Duggan

I'm not sure. I doubt the law enforcement agencies would do anything about it, what you'd have to maybe worry about is the family of the perpetrator somehow finding out and suing you over it ... I dunno. I'm not in law school yet.

Find me a single case of anyone being prosecuted, ever, for a 922r violation by itself. The only case I've ever found that was semi confirmed was one of a gun store owner who was manufacturing machine gun parts, and had some AKs or something being converted that didn't pass 922r. They threw the book at him, including the 922r violations, which may or may not have been dropped in the deal they inevitably made. Not much else to say. Individuals are not prosecuted for 922r violations out of the blue. But "they" want you to be scared. It's your choice.

It's not legal. But it doesn't matter.

Kind of. I don't have an m1, and thus have never tried putting my GG&G bolt handle in an m1, but it would make sense that it would work. The GG&G handle is smooth at the base lock in part of it, while the stock handle is triangular. This means the GG&G handle spins freely when inserted into the bolt, while the stock one does not. This leads me to believe that the handle is not designed for the M4, but it will fit in it all the same, just not as an anti rotational handle like the stock one. Furthermore, I'd advise against the GG&G handle. It is made of soft metal, not nearly hard enough to stand up to any type of punishment. I dropped my m4 off a table once and it landed handle side down and it bent the handle at like a 135 degree angle. Unless they've changed the metal they make their handles from, which I don't think they have, I wouldn't recommend the GG&G handle. A much better option is the Progressive Machine & Tool titanium, non rotational handle, found here. Highly recommended if you're looking for a replacement handle. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=22928&st=progressive%20handle&s= It's tough as heck in my testing thus far, is diamondblack coated, and doesn't spin. Here's a comparison of the progressive, stock, and GG&G (you can see it's still bent). You can see the flat, triangular section of the stock handle and the PMT one, while the GG&G is round. The more I think about it, the more I realize it probably wasn't made for the m4 ... it also doesn't have the stepping on the thin part of the handle that the stock and the PMT ones have. Hope this helps.

Yes. Use rifled slugs and a loose choke for best results.

Yea, they're expensive, but you get what you pay for. It's actually a pretty complex job, swapping out the bolt release pad ... it's one of the hardest mods I've ever done. Prepare for lots of cursing, weapon scratching and sore fingers if you attempt to do it yourself, like I did. I ultimately got it done, but it sucked. The end result is worth it though.

Figured I'd post my stuff here so you guys can take a look. http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=110904520 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=25&t=584600 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=23&t=584608 I was torn between whether to try and price gouge my stock, or whether to give a "deal" to somebody who needs it more than I do. I picked a middle of the road stance, moderately high buyout price and moderately low reserve price, and considering what they sometimes sell for, I think my reserve price is very reasonable. Flame on.

I don't like shotshell carriers personally, I think they add too much weight and throw off the balance, so I can't give you advice on those. If I was buying another m4, I don't think I could live without the GG&G large bolt release pad. After a full length tube, I think it's the biggest upgrade you can do to an m4. I'm also a huge fan of my new Progressive Machine & Tool titanium bolt handle. It's larger and much more aggresively textured than the standard little handle, and I find it to be much easier to handle. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=26414&title=BENELLI%20BOLT%20RELEASE%20BUTTON http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=22928&st=progressive%20handle&s= My advice though, would be to shoot your gun for a month and find out what you want to turn it into. I wouldn't go burning through cash buying accessories after only shooting my gun once.

Maybe you did see pictures of that. I think it's too high with a standard stock. Most people will agree with me. I love eotechs too.

If you're not running a collapsible stock, the eotech will be too high to use and still maintain a cheekweld. If you shoot in the middle collapsed position like I used to, it's perfect with a larue mount to raise it a bit. But if you're running a full length stock, you won't be able to use the eotech very well. It's too high. Your best options for a low mount red dot atm are these 2, IMO. http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=149 http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=68 Expensive many will say, but you get what you pay for. But you already know that. You bought an M4 as your first shotgun

Nice, sounds like a great first time. OO generally has less felt recoil than slugs, it's true. At least I always thought so. As you get better with your gun, you'll get bruised and hurt less. Keep the pad locked in tight to your shoulder, and lean forward when you shoot as much as you can comfortably.

I wasn't kidding about the gallon of breakfree edit: yea, I have some moly grease that I've used from time to time ... I dunno. I've been thinking about getting some of this stuff, it's supposedly really good, and seems to be the best of both worlds. Gun Butter: http://www.mstn.biz/index.php?option=com_joomla_store&jStore=product_info&Itemid=27&cPath=8_31&products_id=240&Itemid=59&jStoreid=3a93573f122f2c58068e2ec5657a484

Mostly breakfree. I have other oils that I've used from time to time, but I generally don't bother using them with my shotgun. I just breakfree everything, wipe it down, then add a little additional breakfree to those areas.

I'm 22 and a senior in business school, so I hardly have to fake a sick day if I want to skip my classes. I'll argue that the additonal ft-lbs of your sabot slug are due to the additional 1/8 oz of weight and have nothing really to do with being a sabot design, but it's a moot point, as sabot slugs are often offered in heavier weights than rifled slugs it seems. I hate deer for the same reason every texan I've ever talked to hates illegal immigrants ... there's too damn many of them, they cause nothing but problems, they take up natural resources, and they're just a general nuisance. Odd comparison I know ... but deer are just destructive and annoying to my existance. I don't expect you to understand. But that out of the way, well said and argued. -Duggan.

