StrangerDanger

I'm in the same order bracket. April 14th I think. Paid up about two weeks ago. Last I heard there was a wedding for kip's daughter and his lead machinist was out due to a bad toof.

There can't be anything in that roll pin hole at that height. It's basically an access hole for the roll pin. The bolt carrier retracts through the channel. My receiver looks just like Duggans. At one time I put Alumahyde on it. It worked ok. I don't worry about it anymore. When I start my painting project, I figure it'll get covered again.

Nice shotgun. You need a better camera honestly. It's tough to see the details and refined lines.

I returned the M80. It simply was not comfortable. Plus the rail mounted a light right where your hand would be. The only way I'd use one is if I had to have a FVG. It weighed quite a bit once you added rail covers and everything. Approx. 10 ounces, not counting a light. Sidearmor is the rail I've went with. The top rail is not true picatinny spec. It is however better than the factory one. There is more meat on the lugs. Weight is around 9 ounces. Weights listed are higher because they kept the long side rails and forgot to subtract the weight of the factory top rail that you remove. I like this rail because it gets the mounted light away from the handguard area and uses the factory handguards. The Scout light is the top of the line for this weapon. Extremely compact and a high output. Long runtime also. Multiple choices for activation. I like a rail mounted sling mount much better than the crappy factory one. I use a Daniel Defense quick detatch mount. I put it all the way to the rear of the side rail. So now the handguard is unobstructed by the sling. I no longer have to slide my hand up under the sling to get a proper hold. You have the option to get a shell holder that functions better than the Mesa one. While I really like my X300, it was too large and the activation method was not optimal. My photos are listed in other threads. It's not easy to link them from my blackberry.

CompM4 on a Benelli? Seems a little big. I tried mine on for fun before I sold it. No go for me. Heavy too.

I recommend you set up a gunbroker account and list them there with actual photos. You won't take as much of a bath, and it is free to list. So you have nothing to loose. There aren't that many people who view this board honestly. Gunbroker will give you a broader audience. Search what you're selling on their site to see what others are selling theirs for. You can then gauge the market. Don't make combo sales, not everyone needs that particular part, so they may avoid.

I frown on dot optics that do not offer the ability to control the intensity of the dot. The newer reflex might be better. The old one was less than stellar. Here in the desert, the lighting conditions are extreme. If I was on a restricted budget, I'd get the Aimpint H-1 for about the same money as the Reflex.

If you want a light, buy the M4. If you don't, buy the M2. The inertia driven recoil system will be fine for you. The M2 is plenty strong. ****, half the owners of these guns won't set the gun down unless a rag is between it and the truck bed. The other half don't even shoot them. They take pictures of them with other assorted tac crap and dinner pic's and post them online. A significant percentage of posts start something like this, OMG!!!!!!?!@*##!!! I SCRATCHED MY xxx's BARREL!!! Please console me while I contemplate washing my mouth out with buckshot!

Did we hit another bump besides the wedding and the bad toof?

I feed by M4 Valuepak birdshot all the time. Shooting clays will be challenging with a heavy barrel and ghost ring sights.

Just ordered up the Aimpoint T-1 with the LaRue mount. Yay. Plus a few other odds and ends that they had. It's all her fault. So what will get here first, the scope of the Ti tube?

There is good data here. http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80819 Then there is the foam filled epoxy method. I think this guy posts here sometimes. I remember his M80 setup. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=181966 I think the epoxy method would be the best and easiest.

What kind of mods are you looking at doing? Cut the LOP? Sometimes I see them on gunbroker. I'll let you know if I see one.

Bullet grain weight would be a better example. I can't stand 40 s&w. To me it recoils more than 45acp. I'd rather have 9mm over either of the two since I'm in a ban free State. 20 rounds of 9mm in an XDm is a lot of firepower. If I was stuck with a 10 round capacity, I'd opt for a 45acp. We refer to the 40 as the ghetto round. When we find them, we pack them up, tumble them and sell them. Shot placement trumps caliber in the fighting calibers. I've run into some areas where the pistol was absolutely better than even the SBR. I had to clear out a mine because there were some noises coming from in it. At first, I had my SBR at the ready as I entered. It was difficult to maneuver through the tight passages. So I slung it and went to my 1911 Ed Brown and used my Surefire Aviator A2 to finish the search. The pistol will be faster than any other weapon to deploy. What it lacks is the power of the rifle or shotgun.

I ran 200 rounds through the M4 this evening. Everything ran great. I want to run a few more times in the dark. However, I had to remove my extension since I sold it for 150 bucks. So now I patiently await for Kip's Titanium tube. The iron sights work okay even though they are blocked by the ladder rails almost flush with the tritium bead. Light activation was fluid. I found I could strobe it if I wished. The only thing I wish the Scout had was low output nav LED's. I have a Surefire Helmet light, but the activation/deactivation is poor and the picatinny rail mount I have won't fit on the Benelli. Cleaning the weapon was easy. No tools required to disassemble the weapon.

Ammo costs are still crazy for .223. No, just the lead bullets. 2000 per 45acp, and 3000 per 9mm IIRC. The powder/primers usually comes via FedEx. My table thought it was aboard the Trieste.

