StrangerDanger

I got the Phase 5 bolt release. It is a worthy upgrade. It adds a significant amount of function to the weapon without being a snag hazard. I was worried it would be obnoxiously large and in the way. It fit my SMOS billet lower perfectly. Even with the Norgon and the KNS pins (for my Timney trigger).

Some use the magazine tube as a makeshift standoff device for door breaching. It's roughly 3 inches or so longer than the barrel.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2623/3773853177_7901f23d30_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3773853011_f1c5a41bfb_o.jpg Mr. Pokey. This rifle needs a Daniel Defense front sling mount. I didn't like the free spinning LMT QD holes.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3085/3774660296_5b932aa3fb_o.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/3773853095_ac47eeff20_o.jpg

Here are a couple crappy shots of my MRP project. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3443/3773852979_b5618ae3fe_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/3773853315_d243017884_o.jpg

Here are a couple shots of those Ergo grip wire looms. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2479/3774660536_16ce2dbfac_o.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2555/3774660494_daff3535cd_o.jpg

For what it is worth, Kip's magazine tubes are marked as being produced in the USA.

23 rounds weighs about 40 - 46 ounces. On the end of a shotty? No thanks!

It reminded me of the Troy Industries muzzle device. Currently I use a Vortex that has carbide strike points at the tip. Hopefully my bolt release will come in tomorrow. My sights came in today and are waiting for me at home.

Could you list the imported parts?

I got those rail covers today from Ergo grip. They worked out great for my project. Much better than the zipties I was using. The FDE color matched my other ladder rails. I sold some junk, so I got some of my other wanted upgrades for the MRP build. I ordered a BAD copy from Phase 5 like Duggan has. I had a Wilson Combat billet bolt release, but I hate it. It split my hand open during training due to the sharp edges on it. It was also a snag hazard. It's bound for gunbroker when I get this one in. I shot an e-mail over to the guys at failzero to see it it would be possible to coat the LMT's BCG. I asked them to see if receiver extensions, piston assembly, uppers and barrel extensions could be coated also. Maybe this is something I can look into for the Benelli also. My wife definitely did good with the sights. They should be here tomorrow.

If that deal falls through, let me know. I'll buy you a brand new pistol grip. Steve

I got my MRP piston rather quick. I cheated and sniped one on Gunbroker. No way in **** was I waiting till the end of 2010. Currently I'm using a Magpul M93B stock. I have a rare FDE one, so it looks good on my desert layout. I've used the M93 series since the very first prototype. The UBR is probably better. I may upgrade down the road when they are more available. I have to send the barrel off and have it profiled down to remove some weight. I'm going to leave it at 16" so I can interchange muzzle devices. The inch and a half of length isn't worth having to pin a muzzle device on. To me at least. I'm going to put an Aimpoint T-1 on it and maybe an Aimpoint magnifier on a Larue mount that rolls to the side. I haven't decided on the magnifier yet. My wife bought me a set of Troy Industries FDE flip up sights. I liked them better than the magpul ones. The mbuis's just seem rather big. The cost is great, but I'd rather the bomb proof Troys. More importantly, I think my order of 20k small rifle primers shipped from Wideners. So I can feed the beast. Next step is to buy 80 pounds of TAC powder. Literally. Yes, I'm one of those evil hoarding bastardss. I process and shoot enough to wear out two Dillon tumblers in less than a year. When Obama thinks of rooms like I have devoted to making ammunition and working on guns, a single reat runs down his cheek like the indian. If the switch cable is long enough, your wire routing plan should work. Worst case is you'll have to go over the top and modify the ladder rail so the cable can pass under it.

I find them to be okay for knocking the big stuff out of a barrel. In handguns and rifles, I prefer to use jags to remove lead and copper fouling. In my 12 gauge, I do any final passes with a tornado brissle brush. That thing peals the lead off, literally. At the end of the barrel, there are flakes of lead. I've shown people in the past that if you don't clean the boresnake often, you'll simply be transfering debris back into the barrel. I cleaned a barrel with a jag until it was completely clean. I then passed a boresnake through once. I then ran a jag down the bore. The patch had a lot more crap on it. There is no way the boresnake is pulling up more debris than a properly sized jag. I do cleanings after every range trip. My range is the Mojave desert. So sand and crap get everywhere.

