Unobtanium

I like RX over CC. The CC was too easily removed. That said, the RX is a bit difficult. Id advocate for a middle ground, but would err toward the RX.

This post offends me. You can either tell us it's a 1982 production, OR that it's 40 years old. We do not need to be forced to correlate the two. Other than that, very nice!

In a world where I can order flite control buckshot offline for $1/rd, I'd not buy range 00.

I'm squared away, now. Thank-you!

I bought a couple of the Benelli Parts units. I really like them. 1) the hole in the button is a blind hole. This keeps the base more rigid and less likely to turn in the stamped part which it is press fit into, than a through hole. 2) I didn't measure it, but the thread size appears to be about as large as the button sensibly permits. This allows more surface area for loctite or vc3 or whatever you use, to adhere. 3) the button is dome profiled. When your hand or gear passes over it, its less likely to snag or gouge. It is a perfect size to be easier to hit, but small enough not to be snag city. The circular serrations/grooves are excellent.

Oh my dude...I gave up on that in 2009ish. I even tracked down the original inventor/maker. Ive owned all but the coveted DC full Ti one you seek. Kips Ti/A2 in pvd black, the various FFTs, and now the RX. The RX is the best of them all so far, but stay tuned in the coming weeks/months for something else to consider.

What thread pattern is this? 4-40? 5-40?

Earl Pittman of IWC has responded to my inquiry regarding this change, as follows:

IWC has changed the torque spec for their mount, although I can detect no physical difference. The former spec was 40 in lb max. The new spec is 10. I personally torque to 30, using loctite 243. This is my experience and opinion only, and I am not affiliated with any company listed. My preference has been 20 in lb on the light to IWC juncture, and 30 on the mount itself. Loctite 243 on both. I believe 10 in lb to be too low.

FCD SGSO does not have the same friction modifiers BRB does. It has other good attributes, but it is not the equal of BRB in THAT regard.

I have finally managed to package a day/low/no light system in the Benelli M4. It's something I've been trying to do for the last 15 years, and finally there are enough things from all of the manufacturers to make this cohesively work! I fired 30-40 rounds of full-power buck/slug yesterday, and re-torqued this mount on the XVL2. It did not move. The wrench just clicked over. It had not loosened. Today, I shot another 50 rounds of crazy stuff like 1290fps 12 pellet 00, etc. I applied a witness mark (Molotow paint pen), and the paint wasn't even cracked where the screw and body juncture is. I have finally found a durable and reliable setup and am stoked. Let me explain the setup: I started with an M4 Entry, OEM from Benelli, 11724. -I replaced the safety with a TTI oversized safety. It allows the "belly" of the trigger finger to naturally toggle it "off" when going to trigger. -I replaced the polymer trigger group with an OEM Benelli part. -The handguards are Benelli OEM with Tango Arms full stipple. This makes a World of difference in keeping your hand out of the light during recoil! -I installed an IWC light/sling mount with 1913 rail. On this I placed an XVL2 IRC from Surefire. It is pictured, and its functions shown in the photo. The IWC mount is torqued to 30 in-lb and Loctite 243 applied. The 1913 rail to IWC juncture same, but to 20 in-lb. The XVL2 IRC is torqued to 9 in-lb (per Surefire), and no threadlocker is applied. It has a split-washer that is offset/constantly applying tension to the screw, within the mount. -I replaced the OEM 1913 rail with a FFT 1913 rail, and torqued it to 15 in-lb and applied Loctite 243 to the screws. -I got an ADM "low" Ti QD mount and placed an H2 in it (It actually works under NODS perfectly when turned to "0", but I later purchased a T2 and prefer it slightly.) This places the optic perfectly for me with the stock on the "mid" 12.25" LOP setting, and "raises" it when the stock is fully extended to use with NODS. It also allows you to remove the sight and use the irons, should the window become damaged, frozen humidity obscure it, whatever the case may be. -The rear ghost ring was replaced with an LPA plain ghost ring, no ears. The front sight was removed, acetone was used to remove the luminescent paint, and Testor's orange was applied, over which was applied automotive clear-coat from a touchup pen. -The side-saddle is a Vang Comp velcro card, attached to velcro from Esstac (they had some handy). It holds shells better than any other I am aware of while still being very easy to load. -I use and prefer the ESD sling, hard-mounted to the back of the stock the old fashioned way, and QD'ed to the IWC up front on the opposite side. -Lubed with Black Rifle Balm and Field Balm from CherryBalmz. Now discontinued. *This is with the side saddle full, and the mag-tube full, 11 rounds on board total. Shotgun ammo payload itself averages well over an ounce once you factor wadding! *Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!* *Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!* It took me 15 years to refine things to this point, but I finally feel like I have a cohesive, durable, solid form-factor tool.

