StrangerDanger

You can remove your existing internal components and transfer them over to the other receiver extension. I've done many of these installs, I'd be willing to remove the internal components for you if needed.

I have one that is stripped that I'd sell for 75 bucks shipped USPS Priority Mail. Or, I'd trade you for the three position unit.

When you pull the hammer, compare the OEM one with the FFT unit to see if they match up dimensionally. Does the FFT trigger and disconnector function test properly?

I've never had a M2 to disassemble. However, I looked at the Freedom Fighter Tactical website and it does not say if the trigger components will work with the M2 or not. What I would do is, I would pull out the FFT hammer, and install the OEM unit. Compare the movement between the two to see if there is any change in operation. The trigger and disconnector should have no effect on the hammer when the hammer is forward.

The new M600C Scout light is due out soon, they'll be pushing it to 500 lumens as well. When I get this mount put together, I'll come up with a solution for mounting standard bodied lights/lasers. I'm pretty happy with my existing mounting solution. I don't know if I would even switch from my IWC mount to what I am working on. The IWC mount does everything I want. It was just a PITA to make.

I've seen some of that overready stuff. Impressive output, but there are some risks involved. That amount of output really puts a hurt on 123a's, and the risk of explosion is a lot higher. Heat is the primary concern. Particularly for me since I work in Arizona with weapon lights. Certain times of the year, I'm working at night when it is over a 100 degrees still. Suspect searches can last a lot longer than 10 minutes. I've had them go on for hours. Recently I purchased some Surefire X300 Ultras. 500 lumens is pretty damn good with a decent run time.

You can spec them out and buy them for a dime a piece at the hardware store.

Benelliwerks, thanks for the link. I've watched many of his videos in the past. My father is a skilled machinist and is employed as such. So I bought the lathe for him and I to work on together. My plan is to learn much of the end user skills from him. Making a mounting solution is one of my plans when I skill up a little. I agree that systems that circumvent the need for rails is the ideal design. I believe a barrel clamp design that attaches to the rear barrel hanger is the ideal method. That way the weapon retains its tool free disassembly design and the light is indexed in a usable position. I think a two piece design that clamps around the barrel and rear barrel hanger would work well. The two pieces would be screwed together from top to bottom. The top part would be thin so it doesn't obstruct the sight plain at all. He bottom piece would be shaped like a 'U' and fit snugly around the rear barrel hanger. Fastener holes would be present. If making simply for a specific light, there are ways to make the mount a low profile as possible and with fewer parts. Example, a Surefire M600 or m300 Scout light has to threaded attachment points. The mount can be drilled so there are countersunk holes from the inside of the 'U', no threading is required. With the fastener screwed into the Scout light, this design would not allow the fastener to ever back out because the fastener would be trying to back out into the barrel hanger. Another option for the X300 would be to remove the existing mount and use the six existing fastener points. Each mount would be made by hand on the tooling, so the mounting solution would be left customizable. There is no way I could afford a CNC for mass production. There isn't enough demand for such a thing on this platform anyway. This would be just a hobby job to help offset the cost of my tooling. I'd then have the aluminum type 3 parts anodized by a third party. I will need a mill more than a lathe to make these mounts.

This is looking great. Glad to hear the switch sammich is working as intended. The next step will be making a switch pocket. I'd probably just grind a flat spot into the handguard, seat the switch, then backfill around the edges with epoxy. Leave the Sugru switch portion exposed. If you're concerned about the looks, have the handguard Cerakoted. I'm considering doing that with mine. I'm thinking of painting the handguards inside and out black, then having the inside of the grooves painted in burnt bronze. The metal portion of the mount would also be painted burnt bronze. I have some other ideas for the rail mount I need to draw out. I sold a FN Five Seven today, so I'm taking the massive profits and putting it towards a South Bend lathe I found for sale. That's going to be fun to move.

List it on gunbroker to maximize your sucker bucks. I would return it mostly to stock except for the mag tube and the 922 compliance parts. Then sell the other accessories separately. You need to itemize the list of specific parts you have in it. List the auction as, "Benelli M4 - 922 Compliant". Start it out at 1995.95 and don't put a buy it now, unless you want something retarded like 3995.95 for the BIN. Accessorizing can hurt your sales more than a stock unit. Not everyone wants to set the weapon up the same way, so it limits your prospective clients.

