StrangerDanger

Machinegunners lube from LaRue. It's cheap and it works great. It stays where you put it. The failure you are seeing is anemic ammunition. The bolt carrier barely opens fully before closing. If the bolt carrier doesn't open fully, it doesn't hit the ejector that is on the barrel assembly. A weak hit on the ejector leads to this type of failure where the bolt closes on a spent shell before it is fully ejected. Your bolt carrier link and rails should be slathered with oil. If the weapon is fairly new, it should be broken in with some high dram shells. Cool videos!

When I redid my rail covers, I tried it with and without the AFG. It was better with it. The texture on the TangoDown panels is great. It feels like the MIAD. The texture is recessed slightly so it doesn't hang up on your gear when slung. Even my wife likes them better than the smooth XTM's. I may add LaRue ladder pieces to the top rail instead of the ladder rails. Cosmetically, I think it would look better. I went ahead and ordered both black and UDE rail clips. I think black will look best along the spine.

Mesa Tactical has one that you mount at the pistol grip. It only works for the collapsible stock.

Thread resurrection! I got my Spikes Tactical 22lr conversion kit in last week. It's a ton of fun. It eats Federal 22lr bulk ammo like candy. Not a single failure with that brand of ammo. It hates Remington bulk pack stuff though. I had to stick a Bravo Company Warfighter charging handle in it because the PRI Gas Buster was too beefy and wouldn't fit over the end of the 22lr carrier. It's okay though, I like the Warfighter a lot more than the PRI one. The handle is easier to hit, and hurts less. I have 10 26 round magazines for it currently. Loading the magazines is the worst part. I think I need another 10 to 20 more magazines. It costs nothing to feed this thing. You can piss away a 1000 rounds without your bank account breaking a sweat. It was very easy to clean. The BCG was nickel plated, so the fowling simply wipes off. The barrel cleaned up very easily too. I added quite a bit of new things recently. I swapped out my rail covers for textured TangoDown ones that I cut to fit. They match the profile of the GearSector sling mounts and hand stops perfectly. They have a lot more texture than the Magpul XTM's do. I got ambidextrous sling mounts installed on my UBR stock. I added these so I can switch my sling to the opposite shoulder on really long hiking trips. I also added the heavier recoil pad so I could extend the overall length and move the cheek weld riser to the rear. This allows for a better cheek weld rather than having the gap between the tail and the buffer tube. Internally, I added a POF roller cam to help with carrier tilt. I bought a variable weight anti-cant buffer from HeavyBuffers. I had to send it back along with my carrier to have them matched since my carrier has an odd ball sized inner diameter. I added a Bravo Company extractor upgrade kit for the **** of it.

Good to see you back Kip. When you have a chance, can you give us a weight for your bolt handle? The last I heard, it was designed to be large enough to replicate stock weight. The size looks very similar to the Design Concepts model.

It's their first step into the polymer molding arena. They're taking it slow. Having a mold made is not cheap. Even a basic mold can cost 10,000 dollars to have made. Something more complex like a stock will likely be significantly more. Benelli likes to use jacka55 type screws and threads on their parts. So a lot of the hardware has to be custom made to fit. You don't get to just call up McMaster Carr and buy hardware. If I recall, the threading on the receiver extension that the fixed stock screws into is a real mickey mouse thread design for example. I expect additional delays from their revised release date in all honesty. Having it come together in under a year and still having it made in the US is pretty quick.

The urbino Mesa Tactical stock should be an option around late April or May.

I wouldn't worry too much about scratching or obstructing the glass on the Aimpoint. I was on a trip in the desert on Tuesday all day. We got hailed on, then snowed on for most of the trip. We covered approximately 4 miles, with about 1200 feet of elevation gain at around 4000 feet. A lot of water and snow collected on the optic. I randomly checked the optic to see how much it had been obstructed. I had little trouble viewing through it. It wouldn't really be worth the slowed down reaction time to have the lenses covered. They're not sealed anyway, so water would get in there anyway. You should try Daniel Defense to see if they plan to make a low mount for the T1. It is significantly lighter than any other option. No QD feature.

The CompM4 is quite heavy and large. I sold mine and went to a T-1.

Here looks like a good cheap light mount from Mesa Tactical. For your other compliance items, you want a US made Magazine Tube and a US made follower. I didn't care much for the Surefire rail system. It was okay, but I would rather have the factory forearm. It didn't make for a very good option for mounting a light directly to. Anything mounted to it seem to impede hand placement. It would be great if you were mounting a rail mounted tape switch though. Some of us were looking at how it would work when used with a Magpul AFG.

Your pricing is off. The Urbino stock was quoted to be around 200 dollars.

