StrangerDanger

Well, here's hoping for saturday delivery. Try to remember that this is a threaded pipe we're ordering. Waiting sucks. The weekly bumps are crappy too S--- happens though. . Accept it or go buy an inferior part.

I bet 25 people would be willing to take your spot. Maybe even make 25 bucks for standing in line for three months.

Neat. Does the paint he uses take a month to cure to the optimal level of hardness like Duracoat?

Great camera work!

I have a Design Concepts bolt handle. Luckily I snagged it at Christmas. They're hard to get. I figure Kip will provide a great replacement. He may be aiming for stock weight though rather than a ultra lightweight model. When I used the GG&G bolt handle years ago, I could hear the BCG moving much more slowly. I'd estimate cycle time was around 0.25 seconds. The stock unit was probably around 0.20 and the Titanium model is slightly faster. This was assuming I did my part and didn't basically limp wrist it. If you purposely let the weapon roll with the recoil, you can hear and feel the carrier moving more sluggishly. I have some concern that if you reduced the weight too much, the ARGO system would batter the BCG. Or slam the BCG to the rear. I'm not sure if the ARGO was tuned for a specific weight when paired with the main spring inside the receiver extension. I believe the ARGO is more forgiving though. Design Concepts was 8 grams Stock was 12.5 grams GG&G was 24.5 grams *These were according to my Dillon electronic reloading scale. I can't recall the exact amount, but those are within half a gram. These weights are miniscule compared to the combined weight of the BCG though. What lube are you using? I have a few bottles of LaRue's machine gun oil that I haven't tried out yet.

On the stock and handguards, are they actually molded in the tan color, or they just painted black stocks? Thanks!

After 10,000 rounds through my M4, I feel I can say that the weakest link I've found in the platform is the trigger disconnect. When you fire a round in the M4, and the BCG cycles to the rear, the disconnector is working properly. You could pull the trigger at this point and the hammer will not fall. However, as the BCG begins to move forward and the shell elevator drops, the disconnector is now disengaged. During this time while the BCG is still moving forward into battery, you can pull the trigger and the hammer will fall. What you end up with is a chambered round and the hammer down against the rear of the BCG. to clear this, you must manually chamber a fresh round to recock the hammer. The live round that was chambered is then ejected. I've installed a lighter bolt handle that weighs 8 grams opposed to the 12 gram factory handle. This has sped up the action slightly. You must have a solid stance with the M4, or you can hear that the weapon is cycling slower than usual. Running the weapon wet with oil helps also. Some would say, just slow down. However, if I have my followup shot in sight, I'd like to take it without inducing this type of failure. The recoil reduction of the M4 is so great that shooting follow up shots like performing double taps with a pistol is easy. As fast as you can pull the trigger, you can keep the weapon on target. Even with high brass loads. You can cause this failure by hand (without a live round) by cycling the weapon. As soon as the elevator drops, there is about 2 inches of BCG travel that the disconnector is disconnected. I contacted Benelli about this years ago. I thought there was something wrong with it. They basically gave me the line, "It is what it is." It was inspected by Benelli when I had the 4 port barrel replaced and they said it was fine too. An aftermarket fix would be awesome. I don't know how it would be done though. The disconnector would have to be based on BCG placement rather than on the shell elevator. Anyone else experience this?

Looks great! Can you take a picture of how you mounted the switch? It looks like you went under the top rail. Is there any interference when you disassemble and remove the barrel? When you shoot a lot of rounds, make sure the knob that clamps the barrel clamp to the top rail stays tight. Mine backed off after 200 rounds. You will like the shell carrier from Sidearmor. My only complaint about it is they didn't melt the edges at all. So it can gouge your plastic hulls. Not really a big deal. Have you shot it yet at night? My testing has been put on hold since I'm waiting for the Ti tube also. I sold my factory tube and extension a few weeks ago. I really hope it comes in this week. That, and my LMT piston upper. I've got around 4500 rounds waiting for it to come in.

Oh Jebus, not the Corvette comparison again!

The barrel profile has changed significantly since the LE model. They've peformed a number of small upgrades to the barrel since then. It would likely still fit though. If I recall, the "wing" on the barrel at the very back is npw oversized and where the barrel seats up against the receiver now has an oversized load bearing surface earlier models did not. Any reason why you'd rather have the fixed choke? Strength and simplicity?

