StrangerDanger

If the rejects are damaged on the magazine cap side, Kip should cut them down and thread them to fit the 14" barreled guns. Before any wind chimes are let out, be sure to demill them or some jerk will be selling them on gunbroker.

The issue will then be that your rear sight is not at the proper height. I attempted to get SideArmor to revise their rail. But they started ignoring me. I said they should have extended the rail to the rear of the M4. Remove the rear sight and use the 4 or 5 mounting holes through the thicker part of the receiver along with the 5 factory mount points to secure the rail. Then profile the rear so the factory rear sight bolts to the Sidearmor rail. This would raise the rear sight enough to allow for a true spec picatinny rail along the top. No sight channel would be required. The bolts would need to be replaced with slightly longer than stock ones. The front sight would need a riser. This is the most complicated part to produce since the front sight post is actually the threaded part that the 5.5mm nut attaches to. This squeezes the front sight hood between the brazed on sight tower. If a spacer was used, there wouldn't be enough thread on the sight. So a replacement front sight would be required with longer threads. True spec side rails should be standard. There is no reason for them to be center cut like they are now. The weight savings is minimal at best. I may bug them again to try to spearhead a revision.

Here is a good deal. http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=134438527 This auction is being ran by Sidearmor.

Wow. Never seen those before. If they had longer lengths of those, I'd get them for mine. One trouble with ladder rails on the top rail is it obscures the iron sights. With a ladder rail in place, you can just see the top blade of the front sight. That's their reason for having the center channel cut. Without it, the sights would be obstructed. The rail itself sits about 0.20" higher than the factory rail because of the top cover. If you're going to run an optic, this doesn't matter at all.

Probably talking about the Mesa Tactical prototype. You're better off with the factory one IMO. Unless they've drastically overhauled it from the original prototype photos I saw. BTW, way to be a killjoy.

Print out a copy of the letter Duggan linked. Pull the grip off your pistol grip, and fold the letter up and stick it inside the empty space inside the pistol grip. If an overzealous cop gives you any grief, pull out the letter. Show the magazine tube with the USA markings. Play it safe and get an aftermarket USA made follower. Even if the collapsible stock and pistol grip is considered two parts, you'd be safe according to this letters count. Retards running 3-gun rules may still ban you from playing their reindeer games, but you'll have the weapon you want. If this weapon is part of your home defense plan, cover your ass. Convert as much as you can to US made parts.

I have two on mine. Two is one. One is none.

Nice! Let us know how you like it when you get it. Plenty of lightening cuts along the bottom of the rail. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3392/3615581535_d2aa5cdab6_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2449/3615581477_8915b9e307_b.jpg Anyone remember the old SideArmor rail system from years ago? Where it was just a picatinny rail that extended off the receiver to a barrel clamp? They've changed it significantly since then.

Good, I was worried you might have twisted the receiver in a vice. Can you perform this operation? If you can perform this method of unloading the weapon, that should indicate that there is nothing binding up the bolt release. Have you inspected the trigger group for any damage?

Pressing the shell release lever does not eject a round from the magazine on top of the shell elevator? See 6d. If you have a round chambered, when you press the shell elevator, a round should eject from the magazine tube onto the shell elevator. Have you tried reinstalling the factory magazine tube to see if the problem continues? Have you modified or replaced the bolt release button? What method did you use to put the weapon in a vice to remove the magazine tube?

It is a Spectergear carrier. I got this model for the M1/M2/M3. http://www.spectergear.com/specterstore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1839&idcategory=14

You can reverse the lever on the T-1 mount. Having the lever on the left offered less obstruction of the charging handle. If I have to remove the sight to go to irons, I'd rather do it with my left hand while maintaining a firing grip. The shell carrier provides some protection of the lever, so it seemed to make the most sense.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2085/3720121318_4a87717354_o.jpg It behooves you to sell the steel tube before the titanium ones become prominent.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/3720121500_00ed40a136_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3500/3719307735_87071bfa7c_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2031/3720121430_dfd7b9ae6e_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3517/3720121278_62b709340e_o.jpg

You'll be glad you did. Start thinking about what side rails you need/want. It comes with one long rail. I went with two short rails. When you get it, you'll be amazed at how light it is and impressed by the machining along the bottom. Their photos on the site do not give it justice. The shell carrier they offer is pretty slick too. Much better than the Mesa or the horid Tacstar.

