StrangerDanger

Great job!

There are several rail covers that are offered that will mount a tape switch to the rail. Some switches are made specifically to mount to the rail itself. Hookster has a switch mount like this. In the past, I drilled four holes into the factory handguard. I placed the switch where I wanted and ziptied it into place.

Arizona is in the process of loosening its concealed carry laws. They want to eliminate the permit requirements for concealed carry. The permits will still exist though. The permit will allow for legal carry inside some restricted areas such as bars or restaurants that serve alcohol. Plus, the permit offers reciprocity with other States. When I travel go on my weekly desert trips, my Benelli M4 or my AR15 is loaded and on safe held between the driver and passenger seat muzzle towards the floor board. No one cares. If you get pulled over, they might ask where you're heading and tell you to have a good time. When I go to the Communist State of Kaliforniastan, I have to lock the weapon in a box, then lock the ammunition in a separate box. That's assuming the weapon is legal in the State. I'd agree though, that Alaska would be overall better. The main reason is, there are unfortunately a lot of douche bags from Kaliforniastan here in Arizona. The 720L is nice. I wish they better activation solutions though. The tape switch option will work fine on my Benelli, but on my AR15, I really don't like the tape switch option.

I don't see a flag. So it is either a 11703 or a 11707. I'd have to see the receiver extension or the barrel where it seats against the receiver to determine which of those two it is. I'm betting it is an 11707 though due to the colored Asian markings on the receiver.

That valuepack stuff is great for practice or just busting clays. I have about 6,000 rounds of it on hand. Walmart sells Remington 2 3/4 00 buckshot pretty cheap. It's around 10 dollars for 15.

Take the plug out. See if this jam happens when the magazine tube is full vs. near empty. This will indicate if it is a weak magazine spring. Next. Try limp wristing it on purpose. Does this increase the rate of failure? It is possible that the recoil spring is weak. Replacing mine cured my sluggish performance in a different model than you have. Also, check the bolt release for damage. Its paw is what releases a shell from the magazine tube. Further, inspect the magazine tube for dents. Check the follower also. Ensure that the plug is not binding in the tube and causing failure.

I can just see cameltoe sneaking around in the dark with heavy breathing trying to touch some girls hair. IR lasers are pretty hard to get here since they're not legal for civilian purchase. They're legal to own, you just can't buy one. Many people modify visible light lasers into IR ones. Some of the guys over at ar15.com probably do that. They might indicate a path to take. When that 350 lumen m720 comes out, I plan to replace my m600c Scout Light with it. It should drop right in on my M4's activation setup. Don't plan to see these m720's till summer at the earliest.

Why do you want IR? You run night vision? Take a look at the new series from Surefire called the M720. There are three models. A standard 200 lumen unit. A combo unit that is 150 lumens and has an intergrated IR filter. Then my personal favorite, a 350 lumen output monster. It even strobes. At 350 lumens, a strobe will melt the face off of someone like the Nazi in the raiders of the lost arc. If you want a visible laser, a Surefire X400 is very nice. 170 lumen light output too. It'll accept the XT07 tail assembly if you want a tape switch.

Maybe he's heading to Saipan?

The M4 runs better wet. The Argo plugs are easily removed. It isn't recommended that you disassemble them. Soak them in solvent and blast them out with breakfree if you're anal. Do not oil them. Adding a light is complicated and expensive depending on how you want to activate the light. Mesa has a cheap barrel clamp that doesn't hamper disassembly. No luck on a bayonet mount. Prices are stable around 1400 - 1450 for a new black 11707 model. Don't count on seeing cheaper for a new one. Ever. Benelli has nothing new for it on the horizon. Any solutions will be aftermarket.

Miscommunication. I thought he was trying to just remove the stock from the receiver. The recoil pad has two small holes you must inset a philips screw driver into.

I suggest seeking training for low light close quarters combat. Many of the older weapons will work okay for a static fight. However, if I bring you into a confined area such as your house at night how you commonly light your home and ask you to defend your position with a coach gun, you may find it difficult to ID your target before sending them to their maker. I don't even like my SBR, let alone a 18.5" Benelli in close quarters where doors and other barriers must be navigated. For this, a uber reliable handgun with an attached weapon light is the best option. In your other hand should be a hand held flash light. Pick a caliber and an ammo that is easy to control, since you may be firing on handed and in difficult positions. Robberies rarely start like in a gay brinks commercial. They don't beat your door down in a mask. They knock on your door and ask for assistance. Better criminals indicate that they are the police. Use of a phone or faked emergency. Are you going to answer your door dragging your double barrel? Unlikely. You think you can swing a double barrel at arms reach of an attacker and make a shot? A smart move is to get yourself a steel security door. That will allow you to speak to whoever is there with a barrier between you. They usually cannot see in, but you can see out. A holstered pistol or a pistol in hand out of sight is the better option.