I'd list it on Gunbroker for 1799.95 and write up an overview focused on the Limited Edition Status. Then, have 12 - 20 high quality photographs taken of the weapon. You'll likely have to sit on it for a few months for someone to bite. The trouble right now is there are a lot of current production M4's available. The best time to sell is when pickins are slim. The trouble is, this isn't the type of gun most people collect. I'd sell the dot optic apart from it. You could probably move it in a snap for 1250.00. If I recall, this model has a fixed choke and a 2 port barrel.

Biscuitbreath, Wish your SIL luck from us. If you want to get your M4 faster and probably cheaper, there are ways. They come up for sale on here quite often. If you don't want to wait, gunbroker is always available. If you want black: http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=132900009 If you want tan: http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=132815578

It's tough for them to cry that it shouldn't have been used on a M4 with the factory rail when it is shown on their website with it mounted. If someone was dead set to use the LaRue on the crap rail, they could mount something behind it that uses a cross bolt. Then seat the mount directly against the LaRue. Whenever my mag tube gets here, I'll put it through some love. Beyond just birdshot.

I have big concerns about the LaRue mount and the out of spec rail. So to try to prevent any damage, I cranked the throw lever so tight that it takes both of my thumbs to release/close it. I then cut the ladder rail as close as possible ahead and behind the mount to act as a cushion. That's why I left some room behind the optic on the top rail. I figure that much clamping force on the side should limit the need of the recoil lug. The cheek weld is much better than when I was using the EOTech 552. On it, I felt like I had to lift my cheek off the stock to center myself behind the reticle. Mine only seemed to bloom on the very highest setting indoors. My guess is that setting is meant for use on Mercury killing space zombies. I like to find a setting where it works for daytime and night time use without having to adjust the intensity. I plan on setting it, and leaving it on 24/7. 50,000 hours should be long enough. That's about 5.7 years. For comparison, my 2 pound EOTech ate double A batteries in 1000 - 1500 hours, and would turn itself off after 8 hours of on time. Weak. What I like about the T-1 over the CompM4 is the lack of that massive battery compartment. A lot of that optic obstructed your field of view. Matched with my light setup, this seems like cheating. I'm going to put one of these on my MRP. I'm more concerned about close range speed than accurate 200+ yard shots.

I got my Aimpoint T-1 today. The package size is perfect. I mounted it 4 spots from the furthest to the rear lug. I switched the throw lever to the left side of the optic. This will present less obstruction to the charging handle. It seems that the pistol grip stock is fine for my arms. I tried shifting closer to see if it would be better with a shorter stock, but it felt the same. I can't fully reassemble since I don't have a magazine tube right now. However, the Sidearmor rail holds the barrel in place. So I got a good feel for it. On the highest setting, I think you could see the dot if you were aiming into the sun. That thing is nuclear bright. Having owned the CompM4 recently, I can say that there is no reason to subject yourself to the weight, size and expense of it.

First mikey jackson, now this!? Glad you sold it. Couldn't believe it lasted as long as it did.

I was actually thinking about snagging his light, but forgot where he mentioned it. Figured he'd come through and mention it. Unob, you have gaypal? You wanted 220 shipped right? Does the front sling mount have limit stops like in the DD mounts? Or do they just spin freely? Good to hear about the Magpul BUIS's.

I sure as **** am not waiting that long. I've got a line on one. I gave up on the Masada. They've dicked that dog around way too long. Is that one yours? Very nicely set up if so. I run a Magpul FDE M93b stock. I'm looking at running one of those BAD's also. I'm pretty sure it'll work on my SMOS lower. I was weighing which sights to get for a backup. Troy's or Magpuls? The cost and maybe the weight of the Magpuls are nice, any other bennies? I'll probably go with the Aimpoint T-1 also and set another Scout light on it.

Take some pictures when you get it done. Being a lefty shouldn't be a problem. Just mount it to the right side. Consider your sling options. The factory front loop isn't that great. I liked the rail mounted mount a 100x better. The Daniel Defense mount is the best. The one that limits rotation. I used a GearSector 2-point sling. You can use the one long picatinny rail that comes with the sidearmor rail mounted on the right side. Light as far forward as possible, and sling mount at the very rear. That'll leave the left side of the weapon obstruction free. As for rail covers, ladder rail covers work the best. Using ladder rails on the top rail will obstruct the iron sights significantly. It's usable, but not optimal. I'd only use them there with an optic. The Surefire ladder rails will offer the least amount of obstruction. The only reason I have them is to retain the wire and I am waiting on my Aimpoint T-1. I tried Magpul XTM covers on my side rails. They weren't needed and didn't feel right. The ladder rails seemed best. The larger covers over-hang on the factory handguard. So they get in the way of your hands. Weapon build up's are always expensive. Lot's of trial and error too. I have high hopes for the MRP. I talked to LMT yesterday, and they said an order for one today would be delivered in October of 2010! 5 hours of machining time each. Insane times.