My 4 port barrel beat the bolt carrier so badly that it deformed the carrier where the piston inping. The deformation prevented the bolt carrier from cycling all the way to the rear without binding within the receiver. I began encountering increasing failures where the bolt carrier was stuck to the rear of battery. I'd have to give the charging handle a shove to get it to continue cycling. On the edges of the bolt carrier, the rails that guide the carrier within the receiver track were flared out from the repeated hits. The weapon had approximately 10k rounds through it at that time. 90% were low base birdshot. All the small parts in the bolt carrier group were replaced as well. Bolt, firing pin, firing pin spring, firing pin retainer, bolt cam... Pistons and ARGO plugs were new also. I'm not really sure why they replaced the handguards, but they did. Perhaps the newer generation barrels have a different handguard retainer. Benelli does many inline upgrades as well. I saw many small changes from my 11703 model to the upgraded 11707 barrel assembly that I was given. Further minor changes were noticed on my brand new 11707 I got in December.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. The replaced my barrel, bolt carrier and handguards on my Benelli M4 at my request in 2008 because it had a 4 port barrel. They promptly did the repairs within a month.

My issue with the old mount was the inability to route my tape switch to the pistol grip. Mesa has a barrel clamp that might work in some cases. It would allow the light to be mounted closer to the muzzle. It didn't interfere with disassembly either. Speaking of MRP's, I just bought a 22lr conversion kit for mine from Spikes Tactical. A dedicated 16" barrel, BCG and 10 magazines. A 16" barrel is roughly the length of a 14.5" .223 barrel since the chamber is set back in the 22lr. Trigger time is about to go way up!

I had one. I wish I hadn't sold it. You can mount a light further forward on it compared to the new design. It is a solid mount.

There are currently no knife laws in Arizona. The autostryker is one of the four knives I carry on me on duty. I also carry a cheap folding razor knife, a Spyderco Military model and a Wilson Cop Tool, which is more of a pry bar. I got the Spyderco for free, it's an okay knife. If you want a fast knife, get a fixed blade and cut out the middle man.

Funny, the US Army issues Benchmade Auto Stryker 9100's. I've had one since 2004 and have carried it every day since. Aside from the finish being worn off the blade, handle and belt clip, it functions perfectly. It is a servicable knife, which means any monkey can dissassemble it and put it back together. I removed the spine safety from mine with no negative effect. I've never replaced the spring. It is still very strong. If needed, replacement springs are easy to find online. The 154cm steel holds and takes an edge very well. The reinforced tanto blade profile is very tough. It has never broken off or chipped.

Hardware stores are the last thing I'd be checking out in Europe.

Are you having trouble with disassembly in some area? The M4 is one of the easier weapons I've had to field strip. Here is a better resource for seeing an exploded diagram of the weapon: ftp://ftp.benelli.it/Public/UM_SPL/G0227900.PDF It'll give you the official part number and the official name of each piece. Much of this is beyond field stripping. From it, you can extrapolate how certain parts come out though.

Reloading is your friend when it comes to 9mm and 45acp. You can lay a wake of destruction with 147gn 9mm subsonic hollow points for about 130 dollars per 1000. LRN pills are about 80 bucks a 1000. 45acp comes in at about 110 bucks a 1000 230gn LRN. About 140 for FMJ. I'm not sure how a Mac would like lead rounds. Full auto would require a reloader who knew what they were doing. One mistake and you wouldn't find out something was wrong until way too late. Mac's are tough weapons though. I knew a guy who was loading 45acp light to control the recoil in full auto. He screwed up, and the rounds started getting stuck in the barrel in full auto. About 8 bullets got stuck in the barrel one after the other until they filled the barrel down to the chamber and it wouldn't run anymore due to the next bullet seating up against the impacted bullet. The bullets all tapped out of the barrel, and no damage was visible.

CHECK I'll take a 9mm handgun of my choice, XDm and a 22lr High Standard.

What's the purpose for the handgun?

All the damage appears to be at the rear of the lug. It appears recoil is overpowering the hold of the locking lever and allowing the mount to slip towards the rear. Did you ever call SideArmor?

The roll pin holder eliminates the need for the plyers. I highly recommend them for anyone who works on weapons. I have awesome German made plyers, and they don't do half as well as the roll pin holder. You can drive it in either way. But you don't have a tactical corn cob holder to punch the pin out. Either way, rig up a slave pin to hold the assembly in place while you drive the roll pin in. As the pin is seated, it will push your slave pin out.

I think due to the design of the nut, a better quality wrench won't help much. It almost seems as if it has a slight taper on it. I considered grinding the round wrench down at the front so I could pass it below the nut. I figured I would do that if I couldn't get the nut tight enough with the open ended wrench. Once I began to feel the wrench start to strip past the high spots, I stopped. Bumps, hits and a 1000+ rounds later, it hasn't budged. If your sight is secure but just chewed up, I'd consider leaving it alone.