It might be tight, but it just unscrews. A padded vice might help a lot. Or two people if it is really tight.

Unscrew it from the receiver with the trigger group removed.

I looked around. I couldn't find anything from anyone but them. Sorry. Try calling them. Maybe they can give you a time frame to expect. If they're waiting on the bolt release assembly from Benelli Italy, you may be waiting a while.

There is always the GG&G pad from Brownells. If you have not ordered the replacement parts for your front sight, it would be a good time.

Any time you mail stuff overseas, you have to fill out a customs slip. Each country has different rules and regulations on what can and cannot be brought in. Some countries even ban the posession of tritium.

I would get the orange in the rear. The reason being that the rear tritium is only used to help align your face to the rear ghost ring. You do not want a very bright rear set. It's so close to your face that it is a blur. It is useless to try to use a traditional three dot alignment. Try it out for yourself. Cover the white dots on the rear with tape and go into a dark room with the standard glowing white sight. Try to shoulder the weapon, find the ghost ring and align your face to the weapon. Now try it with the dots uncovered and charged. I would just get the meprolights. It will be hard to export a radioactive isotope on a customs form I bet.

I was surprised too. I had expected the guard to cost at least 20 bucks. ****, they charge 5 bucks just for one of the o-rings for the ARGO system. They got me for 20 - 25 bucks for the retention clip that retains the magazine spring in the mag tube. I had to buy one since my M4 never came with one. It's a good idea to replace that nut so the nylock is in good condition. My older M4 didn't even have a nylock washer in it.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23653/Product/FRONT_SIGHT_PROTECTION_GUARD Here ya go. I recommend replacing this part also: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23654/Product/FRONT_SIGHT_RETAINING_NUT

The wood in front of the barrel and slightly above shows signs of being cloned in photoshop. You can see the same wood grain has been copied several times.

Ion Bonding is applied in a similar fashion as NP3, so it's an all or nothing process. Its strength is predicated on the material it is applied to also. So Ion Bonding on steel will be more durable than say on aluminum. The benefits of a paint on based finish are color options. Their lubricant properties aren't as good as a teflon based finish like Black-T or Rogaurd. However, they have a lot more color options and can be retouched when needed. It can also be applied to plastics too for color continuity.

On the exterior, the teflon doesn't really matter. It's about metal parts rubbing on each other. On handguns, it's quite durable to holster wear. Much moreso than regular anodizing. Often times parts are dip coated. So the entire frame or receiver is then coated evenly in a finish such as NP3. For cosmetic reasons, a black teflon finish would then be applied to the outer surface. The Np3 finish is superior, but only comes in matte or satin nickel finish. Ion bonding has a very dull flat black finish. Here is a photo of the magazines I had coated in it. It is very similar to the melonite finish on the XDm. Another advantage to Ion Bonding is how thin it is. It is only a few microns thick. So tolerance tightening isn't as much of an issue. The finish on your SideArmor rail will be very similar to the way Ion Bonding looks. It's Type 3 anodizing is different than the anodizing on the two Benelli M4's I have. Unless you're coating an entire weapon, I wouldn't worry about coating the rail assembly. The only reason I would coat it would be to make everything match evenly. The barrel assembly of the M4 is almost always a lot different than the receiver. They generally have a dull dark grey to medium grey finish.

Black T is considered one of the best finish. It's used on Benchmade blades, and it holds up very well. Most old finishes will be chemically stripped off before being refinished. The absolute toughest black finish will be Ion Bonding. However, it doesn't have much in the terms of lubrication properties. It is limited to the types of materials that it can be applied to. I had an ion bonded bolt carrier group, Noveske barrel and all of my XDm magazines are coated in it. It's extremely durable. My BCG never showed any signs of wear. I'd still rather have the NP3 though, because of the lubricant properties. I would rather have a black finish also, but sometimes the benefits are worth the trade off. Most companies will refinish small parts for a fee. They usually frown on doing extremely small parts like detents or bolts.

You're in Europe right? That may make things more costly, I'm not sure. I've found the Teflon based coatings to be extremely durable. I have over 15,000 rounds through this Beretta 92g Elite II that has a teflon coated frame. Even the frame rails have not worn the finish down. I carried this weapon on duty from 2002 till 2009. The decocker and trigger bar was not refinished. So you can tell how well the teflon has held up compared to the factory finish. More than just being more resistant to wear, it is self lubricating and very easy to clean.