StrangerDanger

The match between the Sidearmor and the Larue isn't the best due to the center cut. However, I haven't had any damage to my rails from either the LaRue Scout light or the Aimpoint T1 mount. I've put quite a bit of buck and slugs through the gun, all high brass. I followed Mark LaRue's suggestion of tightening the mounts so tight that it is hard to get closed and a real sumbitch to get open. Also, when you seat the mount, pull the indexing lug all the way to the rear so it is pressed against the rail before you lock it down.

I'd like to see a picture of the woman that they were willing to try to kill over.

I see them on gunbroker at times. They're not cheap. Usually over a 1000 bucks. For that price, I'd buy another M4.

The patina of the M4 varies throughout different production runs. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/4116275541_9ff4eb7a5e_b.jpg Here is a shot of the ti tube. You can see the difference from the barrel. It is barely noticable.

The snap ring is meant to flex. Kip may not respond for a while. He's on some road trip to pick up some equipment. I'm awaiting a second tube myself. It was supposed to be shipped a month ago. Maybe it is in the mail, who knows. There is no better tube though. So grin and bare it.

Looks like your BRD is terminal. My condolences.

Buy it and sell it if you hate it. I sold a used one with the tri rail, and 6 50 round magazines for 2400 dollars to some guy on gunbroker. He stomped the BIN button. It had the crap clear reticle too. The only use for this gun would be in a SBR config. Full auto would be better. The trigger is terrible. I hated the design of the safety. It was very difficult to mount a light on and have momentary control over the output. My thumbs hit each other when holding it properly. It felt slower to point than my SBR Ar15 due to how close your hands are when holding it. I didn't like the magazine design. It was slow to index a new magazine, and slap it into place. Fat guys (not me) complained that the brass was bouncing off their beer belly after every shot. It is a very difficult round to reload. Ammunition prices are on par with .223. I couldn't get over the ergonomics. So it had to go. The clear reticle flat out sucks. It needs an Aimpoint T1 bad. That's the bad. The good is it is super reliable. Never had a single failure. 50 rounds on tap is awesome. The weight is minimal. There is no recoil. The round is potent in CQB ranges. It is very easy to maintain. I'm amazed it is allowed in californiastan.

Making pistons is harder than it seems. Finding the proper heat treatment is the key. Too hard and they snap. Too soft and they deform.

You need a pair of snap ring plyers to move the front sling mount. Pop off the snap ring, pull the sling mount off and reindex it how you want. The pistons are attached to the barrel assembly. They protrude into the receiver and imping against the front of the bolt carrier. The pistons are free floating. So if you shake the weapon with the bolt locked to the rear, you'll hear and see them sliding back and forth approximately half an inch. I soak my pistons in Hoppes. Then hit it with a wire brush to remove all the carbon buildup. Nothing is then applied. I do not know what type of steel they are, but I have never noticed any rust. I read that they are stainless?

I don't know how you can sleep with unwrapped toys laying around. The urge to try the trigger would motivate me enough to stay up and put it in before bed.

No Go for the pop pop machine. My 13 month old has one. It clearly says it is made in China. Therefore, it doesn't qualify as a US made device and is subject to regulation. Unless you switch enough balls with US made balls. You don't want Eric Holder coming to your house.

Has Sure Cycle stated anything for the M4? I would love to get my M4 cycling faster. I've been considering an internal coating like NP3 or the newer FailZero to increase lock time. I hate that damn disconnector issue.

Assuming you have a proper punch set, the GG&G bolt release is pretty easy. Just pay attention to how the spring indexes before you remove the factory unit. I like the desert tan pictures. The M80 looks pretty cool on it. I'm not a fan of the GG&G charging handle though.

Any real world use indicating if the compensator has any effect whatsoever?

Newer Colt's have small pins and small take down pins too.

ADCO is great. One of the fastest companies I've ever dealt with. I had a 8 day turn around for my barrel to get contoured and threaded. That counts my shipping there and back.

The Brownells one works fine. The only reason I got one was to add a US made part.

I've never done it before, but I've heard you need a propane torch. Then you must keep the flame localized to the large nut on the recoil tube extension. The torch is hot enough to discolor the receiver, so keep it on the receiver extension.

I'm pretty sure you have a small pin lower. .154" pin. Large pin trigger groups are on older Colt lowers. The KNS pins damage the C-clips inside the trigger pack.

Keep your eye on gunbroker. I got my Geiselle SSA for 200 bucks new. The SSA is the one you want. No adjustments to worry about. Keep the KNS pins away from these triggers.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/3706079753_42303b5ca6_b.jpg

Sounds safe then. The biggest risk to the finish will be the vice.

As for the camo finish, I would be careful. I never handled one, so I'm not sure if it is paint or a film. I'd pull the trigger group and direct the heat at the old magazine tube so the hot air is blowing down the pipe. This will heat mostly the inside of the receiver. Chances are, the finish would be fine to heat like normal, but I would use caution and use only enough. Kip would probably be able to give a difinitive answer on the camo's heat resistance.

I didn't bother with locktite when I installed the new magazine tube. I just tightened it firmly by both hands while the receiver was in the vice. 500 - 1000 rounds later and half a dozen disassemblies later, it hasn't moved. Locktite won't hurt to use, but sometimes it is nice having the option to remove the magazine tube for more detailed cleanings. Also, surface IR readings may not be the same as what the temperature around the threads are. A heatgun has almost no chance of causing damage. So cook it till it unscrews by hand. It'll break free an eith of a turn then stop. Add more heat and repeat until it is removed. I don't like the strap wrench because it will give you enough torsional twisting power to twist the aluminum receiver. No action blocks are available, so you must use caution when applying torque.

Mounting a light on a M4 is not easy and not cheap either. Developing how you intend to activate it is the biggest hurdle. Particularly if you intend to use the light in a momentary fashion. The best mounting solutions revolve around the Sidearmor rail mount. Most other options that replace the hand guard obstruct your support hand placement. Meprolights are excellent night sights for the M4. They provide tritium for the rear ghost ring sight also. You'll need a 5.5mm open ended wrench to replace the front sight. You could use double sided tape for a shell carrier. It might work okay with a cheapie from Tacstar. I would opt for the buttstock carrier on a budget.