Thanks! I haven't taken the top rail off since installing it. I imagine it could be rubbing the black finish off under there. The top rail covers much more of the receiver than the factory rail. So there is a much larger footprint that conforms to the top perfectly. The factory rail has likely marred the finish on your receiver. I had marks from when I had the Mesa rail there. The finish on my M4 wasn't very good to begin with on the receiver. It always had a discolored look. You can see it in a few of my photos. You could hit the worn area with alumablack if you need to fix up the finish. I use it once in a while for deep scratches. I'm probably going to paint mine sometime in the next few months.

My tube came in today. I'm really glad I downgraded to an inferior aftermarket tube that weighs half as much and has significantly better machining done on the threaded ends. When you look at the threads on the factory tube vs. The Titanium one, it's easy to tell. The Titanium threads are left in the white and have much more defined threads. The packaging was outstanding too. I was skeptical about how much it would change the weight distribution of the weapon. I was pleased to find that the front end feels a lot lighter even fully loaded. The finish is excellent. When I picked up the tube, I couldn't believe how lightweight it is. The replacement spring is nice also. I was worried that it might be difficult to insert the rounds with such a long spring. My concerns quickly vanished upon loading. When inserting the rounds, they sound different. I don't know if it is the tube or the spring. It's not really an issue, just an observation. It was a long wait to get, but it was worth it. I wouldn't waste my money on anything else now that this is a option. Is it worth upgrading from an existing full length tube or extension? I feel it was. I was able to sell my factory extension for 150. Then I sold the limter tube for 15. Then I sold the Benelli tube itself for 35. So I pretty much broke even. Even if I didn't have the factory extension to sell, I'd gladly pay the difference. If you're worried about US made part counts, going to an aftermarket full length tube is the best solution. An extension does not constitute a US made part since the original Benelli tube is still installed. I plan to go do some testing tuesday I think.

That's a pretty good deal. The nice thing about buying out of state is avoiding the sales tax. Your local dealer will also charge you a transfer fee also. You have to weight the sight unseen issue with saving a 100 bucks and the added week of wait time.

Easy might be an overstatement. But they bump off pretty easy. Easier than say a Magpul XT. Much easier. Given that the top edge isn't covered at all, it would be easy to knock loose. A sling would strip it off easy. So unless you mount the sling like where I did, you might run into issues. Maybe infidel could give you his opinion on it. Those pads work fairly well, but you loose the lock on feature. You can use many different lengths of switches with those STxx pads. I used the 40" for mine. I'd try the SR first. If you hate it, you can send it back. I did that several times until I got what I'm using now.

1440 shipped from NY, no taxes (unless you live in NY), no drama. Has a Buy It Now for that price. http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=134072364 I'll take US made parts to reduce the imported parts. So a Titanium tube that weighs less and is made in the US is a good choice. Think of it this way, the added two round capacity will not increase the weight of the weapon due to the reduction in tube weight. Basically, you break even. A typical shell weighs between 1.5 and 2.0 ounces. The only negative is the length of time to get it. I have no connection to the seller. If you want a tan one, I could find that too.

I had that switch on the X300 and the XT07 switch block. Same as the one you linked. I really like the design. I felt it was a little harder to press than I would have liked. I felt the rail cover was too easy to knock off the rail too. I really liked the constant on button. I wish there was a way I could have added that to my pistol grip. But Surefire only offers that design with a 7" model. In my 2009 catalog, Surefire has some new switches coming out soon that are pretty nice. They offer one that will run your standard weapon light as a low output tasking light via one button, and full on on another. Then they had switch blocks that connected to two devices. So you could run a light/laser combo. There were a few others. I couldn't find them listed on their website. They have some new handheld lights coming out later this year that are extremely bright. They use the same tech as the X series and the Scout lights.

I think you misunderstood, or I read the post wrong. Look here: http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=165 This is for the light and the mount. It also has the standard Surefire mount. Not the offset. It comes with the 7" tape switch, tape switch cap and a cap that is a push button. One thing I noticed is the light will be seated further to the rear on your side rail with the offset mount. Also, how close the light is to the barrel will influence how much shadow is cast. Further back you go, much more shadowing will happen also. I'd need to see the bottom of the offset mount to tell how it would handle the out of spec rail. What makes it out of spec is the cut down the center of the rail. The way LaRue mount engages the rail, there is a metal block along the bottom of the mount that seats against the rail. The cut out sight groove of the rail offers less metal for the LaRue lug to engage. Duggan and Unobtainium damaged some LaRue mounts on the factory top rail. So I'm the guinea pig for the SideArmor rail. It has more metal to engage the lug than the stock top rail.

Mexico City?