At my Wal-Mart, we haven't seen a single box of 9mm or 45acp in 6 months. They have purchasing limits of six boxes per day too. For a while, even the birdshot was out. I'm actually looking to build a pistol caliber AR15 so I can shoot regularly. It's much cheaper/easier to reload for. Should work well in the typical zombie ranges. I've been doing a little research, but I don't really know what brands are the best. I want to stay away from the SBR side this time, because traveling state to state is a PITA. Quite funny to see my mailman who is a contractor have to haul this: There is literally a ton of lead under here. NOGO on shelves.

All firearms are pretty much expensive paperweights without ammunition. I just did a rough count, and I have approximately 50,000 rounds of handgun ammunition on hand. I reload, so it's fairly cheap. Think around 7.50 per 100 9mm, 9 or 10 per 100 45acp. Just time intensive even on my Dillon 650. My mailman had to deliver 15 boxes that weighed 70 pounds each in one trip. He was no happy. I've been collecting supplies for rifle ammunition for a while. I just haven't pulled the trigger on a big bulk order of supplies yet. Rifle primers are about as rare as dignity in congress.

Gluing is done. I added a velcro strip beneath the switch pocket to preload the switch tension. It made the switch a little more pliable. All screws are blue locktited and properly torqued. I plan on shooting it later today in low light.

http://www.larsontactical.com/index.html I've never used these guys, but some of their work looks nice. I think my M4 would look cool done like this:

The Sidearmor definitely is a NO-GO for a FVG. I'm liking this setup a lot. I don't run around with the light on constant. I use it as a true momentary illumination device. Activate, deactivate, move, sweep and so on. The way the grip is cut puts the switch in a pocket, so the rubberized outer grip is slightly over the top of the switch. So you have to consciously press into the grip to activate the light. The strip is the length of my middle, ring and pinkie finger. I found when I was normally holding the Benelli, I wasn't squeezing with my fingers. I was pulling towards my shoulder. So the majority of the pull was applied to the first to second knuckle. I have yet to have any AD's with the light even when slung from my 2 point GearSector sling. I intentionally let the grip slap against my side to see if it would illuminate. Nothing. Plus, I'm not running secret ops missions for General Clancey. So AD's with light aren't that big of a concern for me. I'm going to trial run a method to activate the light easier to see if it is better or worse. Just a simple spacer between the grip and the switch will pre-load tension on the switch I think. My biggest problem with tape switches was the install. Most systems I've seen assembled leave wires hanging everywhere. With this setup, I have 1.5" of wire exposed. From the back of the light to the top rail. Not bad for having a 40" switch.

I take it as a compliment. That's the way I've dumped 10k through my M4. Got lucky today and got some rifled hollow point slugs and some birdshot.

The bottom rail is the only benefit of the M80. If you intend to run a FVG, it is probably the only way to go. If you intend to hold the weapon by the forearm area, it flat out sucks. When adding the weight of the rail covers to the M80, it weighs about the same as t he Sidearmor top rail. The Sidearmor rail could be improved upon though. The trouble with running a true spec picatinny rail and an entire top rail is the too tall relative to the height of the iron sights. So what I advise is "whoever" makes the top rail should replace the rear iron sights, and provide a riser for the front sight to return it to a proper height. The rear sight would then bolt to the new rail. This spot would be milled off so there were no picatinny rails. Provide longer bolts and screws to extend through the new top rail. This would offer additional support to the top rail also since the rear sight is mounted on a much thicker part of the receiver. This would only add approximately .15 ~ .20 inches of height to the sights, so it wouldn't affect your use of the iron sights very much. I haven't thought up a quick fix for the front sight though. Since the front sight itself has a threaded end that the 5.5mm nut attaches to. Adding a riser beneath the sight "hood" or providing a replacement "hood" that had the riser in it would not allow you to use the threads on the bottom of the sight. The side rails of the Sidearmor are well thought out. They have an index groove that retains the rail in place. However, they are not true spec picatinny rails either. Their shell carrier on the side is very functional. I was quite impressed with it. It was far easier to use than the Mesa unit I previously tried. You're limited to four rounds, but it isn't cluttered and the weight is minimal. Additional rounds could be added if the top rail extended past the rear iron sight assuming an occlusion was left for the trigger group retention pin. A proper spec rail could then be used without obstructing the sight plain.

The biggest negative about the M80 is comfort. I tried a dozen different combination's of ladder and rail covers. Nothing came close to the comfort of the factory handguards. Crowding your hand with a rail mounted item(s) = Fail.

So would my RMJ Tactical Tomahawk be considered a knife? I recommend you guys establish SOP's for the significant other and yourself any time you go to Wal-Mart or any store that sells ammo. Buy any and all Buck and slugs. Then a minimum of 2 boxes of valuepak birdshot on every trip you make there. Set goals for ammunition on hand. Such as 500 rnds of 12 gauge. Then try to go to 1000, 2500, 5000, 10000... I'm currently at around 3000 for 12 gauge. I reload pistol and rifle ammo. I've got enough supplies for that to make Obama cry. I want to get a MEC shotgun reloading press to load buckshot. I've been collecting high brass hulls for years. Sourcing components is tough though... Plus, I probably have 30 different types of hulls. So that would complicate the loading process.