I've had multiple people ask me about this, so I figured I'd repost some pictures I took for another thread. I have about 11k through my gun, always keeping things pretty well lubricated. This is how your gun will wear in if you shoot it enough. Keep some oil on the places you see bare metal to prevent this from happening to your gun for as long as possible. It doesn't hurt anything really, but there is no reason to cause premature wear to your firearm when it can be greatly slowed by lubing up the bolt carrier a bit.

Yea I'm glad I live far enough upstate that I don't have to deal with all that ********. Albany county is bad, but not nearly as bad as where you are. I should have my pistol permit back any month now.

Apparently after extensive conversions and upgrades, they are pretty reliable and fun to shoot. They look cool. I've never shot one, only seen them. More reliable? I highly, highly doubt it.

Free Image Hosting That shows you where it will wear over time. Make sure those areas have some lube to slow down the wear.

You shouldn't need to lube any of the gas system components, retaining lugs included, or whatever you want to call them. You should keep some clp on the bolt sides and the sides of the bolt carrier, the firing pin/trigger group is not needed, but it shouldn't hurt. The object of cleaning is to remove carbon/dirt buildup and to provide lubrication on fast moving parts in order to avoid wear or at least slow down the wearing process. If you oil parts that don't need lubrication, you're just attracting buildup. It doesn't hurt to oil them, it will just be more to clean next time as debris will be attracted that otherwise would not have stuck to the parts. The main thing you should be sure to lube is just the bolt and bolt carrier group, as well as the inside of the receiver where the bolt carrier group rubs. I'll take a quick picture that should illustrate what you're trying to avoid.

I think you are mixed up. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/Gixerman1000/Mis/100_9664.jpg The piston is the piece on the bottom left. I think you're talking about something else ... did you know that the pistons come out? Or am I way off in my assessment of what you've said? But if you look at that picture, neither of those parts need to/should be lubed. Just wipe off excess buildup from time to time if there is any, and replace. Lubing them will only attract buildup.

I think it looks cool. let us know how it holds up to wear and tear.

You're not. However there's nothing stopping you from using whatever type of slug you want in your gun provided it's the right length and gauge, some will just work better than others. If you have a rifled bore and a rifled slug, I don't know how accurate it would be, but it shouldn't hurt anything. I have never tried it, as I've never personally owned a quality rifled shotgun barrel. But again, eliminating user error is key. Take your time and shoot well so your results show the slugs performance, not your shooting performance. You should get pretty good results with some brand of slug.

Nice. Do tell how it works out.

Sorry, you were just so wrong on so many things that it took awhile to prove you 100% wrong on so many points. How does it feel to be completely wrong? Does it burn under your e-skin? Good job avoiding the issue though, and starting on a personal attack of me and my family. I'll call you Barack Obama from now on. Now take your own advice and STFU and stop talking about stuff that is clearly above your thick skulled head. Go back to shooting the wrong type of slug through your gun and bragging about how pro you are, moron, rofl. And to those still talking about me hunting for some reason, how many times can I say it, 100% irrelevant. I've had my hunting license and tags since I was 18 or so, I get tags each year, never use them, and give them to friends if they need them. I am in school for 18 credits and work full time. Even if I wanted to, I wouldn't have time to hunt. I have 0 respect for deer. They eat my garden, my shrubs and my trees. I almost hit them every single night driving home from work. I know a few people that do land conservation work for the state, and they despise deer. I see no reason why I should respect deer. But back on topic. To find your perfect slug, do the following: 1) - buy 2 boxes (10 rounds) of every type of rifled slug you can find. 2) - set up a large target at 40,50 yards, whatever you want to sight in for. 3) - Shoot 3 shot groups, changing the target every 3 rounds and labeling each target as you take it down. DO NOT ADJUST YOUR OPTIC YET. So long as you are on paper, it doesn't matter where they hit, only how tight the group is. 4) - After you've shot all your ammo, you should have 3 targets per brand times however many brands you bought. Find the labeled target with the tightest pattern, and buy some more of that ammo. 5) - If you have a few brands that are close, buy some of both and duke it out between them with the same method. 6) - When you've settled on a slug that performs well, you then sight in your optic for that specific slug. If you're switching your optic after every shot or between every brand, you're wasting time and money. and of course all the regular things you need to be mindful of when sighting in a weapon ... using a bench/sandbag, pulling the trigger slowly, using the best optic you can (I'd suggest using a magnified one if you can somehow, it really makes it easier to eliminate user error from the equation and focus on letting the round perform to it's max potential.). If you've done it right, you should be able to find out which slugs work best for you, and you will have 20 or so targets to refer to when you're thinking about buying certain brands. Like you can look and see that your 2nd best shooting slug is 1/3 the price of the best shooting slug, so you can see what to buy based on that. Good luck, it's really all about shooting as much as you can and eliminating user error. I know it's a pain in the ass to change targets every 3 rounds, or at least tape your target, but it's needed to provide clear and decisive results, which is what you are looking for.