It might be possible to modify the channel the pistons operate in. Just open up the slot with a dremel. However, I imagine you'll be sending it back to where you got it.

I was going to get a X400 for my XDm, but I'm a little over extended right now since I'm trying to get a LMT MRP piston upper for my AR15. My concern for the X400 would be the mode switch at the very bottom. My cell mate has one and we were looking at it's viability for a rifle/shotgun/subgun install. If you're looking at it for the lowest weight, that disappears as soon as you attach that XT07. Another issue with the X300/X400 series on a side mount is the battery compartment latch is exposed. One bump and it'll loose it's lunch. This photo shows you the slight parallax issues you'll have. Notice that the rail isn't aligned perfectly with the axis of the barrel. You're better off without the XT07. It was hard to push. The constant on button was nice though. Plus, the 7 inches is no where near enough in my opinion. Here is my Sidearmor with the Scout. I tried to fit my Surefire X300 on a LaRue mount, and the XT07. Think about where the mount is for the X300/X400 series. It then has the large tail piece that sticks out towards the back. Then, the stiff wire protrudes rearward also. I would guess this combo would extend the package about 3 inches further back. Now, you can get the XT07, and pull off their tape switch that has the picatinny rail mounted pad. Then, you have to buy a STxx switch like this: http://www.surefire.com/Plug-In-Tape-Switch-for-WeaponLight They have several different lengths to get the switch where you want it. The silver plug simply pulls out of the XT07 tail piece. Then you replace it with this one. If you mount the light on the left side (assuming you're right handed), you could easily run a short switch to the handguard. Attach the velcro to the handguard and the switch to a position you like. Personally, I like it under my support thumb. If you try to mount the light to the right side of the weapon, you'll run into wire routing ****. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/3632303936_99696a5a56.jpg?v=0 Here you can see that if the light package extended further to the rear, it would begin to crowd my hands. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3355/3632303902_2c8c92ca58.jpg?v=0 With the X400 being on the bottom of the light package (stupid) it will introduce approximately 2 inches of horizontal parallax. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/3632303882_93963f82b0_o.jpg X400 - 450 XT07 - 165 ST Cable - 80 or Scout Light - 475 ST Cable possibly - 80 The package from LaRue has a 7" switch. (The price on the Scout light just went up in the past week about 50$.) http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=165 Also, I'm selling a 7" Surefire switch that I took off my Scout. It'll work on the XT07 tail piece if you want it. I never even used it. http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=132291912 If you want it, I'll sell it to you for 40 dollar shipped. Just throwing you some options. This has been my big project for the past month or so.

There is no where to attach the XT-07. That fits on a Picatinny rail. What you'd need is a regular tape switch, with a set of velcro to attach it to where you want on the handguard. The Sidearmor's rail isn't exactly parallel with the barrel, so your laser will have two plains of parallax. Not a huge amount, but enough to note. When using the X400, the switch that controls the Light and laser mode will be faced to whichever side you've mounted it. So if you lay the weapon on it's side, it may change your setting. The XT07 and the weapon light make a large package. The tail piece is huge, it'll add about 3 inches or so to the X400. Good luck finding an X400. I tried for a few months, but everyone is sold out. Overall, I think you'd be happier with the Surefire Scout light. Straight from LaRue, it's cheaper than the X400. Slightly brighter and a much more compact setup.

Ouch. My guess is the FAB was developed for a certain barrel profile. There have been changes. The 11707 barrel that I have is significantly different from the 11703. What generation Benelli do you have?

Hey, we've had enough bad ideas come out of Illinois already this year. I just sold the factory magazine tube and its mickey mouse spring for 40 bucks shipped. I sold the factory Benelli +2 extension for 150 and the factory limiter tube for 20. So I'm breaking even by installing the Ti tube.

Thanks for the update. If/when you have a chance, can you weigh your charging handle in grams? I'm running a list comparing the overall weight of the stock and aftermarket charging handles.