1300 for mine new, then again it was 2004. Arranged to buy two additional m4's about 3 years ago for 1400 - 1450.

I think the reduction in pull weight is attributed to the lubricated main spring. Typically on a design where the spring makes contact with either the slide or the frame. Perhaps when the mechanical actions engage one another, like the trigger disconnect on the Glock making contact with the connector. On certain models, overcoming spring pressure on the hammer and sear engagement will give some resistance. Having a lubricant that stays put helps with the feel. I'm looking forward to running it on my blow back 9mm AR15 with some nasty lead ammo. If it's going to choke, it'll be on that crap. I did a pistol class earlier today with the Glock 19. After about 500 rounds of reloads, I had no issues. Granted you can lubricate a Glock with a handful of dirt and it will work. My gen 4 had a little brass to face issues when new. An apex extractor, a white noise extractor bar and a Glockworkz fulcrum duty trigger resolved that. During the class, ejection was consistant. Interesting about the rusting. Out here in Arizona, we don't have much humidity, but sweating situations can be just as bad or worse depending on body chemistry. I will keep an eye on that.

Had a similar deal today. Sold a FN Five Seven pistol with about 800 rounds of ammunition, a Surefire X400, a Raven Concealment holster and about ten factory mags for 3000 dollars. I bought the pistol for like 900 bucks. There might be 1100 in accessories. I figure I scalped a 1000 bucks on a used pistol.

It's not a miracle cream, if there are big snags, it likely won't smooth them over. It will improve the condition though. Plus, your weapons will smell like those light green tic tacs! I applied this stuff to my FN Five Seven and my Sig P938 a little bit ago. There was a marginal improvement in the FN Five-Seven. Nothing like in the Glock or the Beretta though. The Sig's slide pull weight decreased by several pounds.

Reggie, Sure thing. I talked to the guys at WMD Guns today just to touch bases with them after all my junk got delivered. I wanted to make sure it wasn't just sitting on a shelf since I couldn't complete their order form. Most of my items didn't quite fit in the order form options. They indicated that currently, their operation times are roughly 4 weeks. If Cerakoting is required, that adds about another week. I'll be happy to get my shipment back by mid-April.

A friend gave me this product earlier today. Since I have to attend a shoot school tomorrow, I figured I'd give it a try on my Glock 19 Gen 4. I tore the Glock down and put it in my dunk tank filled with odorless mineral spirits. I then hit the parts with the heat gun to dry the mineral spirits off of the parts. I took the Frog Lube paste, and heated it with the heatgun to make it easier to paint on. After thoroughly coating the parts, I allowed them to dry. I then hit them with the heatgun again to liquify the Frog Lube. Then I allowed the parts to cool, and I wiped them down with the supplied microfiber bag. I then reassembled. I nearly ripped the slide off the frame on first cycling it. It's really slick crap. I like that it is dry to the touch after it cools down. Being impressed, I figured I'd try it out on a 22lr conversion kit for my AR15 MRP. It was always gritty and difficult to cycle by hand. After applying the lubricant, it was ball bearing smooth. Similar effects on my Beretta 92g Elite II. We'll see how well it holds up over a light class tomorrow.

No. I never experienced any carbon venting on my hand surprisingly.

I have one of those M80's sitting on my shelf collecting dust. As bm4sbs outlined, it is heavy and not very comfortable. It's quite thick and not very comfortable to hold onto. It was my option before I started this thread and cut up the plastic handguards.