That's a whole literal degree. Here is the simple version: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/235/mixing-lubricating-oils https://www.bellperformance.com/bell-performs-blog/grease-compatibility-something-to-pay-attention-to https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/911/lubricant-incompatibility Here is an even simpler version: Lube A is formulated with "X %" of this and that in it. Lube B is formulated with "X %" of this and that in it. They are formulated with balanced amounts of additives to provide certain anti-wear characteristics as well as chemical buffering, etc. When you mix them, you can unbalance both of them and the mixture is not the greater of the two parts, but rather the lesser, or worse. Even simpler: You do not take the cam out of a SBC 350 Chevy and dump it into a 305 Chevy because the 305 revs higher but the 350 has more torque and you want the best of both of 'em! It do not work this way.

I have a Benelli oem polymer trigger housing, stripped, if its of interest. I'm open to offers.

I would recommend Black Rifle Field Balm if you want a thinner product, instead. When you mix ad packs, it's not always best. Sometimes performance can actually degrade.

What I've done is switch to Black Rifle Balm (of which there is no more being made.), and I very very lightly lubricate the FCG. I believe the light strikes were due to fouled, gelled lube around the cap that interfaces with the hammer. I have tested clean FCD SGSO and it did not harden in sub zero temps. Introduce a few hundred rounds of fouling though... Also consider polymer flexibility of shotgun wads, and how this may affect payload delivery. One thing nice to see, is that the pressure curve of this ammunition seems unaffected by temperature to the point that actual cycling is completely unaffected.

My P2 and ADM Ti mount arrived today (together---nice!). Under white light or ambient, I am VERY pleased with the P2. Under NODS, it is underwhelming to say the least. On the dimmest setting, it is just about to bloom, and "smears" very easily. As you may know, under NODS it's very hard to keep a straight line between eye----NOD---Optic---Target. This is why parallax is such a huge deal in night vision compatible optics, as well. Anyway, the least bit of "off axis" you are, the Acro will "smear" out like an RDS with a person who has astigmatism. The T2 does this a small amount if you turn it up a bit bright for conditions and make the angle extreme, but the P2 is easily 2-3x as bad. It is not unusable, but after you use a T2, you won't be pleased. As far as light transmission, the T2 slightly edged out my P2 under NODS. Not worth really bragging on, just a minor footnote. Both are fully serviceable with a PVS14, except the P2 may annoy you with its lowest brightness setting being on the very upper limit of what you'd like for dark environs. For urban, I bet it does much better all around. That said, at night the buttons also take some getting used to finding, while the T2's dial is self explanatory to find and manipulate. If you throw gloves into the equation, and a hair big of stress, the P2 would become entirely unusable in varying lighting conditions. Overall, great pistol optic where the gun is held more on your centerline, but not my choice for a long gun.

Can you confirm the amount torque and whether or not you used a threadlocker on the acro to adm juncture?

A recent P&S Podcast saw a lot of trainers saying it was probably the worst buckshot they've seen for consistency. Try it in YOUR GUN before stacking it deep.

1) whatever cycles reliably and costs least for you to get ahold of. 2) See #1, but add "is reasonably accurate". 3) LE133 or LE132. LE133 will pattern tighter, LE132 adds another hole in the target. 4) LEB127 or LE127RS. I prefer LE127RS due to reduced fouling and IMO, better terminal performance per Le Vista's website gel testing. Use a CYL choke if you don't have the Entry model (which is CYL by default). If you have an M1014 with a fixed MOD choke, the slug recommendations still stand, but the buckshot will take some work, as the flite control may not be your best performer.

The furry part whatever you want that works. The shell holding elastic part? Vang Comp is the only one I like. Ive used esstac and soe, and the Vang is night and day better.

This is why I velcro it to the gun. Sidesaddle. You're going to use what you've got, and what you've gots the gun. Where I live, there is no help. LE may or may not respond, and if they choose to, its 45 minutes minimum.

As an update to this, I've purchased a Surefire XVL2-IRC to fill this role. It looks to fit the IWC mount perfectly, and I will see if it works for this application. By the end of next week my short term eval of it will be done. Here is the X300U placeholder. The toggle switches are NOT to be ridden during recoil. Toggle the light on, engage the target, toggle it off. If you want to use them to flash-bulb, then run your thumb off to the side of it and apply pressure toward the head of the light with the pad of your thumb. This way recoil will bypass your thumb. Do NOT press with the tip of the thumb trapping it behind the light. This will "get you" with anything on a gauge.: *How horrible...my circa @2015? X300U head is brown/purple. Just noticed. #PurpleHeadedLumenSlinger

Just what the title says. This is a NIB scalarworks SYNC for a t2 aimpoint. Payment is via check. Shipping is included, USPS priority, conus only. $110 TYD.

I use 3 methods. -Velcro shotgun side saddle (easily removed when weight is a concern, and it velcroes...so vests, etc. hold it. -Stripper type apparatus like the Progressive Machine and Tool pictured in a post further up. I keep 2 on a belt, one with slugs, one with buck. -Vietnam USGI M60 pouch. I use this when I want to go shooting in my yard. Dump a few boxes of slug and buck into it, and then pick up my hulls and put them in it when done. It's not the most secure, but for just patterning or whatnot, it works great as a way to tote the ammo for non-uber-dynamic stuff.

You will need a mount for it. It does not interface with 1913.