good to go. So, the answer to all your questions is yes you can reuse, yes the +7 tube will be removable, and no you don't have to ever use loctite again if you don't want to. I've had no issues with an unloctited tube. Also, you should keep the springs with their proper tubes ... the stock tube and stock spring, and the carriercomp tube and carriercomp spring. It is much longer than the stock one, and has 10 or so more coils, thus making it too large to function in a 5 round tube I beleive. -Duggan

I'll see what I can do about rehosting them. This post is over 2 years old, so it's not surprising that they're down, as they were publicly hosted. If I have time tonight I'll reupload them to my current server.

Absolutely. I didn't say it was hard to load the last shell, in that it required additional force to shove it into the tube compared to the others. It doesn't. It's just that once inside, it has considerably less "play" room than before, aka additional length it can be pushed in. I agree 100% that the 7th round with this tube and spring feels the same as the 5th round on the smaller tube. The last round is always going to be the hardest, but it's still quite easy to get the last round in. As always, the last round just mandates proper loading technique and force (thumb perpendicular to the receiver, I've covered this before in my "avoiding benelli thumb" posts) moreso than the previous rounds, as it takes a bit more pressure than the first rounds. But yes, I agree entirely with your green text above. Loading the 7th shell with this spring feels as it should, it's just a tighter fit once inside. I see you did your homework concerning variations in shell width, and since you used the largest shell you could find, I'm pretty confident there won't be any issues, unless someone somehow finds a freakishly large 2.75 shell batch. I'll try to get out and shoot some this weekend.

What do you mean, you people?

I just received my full length M4 spring from Kip at Carriercomp. I placed the order 3 days ago. It is the item seen and available here: http://www.shop.carriercomp.com/category.sc?categoryId=5 My initial thought upon taking the spring out of the packaging was "wow, this thing is long!". Sure enough, it is a full 9-10 inches longer than my old, "standard length", 10,500+ rounds of abuse compressed spring. My old spring never failed me, but I figured it was time to replace the weak link in the weapon before it became an issue. Onto the pics ... As you can see, quite a bit longer ... the bend in the spring is just from being shipped twisted over a few times, I'm sure it will straighten out with use and will not be an issue. I counted the number of "coils" ... the number of complete 360 degree twists of the spring. The factory +5 spring has 47 coils. The carriercomp +7 has 56.5 coils. Some of these extra coils are obviously due to the increased length, but some are also due to the additional number of "stabilizing" coils at the ends of the spring compared to the factory +5 spring. I also took a closeup of the differences between the ends of the two springs ... The Carriercomp +7 spring has a few more coils on the end of it. This would appear to be an improvement on the design, as it would perhaps help the stabilize the spring. The spring seems to be of top notch quality, which is what you would expect from a spring made by Wolff. I don't know if it's chrome silicon or what the material is, but it is very smooth and springy, much more springy than the factory +5 spring, inch for inch. When the extra springiness of the carriercomp spring per inch is multiplied by the additional 10 inches of spring, it would seem to be a "extra power" spring indeed. I put the spring into the tube ... it makes a much more scratchy noise than the factory one while being compressed. This is likely due to being unoiled, and much greater tension of the increased power spring against the tube walls. I will see if this noise is changed by oil and load/unload repetitions. Either way, not an issue, just something I noticed. I notice that when 7 rounds are loaded into the tube, the last round just BARELY makes it in. We are talking a few millimeters of play room, but noticeably less play room than with the factory +5 spring. I guess this is to be expected from a spring with nearly 10 additional coils. Overall, it looks to be a great spring and a great upgrade. There has been lots of issues and questions lately surrounding what spring is needed for an M4 with a +7 full length tube ... this spring may well be the answer to those questions. Further tests to come, obviously I haven't gotten to function test and shoot with it yet, but I will soon. For now, thanks Kip and Carriercomp for what looks to be a great addition to the M4 market! Edit:I just found out the hard way ... DO NOT perform load tests on the spring without reassembling the gun, or at least putting the barrel retaining cap back onto the end of the tube. I forgot all about it, and just blew the snap ring spring retainer and spring across the room. It caused quite a ruckus.

Meh, it's not high enough that I wouldn't be able to turn around and sell it for profit later on down the road. The collapsible stock is largely just a toy/gimmick/novelty to me ... it was fun to have one for the years I did, I used it on and off, and I miss having one to play around with, but the gun feels and shoots better with the full stock. It doesn't look as cool, or collapse obviously. I did get used to shooting in the middle position ... so if I could get another collapsible stock for cheap I'd do it, but again if I don't it's no big deal. I've already had my fun with one, I'm not one of these first time OMG I GOTTA GET IT guys (not that theres anything wrong with that, gotta start somewhere).

Ah why not, I threw a high bid and ruined the fun for everyone. Lets see who can beat me