Good update. I didn't know you could drill he PCB like that. The floss should work fine. The rubber boot will keep it all together. The areas of the handguard you highlighted is the same that I milled. What you need to determine is how big of a hole you are going to mill through the handguard to access your button sammich. You don't want it too big, since you want all four edges of the sammich to be supported by the handguard. I don't know the dimensions of your switch boot, but if it is like 1" in height, I would stay under 0.75" so you have 0.125" on the top and bottom. The inside of the handguard is pretty forgiving. I would put blue painters tape over areas you don't want to accidentally hit. Put several layers. The only area you need to really avoid is the piston housing. You can also under cut the forward mount molding if needed to slip your PCB further forward. This may be where you determine if your current switch sammich is too long. I think you mentioned using a dremel to modify the handguard. You need to get the extension adapter that allows you to hold the cutter tool like a pen if you don't already have it. The various sanding bit shapes will work the best for the plastic. Avoid the steel cutters and cutting discs. It's slower going with the sanding bits, but it'll give you more control and be a lot more forgiving. I would determine where you want your switch, and use a drill press if possible to drill holes through the front of the handguard where you want your switch to be. A mill would be far better since you could then move the axis and make a horizontal cut, but I don't think you have access to one. A drill press will work alright, you'll just have to move the handguard a few times. You can then fix any uneven areas with the dremel. Once you have your holes, you can then flip the handguard over and plot out the area you need to mill down for your sammich to sit nearly flush with the surface of the handguard. Be mindful of the fact that the handguard angles inward near the front. Test fit often to determine where your interference is. You can go quite thin, since you'll be backfilling the area with epoxy. The epoxy will add the strength back and prevent the handguard from deforming when pressure is applied. For the switches wiring, I'm not sure what you had in mind. If you plan on just cutting a channel on the outside of the handguard, and backfilling it with epoxy or if you had a more complicated plan in mind. With the rubber boot over the switch sammich, you could probably get away with not even using the Sugru material. Adding additional layers of material between you and the switches may effect the switches feel negatively. The boot will be pressed tightly against the inside of the handguard. Or, you could use the Sugru as the boot and wrap it around the switches. That should weatherproof them. Expect the milling portion of this to take several hours. I didn't anticipate the length of time required, and began to get impatient around hour seven.

The only thing remotely hard to get off is the receiver extension. With the right tools it is doable. It took me about two hours to rear down everything. The rear sight comes off surprisingly easily. I had expected trouble from it. WMD didn't think it was possible to remove all the dissimilar materials from the receiver. It seems things like steel, aluminum and stainless have to be coated with a slightly different chemical mixture. Coating the barrel would not be easy because of this. You have the ejector housing riveted into place with a captive spring in there. A detent and spring are also under the magazine cap. The barrel extension that enters the receiver is already nickel plated, so any benefit would also be rather minimal. I believe WMD charged him about 100 dollars. They treated it like an AR15 bolt carrier group. We didn't do he bolt head since you can't get the extractor claw off without destroying the pin. Plus, it's already chrome plated, any benefit would be minimal. Applying a top coat will result in an additional fee.

I've been thinking about sending the forearms to be Cerakoted. I was thinking about having the Burnt Bronze applied inside the grooves of the handguard. I'd also have the IWC mount coated in Burnt Bronze. I think it would help break up the all black handguards. I'd have the inside of the handguards sprayed as well to clean up some of my cutting mess and aid in cleaning. I figure I have quite a while before the bulk of my parts come back anyway. My Aimpoints and Surefires are due back this week from the coater.

Yes. The carrier and the tail are steel. Coating does not require removal of the tail. Removal is an option, but the pin would have to be re-staked.

Currently, my bolt carrier is being coated in Nickel Boron by WMD Guns in Florida. After coating, they've been instructed to paint the visible portion of the bolt carrier with black Cerakote. So basically just the right side of the bolt carrier above the carrier's rail will be painted. A friend has his bolt carrier already done in Nickel Boron. It is significantly smoother in the action. However, I didn't care for the nickel finish on an otherwise all black gun.

I might take one this task. I've always wanted a basic small lathe. A lathe would be the proper tool to do this. Using the brass handles is a smart method of getting to avoid doing knurling detail. I have limited experience with a lathe, but I know the basics. Roll the carriage up to the brass handle and taper the end some and make sure the face is concentric and set to a uniform length. With the cut off brass handle in the chuck, and a drill bit in the tailstock, this would drill a hole perfectly in the center. Maybe stamp the side with the rod's size. That would be pretty easy on the brass. Maybe get a derlin board and bore some holes evenly spaced out for the brass base to fit in. I bet a few would be willing to buy such tools.

Seems like a good reason to buy a mini lathe. I'm not really certain about the heat treating for those drill rods.