StrangerDanger

Here is a couple shots of the peening. It is minor, but it is there. Mainly from the contact of the firing pin and where the hammer is impacted when the carrier begins moving rearward. This is after approximately 2,000 rounds. 60% high base #4 birdshot, 30% value pack birdshot, 7.5% buckshot and 2.5% slugs.

I bet if you called Todd at FFT, and placed an order, you could indicate you want a cosmetically perfect one. He'd probably dig through the box and select one for you. The picture above isn't one of my triggers. It was someone's I installed. So I'm not sure if the discoloration got worse. It looks more like a contaminant was on the part before it was plated.

These are great. Glad to see the community getting a great product for a change. What needs to happen is getting one of these units into the hands of LAPD since they issue a lot of M4's out.

Yes, some of the triggers are cosmetically imperfect from FFT. No functional issues. I've had about half a dozen members send me their trigger group to tear down to do the installs due to lack of tooling, and the cosmetic blemishes are rare, but present at times.

The item Benelliwerkes posted would be awesome to have installed in the Field Stock; however, the sling loop does not come out easily. I'm not even sure how it comes out.

IWC makes some QD sockets that could be easily added to the field stock. Just remove the rubber butt pad and determine where you want the socket. Drill the appropriate sized hole, half inch I believe and install the mount. It would be plenty strong for civilian work. The one I out in my handguard has held up well when used.

I had the Geisselle trigger installed for a long time due to my perception that Geisselle makes the best products possible. However, I changed over to the Freedom Fighter trigger, disconnector and hammer about a year ago. The engagement of either hammer is solid, but I noticed that with the Geisselle hammer installed, it was extremely difficult to cock the hammer when the safety is engaged. It isn't an issue with the factory hammer either. Not really a deal breaker by any means. The finish of the FFT hammer has held up well. I've installed several sets for members here and the fit quality of the FFT is great. If I was buying again, i'd just get the FFT.

Promote it hard and heavy! This thing rocks.

Great photos VertigoFirearms! After looking at the rear extended wing, it appears it is mainly to protect the aluminum receiver from ejecting shells. The barrel ring and larger wing also acts as a larger dead blow during recoil. Larger surface area for the barrel to recoil against the aluminum receiver. Here are some shots I took:

Nothing definitive in writing. It seems like an inline upgrade. It does act as a visual indicator to determine if the barrel is fully seated. It does provide a larger seating area for the barrel. This could reduce harmonics of the barrel. There are further modifications to the barrel on the portion that enters the receiver. If I recall, the "wing" at the rear of the barrel was enlarged from the original model to the current production units. I'll take some quality pictures of the 11707 mod barrel's inner receiver extension. If someone with a M1014 could take the same, we could show the design changes. Might take me a bit to post up since I'm out looking at a ranch to buy at the moment. So others know what we're talking about when we mention the barrel ring, note the portion of the barrel just ahead of the receiver:

If I still had a Surefire M80, I'd put it on a ban saw. If you have a requisite for a weapon light, this is the way to go. You're not left making a Sophie's Choice on function. I'll take better outdoor pictures when I have a chance. Buy one. You won't be sorry.

Here, all four bracket mounting fasteners are installed. Tighten them like you would the lug nuts on your car as well. Locktite is recommended. All four of these fasteners should be the longer 0.455" units. At this point, you're done. Reassemble and function test. I'm a big fan of the front limited rotation QD sling mount. You can still use your existing sling ring if you like. With my collapsible stock, I opted for a IWC MOE stock QD Sling mount and fed it through the existing sling loop mount. I mount the mount on the right side of the weapon so that the sling doesn't interfere with me shouldering the weapon.

Make certain that none of your fasteners are protruding from the threading on the inner side of the light mount side. The left side of the mount and light are then set over the barrel assembly. Note that no fasteners are present that hold the two halves of the mount together.

I like overkill, so I treat all my fasteners and threads with Locktite 7471 Primer. Install the flash light first before mounting the unit to the barrel. That way if you screw up putting the fasteners where they go, there is no risk of protruding thru the body of the mount and marring your finish. I would also recommend just starting the fasteners, then tighten them as you would the lug nuts on your car. These type of ring clamps bend and conform to the fasteners as you tighten them and squeeze the flashlight's tail cap assembly. So what I do is start all the fasteners, then remove one at a time and apply Locktite primer and 242. Then snug them down. Tighten the fasteners to 20 INCH Pounds. Here, the right side of the mount is acting as a cradle around the barrel assembly. The barrel is just resting in it's approximate mounting position.

These are quality fasteners. They don't strip out easily. 20 INCH Pounds has been specified. I still recommend Locktite 242 for the fasteners to prevent loosening.

Bottom line is, this is the best weapon light mounting setup out there for the Benelli M4. This design could probably adapted to other platforms successfully and provide a superior product than what is currently out there. The main benefits are the tool free disassembly of the M4 is retained. The mount is fixed to the barrel, so any laser type devices installed should hold a zero during maintenance. The mount itself is extremely lightweight. Think around two ounces for the mount, plus the weight of your light. This eliminates all the bulky rail options that are prevalent. The unit itself is beautifully machined. Attention to detail is obvious. The way the unit blends into the curves of the M4 are obvious and shows a fluid design intent by its creator. The use of torx T15 fasteners is a nice touch. The added strength of the fasteners is apparent. The install is very straight forward and simple. There are only two different types of fasteners. All use the T15 torx bit. All have the same 0.6 metric thread pitch. I'll post some pictures to go along with the units installation below. It should also be mentioned that the unit is reversible. If you're a lefty, just flip it and you can mount the light or rail side on whichever side you like. Yes, a Surefire X300 Ultra will fit on the railed section. So if you're right handed, and want a Surefire X200/X300/X300 Ultra/X400/X400 Ultra mounted to the left side, it is an option. You also have the option of using a XT07 tape switch if you so choose. I tried it here: Light options should be cleared up in the near future. Sadly you can't use a Surefire Scout, but as AVA Tactical mentioned, there were complications. Sourcing an E body light and using the Surefire M600C head is an option. I'm using it myself along with a different momentary activation button. Here you can see the two different sizes of fasteners. The smaller 0.330" long T15 Torx fasteners hold the upper portion of the flashlight ring to the body of the mount.

Here are some finished shots of the installation: