StrangerDanger

I looked for the tape switch mod run down I did, I think it was in the thread about the Aimpoint T1. I'll give it a basic run down on what was involved with some pictures. I bought the Surefire Scout light from LaRue in desert tan. It came with the LaRue mount, a 7" tape switch and a tail cap switch. I sold the 7" tape switch on Gunbroker for about 40 bucks and bought a 40" tape switch from Surefire. On the factory M4 pistol grip stock, the rubberized grip simply pulls off. It is tension fit to the stock. Just work it back and forth. Notice that the pistol grip itself is hollow. The hole does not go all the way through into the interior of the stock.

I'll find the link at home. It's tough to copy and paste url's on my *******. It is rather involved to do the mods. I used the 40" switch. Excess is stored inside the buttstock. There wasn't much extra really. Surefire has changed how they rate lumen output recently. I have two ED2 Combat light's that are rated at 150 and 200 lumens. Both are generally the same output. Both have identical runtimes. I bet we will see the X series and Scout lights re-released with the uprated output. I expect to see some of it at SHOT this year. The flashlight nerds have a lumen meter and that is where I got the actual ratings from. Another thing that is important is the reflector. The Surefire TMI reflector will throw the beam further. When we compared the X series to the 125 lumen XTI Procyon weapon lights, the Surefire was an easy winner in every field but price. Both the Scout and the x series look the same when it comes to beam quality and brightness. Even though the Scout is rated a little higher, it is impossible to tell. Battery freshness dictates the brightness more than the difference between the two. Hookster is right about the plug. The 90 degree angle plug is a better design.

Just for info, the Scout light is considered to have an output of 175 - 190 lumens. Same for the X300 and X400.

A receiver and extensions will fit in your oven?

Pictures for baby Jesus. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2612/4116275373_087f806e0b_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/4116275541_9ff4eb7a5e_b.jpg

How many days are you stuck waiting? The bolt release can be tricky to install. A proper punch is mandatory. I recommend blue painters tape to cover the receiver to protect the finish. Pay close attention to how the spring is seated between the bolt release and the receiver. If I recall, GG&G's instructions weren't very good. Buy the release from Brownells with a LAw Enforcement discount. That'll save you 30 bucks. I sold my old release for 30 dollars on gunbroker. This helps offset the cost. Design Concepts is currently the only bolt handle worth owning. Stick with the stock unit until you find one, or Kip releases his. Take a look at Mesa Tactical. They're releasing a shorter LOP stock early this coming year. Another benefit is it counts as a US made part. Throw a titanium magazine tube on and a US made magazine tube follower, and you'll cover yourself legally. What do you plan on mounting to the SideArmor? I've got a 11707 due in around Christmas. I have most of the small parts already like a titanium tube. Next year, I hope to buy a desert M4 also.

The SideArmor top rail does not block the sights due to the center cut down the top rail. If you put a ladder rail cover on the top, you will only be able to see the top of the front sight post. I agree with the wires. I hate them. They're easy to damage, suffer from the firearms heat, easily ripped off in the field and just all around suck. Pressure switchs are crap too. They're easily damaged, easily ripped off and they usually hinder your aiming while you're changing your grip on the forearm. They're more likely to be a source of an accidental discharge of light than tail cap buttons. I've thought about a remote switch also. If I recall, Magpul was experimenting with the idea back when they were developing the MIAD grip. They wanted to install a micro switch in the front grip piece and have its power source inside the removable core. The receiver activation cap would then be installed on the weapon light/laser. This would give a CTC laser grip type activation without any wiring. It never really panned out though. One issue is the light would be drawing power constantly listening for an activation signal. I'm pretty sure I am going to SHOT this year, so I will be looking around at some of the new options coming out this year. Surefire has a butt load of products that are being developed in the activation area. However, if they are anything like the XT07 switch, I won't use them ever. The platic rail mount for the pressure switch is absolute crap. You can knock it off with you pinkie. Saying all that, I do use an evil tape switch on my Benelli. No other option seemed remotely functional to me. Few are as willing to cut their stock up like I did though.

Require a cited essay in MLA format on why they need the handle also. 1500 words.

What optic were you guys using? I wonder if the weight of the package increases damage? The factory rail is a real POS. Even my Accucam from GG&G for my old EOTech 552 damaged the rail. That had a full cross bolt too. Someone paid 30 bucks for that piece of crap on gunbroker.

It ain't that tough to open. I can open it with one hand. No deformation to the side of the rail where the cam rubs. It's hard to describe the amount of tension needed. The best combination is a light optic or light, and a properly tightened mount. Seat it against the lug when locking the mount. This will give it no where to move to and cause damage.

A 100 million people have been horribly murdered by their Governments in the past 100 years. Everyone should have the tools and the skills present to act as a deterent. Take a walk down memory lane. Consider the events happening in Nanking, China during the Japanese invasion. Take a look at the photos from the era. Millions of Chinese women were raped. From infant to 100 year old women. They were raped to the point that when a hole was worn out, they'd use their bayonet to make a new one. These same people stood at the doorsteps of America at that time. Being the rifle behind every blade of grass made them think twice about an invasion here on the mainland. I highly recommend getting a battle rifle as well. I don't know how much bread you have left; but I would consider a reloading press also.

If I remember, I'll measure my spring. I've left mine loaded for 6 months and put 750 - 1000 rounds through it.

great taste! Have to throw down also. The desert models. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2548/3949936688_433086b258_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2610/3988993659_71edbe8df8_b.jpg

According to Kip, the top rails, comps and the bolt handle will be ready to go in January. Yeah, we know how those release dates go... Given that they're 6 months behind his initial release date, it is possible.

Spoke with Kip today. He said that his charging handles are done, and are off to the finisher. He plans to release them in January. But we all know how that goes... Just FYI.

Tornado Brush is the best. It works amazingly well.

It comes with the rubber bikini style covers. The GG&G mount is quite heavy along from way too tall for the Benelli M4. Personally, I don't use any kind of cover when in the field. They're too slow to remove.

How much do you intend to spend? The Surefire X400 is the top of the line. However, how you mount it is going to be key. The SideArmor is probably the best. I didn't like the M80 for mounting the light/laser because it put the unit in the way of my hand on the hand guard. How you activate it will be up to you. There are several options. Be it to use the rear stock switch or a XT07 pressure switch. An XT07 and a Surefire M80 rail to mount the switch to would be the best. Expensive though.

Is there any data how they handle obstacles like a car door? I only looked a little bit, but I didn't see a price. How much each?

How do you intend to mount it?

Buy one. They're cheap. You don't want to strong arm the tube free. You risk twisting the receiver.

Does KAC make a low mount version for the T1?

It's on sale currently. http://www.sidearmor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=46 Here are some weight break downs to consider: Benelli M4 Factory Handguards: 5.0 Ounces Surefire M80 Rail System: 7.9 Ounces Surefire Ladder Rail: 0.4 Ounces Daniel Defense Picatinny Rail Sling Mount: 1.5 Ounces Magpul XTM Panel (two pieces): 0.25 Ounces Factory Top Rail with screws and washers: 1.59 Ounces SideArmor top rail with no side rails: 10.3 Ounces SideArmor Long Side Rail: 1.1 Ounces SideArmor Short Side Rail: 0.5 Ounces SideArmor Shell Carrier: 4.0 Ounces Titanium Full Length Tube: 5.5 Ounces Factory Magazine Tube Plus Limiter: 10.6 Ounces Surefire X300: 3.7 Ounces Surefire X400: 4.4 Ounces Surefire Mini Scout M300A: 4.5 Ounces Surefire Scout M600C: 5.26 Ounces The M4 is quite heavy to begin with. So plan what accessories you intend to install carefully. Remove as much weight as possible. When installing the SideArmor, you remove the top rail, so there is some weight reduction there. Remember, adding an extended magazine tube not only add's additional capacity, but it adds two rounds worth of weight that you must contend with. Given that a typical 12 gauge round weighs approximately 2 ounces, you can see how the weight can add up quick. I even removed the factory front sling mount to save on a fraction of an ounce. This is the beauty of Kip's magazine tube. The reduction in weight you receive is balanced out by the added weight of the additional capacity. When you start picking what light and optic to mount, weight should be your primary concern. Light's like the Surefire X300 are about as light as you can get. How you want to activate the weapon light will be key.

The out of spec they speak of is different. They refer to the loose tollerances on rail dimensions. This is the reason for the adjustment nut on the LaRue and others. It allows you to adjust the mount to adapt for any changes in rail dimension.

Since mounting both, I'd say I've put 500 rounds of birdshot (low brass), approximately 25 high brass slugs and about 100 rounds of high brass 00 buck through it. Some 2.75" and some 3.00". There doesn't even appear to be a contact mark against the rail where the LaRue's recoil lug seats. I think a big key to it is not to mount overly heavy items and to tighten the crap out of the throw lever. I can still get it off with one hand, but you need a kung fu grip. I don't have any of Unobtainium's elephant gun rounds, but the 3" magnum's should be an okay test bed. The ADM mount is also nice. I prefer the LaRue though.