StrangerDanger

You can't get shorter bolts? Or, cut the bolts short enough?

I think I drove mine out from the top down. The reason being it is easy to slip off the pin from the bottom and scratch your receiver. I forget what size punch was required. You could try skeeters corn cob tool, but I'd opt for a punch and a 4 ounce hammer. Once you drive the pin out, the catch will fall away from the receiver. Pay attention to where the spring is before you remove the pin. There isn't anything that holds the spring in place. So once the pin is removed, you won't know where to put the spring exactly. When reassembling, use a smaller pin or a small drill bit to act as a slave pin. Put it in from thr bottom. This will hold the assembly together while you drive the roll pin in. Pay attention to how far the roll pin is driven in. It has to be deep enough that it doesn't stick up into the channel the bolt carrier reciprocates in. You don't want to drive it too far down either and have it poking out of the receiver. You could mark the punch with a pen while it is inserted through the top and resting on the factory installed roll pin. You'd know how far to seat it then for sure. You may reuse the old spring if you like. The spring supplied is the same. You can reuse the roll pin also if it isn't damaged during removal. A vice will make this job magnitudes easier. Remove the bolt carrier group, barrel and trigger pack. Specialty punch sets like a roll pin starter would make this even easier. If you're worried about the finish, use masking tape in layers to cover the work area.

5.5mm wrench, open ended one. There is no room for a socket. The Brownells link is a good place to buy the 10 dollar nut. I recommend you buy some other things to make the shipping charge hurt less. The nut is about 6.60 if you have a LEO account setup. Highly recommended. I had similar issues with my wrench. I put a drop of blue locktite on it to make up for any lack of torque that I couldn't get on the nut without rounding it. It along with the nylock washer in it should hold it in place. A 1000+ rounds later, and it hasn't shaken loose yet.

Confirmed, 3/32. ...er, 2.38125mm

Set the throw lever "Asian girl" tight to continue with the theme. If you can prevent any movement from the lateral tension, the lug shouldn't be load bearing. If the mount is allowed to slip under recoil, the mount will get toasted. It should be tight enough that it is a sumbitch to get open with one hand. I like the lever on the left side on the Benelli. It keeps the right side clear of obstructions. It can be an issue when using the bolt handle. Not an absolute deal breaker, but easier. Before you lock the lever, pull the mount against to the rear of the lug. This way the lug will be seated firmly against the rail when you lock the lever. It gives the mount nowhere to go. When testing it, I recommend firing a couple shells and check for any kind of contact marks before continuing.

If I remember when I get home tonight, I'll find out what size it is. Based off your findings, I believe it is 3/32. That would equal 2.38125 mm.

English (standard) tools are costly there?

Have you fired 3" magnum rounds with the factory/LaRue combo? Also, could you describe how tight you've adjusted the throw lever to?

Sounds like you need an English set of hex head wrenches.

The shottie is hot, good move keeping the extinguisher close at hand.

If you hate an Aimpoint, you'll loose less than the cost of the chicom unit reselling it. Your M4 will destroy that chicom unit in no time. You might get away with mounting one on an airsoft or pellet gun. When I sold my CompM4, I ended up selling the accessories and stock mount apart from the scope. I ended up breaking even. Look at the ADM and KAC mount when using it with the factory top rail. If you're using the SideArmor or Mesa Tactical top rail, you can also safely use the LaRue mount.

I think the 720 refers to the price. Seriously...

I talked to him on the phone. His top rail, bolt handle and muzzle break are due out at the end of march. I would not bet the farm on the release date though.

Stock Handle: 12.5 Grams GG&G Handle: 24.5 Grams Design Concepts Handle: 8 Grams Kip's is designed to weigh approximately what the stock charging handle does. However, it will be bigger than the Design Concepts handle.

Compare the heights of the LaRue and the KAC. I can't tell if they are the same. KAC is good stuff. You will be pleased.

Kip said today that he is aiming for end of March for the charging handles. His goal was to aim for stock weight or slightly under. So it will be larger than the Design Concepts.

Aside from the M3.

Please don't wear ladies stockings while you try hanging yourself with the Cobra sling. Do the responding Officer that favor.

Do you get the corn cob holder disassembly tool also?

When is the dremel coming out to modify it to work with the SideArmor rail? The bolt release looks interesting. It looks different than I had imagined. Do you find it easier to hit than the factory button? Buy a real punch set! Brownells has an awesome set. Lyman punches. Then get the roll pin holder set. Then get the roll pin starter set.

Unobtainium said the owner was in Afghanistan taking pictures of fauna or something. I'd stick with stock until Kip gets it together or if you can find someone selling their Design Concepts unit. Good luck with this though, people weren't selling for even 100 dollars. I need a second one or a similar model for my OD green M4.

I just looked at the FTT handle. It weighs 16 grams roughly. The factory handle weighs 12.5 grams. For comparison, the GG&G handle weighs 24.5 grams and the Design Concepts handle weighs either 7.5 or 8.5 gram (I forget off the top of my head). This is a case where lighter weight is superior. The lighter your Bolt Carrier Group is, the faster it will cycle. Stock weight should be the target goal for oversized handles. Lighter than stock is better though. You wouldn't think a small weight difference would matter, but it was obvious when switching between the GG&G and the Design Concepts. You could feel the weapon cycling more sluggishly. We hope Kip's will be under stock weight also.

Even though the SideArmor and Mesa Tactical top rails are out of true spec, they will not damage your mount when properly installed. The factory rail will destroy your mount in short order. I tried to contact Kip today for an update, but he is not answering and his mail box is full.

http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21396

You in the foreclosure or bankruptcy business? sell your old parts on gunbroker to reduce the cost of your upgrades when possible.