One concern you might want to address is removal of the barrel from the weapon with the wire routed between the barrel and the rail. When I pull my barrel, the collar that seats against the receiver scrapes along the bottom of the rail. The Scout is consevatively rated at 125 lumens. Most people believe it is really between 175 and 190. Even with my Scout there is some barrel shadow. It's pretty much unavoidable. If the Surefire X300 could be modified so the paddle levers were momentary switches rather than constant on, I would have strongly considered using it and just hitting the lever with my thumb. Pushing the switch forward didn't feel right. This would require it be mounted on the left side. I also prefer the right side mount for sling carry. I'm encountering this problem with my MRP that I don't want a FVG on. Currently there is no offset mount available. I tried the LaRue I have on the left side. It works, but it could be better. I could go with a tape switch setup, but I rather not. Did you get the shell carrier? How did you like it if so?

Sounds great. Take some photos when you get a chance.

3/32 seemed to fit well. I don't have the instructions anymore from GG&G. It's been 4 or 5 years. Using an alignment pin will make the job even easier. While it does suck to buy costly tools, I find it better than the alternative. I guess you could buy just a single punch, but it seems it would be smarter to just buy a complete set. Most other rifles and handguns have pins that these can be used on. The roll pin holder set will make your life easier.

One issue with the GG&G oversized bolt release is it can be a cheese grater for your hand. Also, you should have bought it from Brownells with the discount. You would probably get it quicker. It would be shipped from out of State (arizona) to avoid sales tax. It is mandatory that you have the proper sized punch to remove this device. Trying to skate by with a drill bit or some other bubba'smith method won't work. You will end up marring the **** out of the receiver. The pin traverses the receiver rail that the BCG reciprocates within. So you have to drive the pin to an exact depth in order to avoid binding. This is easy to do with quality tools. If you don't have a good set of punches, I recommend these: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=30394/sku/Starrett_Pin_Punch_Set_#565/827525860 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=45715/sku/Roll_Pin_Starter_Punch_Kit/080000241 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3016/sku/Roll_Pin_Holders_Set/080685000 Pay attention to where the bolt release spring seats before you disassemble. The spring is not held in place or indexed by anything. It's simply held between the release and the receiver. Note where this place is, to avoid future headaches and guesswork. I had the GG&G oversized bolt handle for a while also. I noticed that the carrier was more sluggish due to the added weight. The GG&G unit is approximately 24.5 grams. The stock unit is 12.5 grams. I would opt for the Titanium model from Design Concepts, but they were sadly discontinued. Kip is releasing a Titanium model in the near future. I predict the machining will be better on Kip's than on the DC model. The knurling was poorly done on the DC handle (cosmetic issue only).

Probably looking for the guy on there who bought my used FN PS-90 for 2400 bones.

Glad you like it. I could never wait till the weekend to install something like that. I'm going to get a few of those ladder rails you posted with the wire loom in them. I think that will clean up my top rail and get rid of the zip-ties. I deburred the zip-ties, but there is still a hand hazard there. Do you have the 5.5mm wrench for the front sight post?

http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=134462199 99 Bucks plus shipping for this:

I wouldn't use a torch on the receiver. Only a heatgun. The only place a torch is needed is on the receiver extension. The average heatgun just doesn't have the balls. Vests do suck in the summer. The guys in Iraq have it worse though. Much worse.

Hottest city in North America. Bullhead City, Arizona. It's humid today and I'm on patrol outdoors. Sucks big floppy donkey dong.

I can't recall if my receiver had locktite from the factory or not. I removed it like 5 years ago. You'll want the locktite with the Sidearmor because there are no lock washers used. The replacement bolts are hexhead. Be careful not to overtighten and strip the threads in the receiver. They don't have to be loose by any means, but don't crank them down like a lug nut. I didn't bother to put locktite on my new mag tube. I like the ability to pull it during cleaning. I scrapped shooting this week since it is 122 degrees in the shade, and there aint much shade. Even at night it is 105.

It wasn't needed on mine. It wouldn't hurt if they're stuck or you can't get a good bite on the screw. Be careful not to loose the washers that are under the screw. They usually remain stuck in the hole. I used blue locktite on the SideArmor replacement screws.