StrangerDanger

Heat gun is mandatory. Too much mechanical leverage will twist the receiver. So go get a heat gun for your wife to wrap up too. Oh, and snap ring pliers too.

Contact Surefire and cry about the loose fit. They might have a solution or replace it. The new LED models are nice. Same output as the Scout. Surefires customer service is top notch. I cried about my tail cap on my LX2 being hard to push to activate the high setting. Without even getting my serial number, they dropped a replacement tail cap and pocket clip in the mail.

Wha wha what??? You have to remove the limb saver pad to adjust the cheek riser? No thanks.

It's a 12mw visible green laser. I don't use it that much though. So I took it off a few months ago. The X300 has switches on the back of it. You activate them with your thumb. It's ambidextrous and doesn't require any tape switches. It's about the lightest light you can get. Fairly cheap too. I have plans to add the 350 lumen Surefire 720 RAID light when it's released. It won't likely be at the 12 o'clock position due to the height though.

That's the plan. This kind of pushed me that direction. The only hang up is I have to find a new receiver extension. My 11703 doesn't have the necessary groves cut to allow it to collapse. One bonus I've noticed lately is that the collapsible stocks have fallen in price. I need to find some good photos of the pistol grip section to see what it will take for me to modify it to accept my light setup.

Requiring tools to remove the stock is a big fail. On the plus side, the stock weighs about 5 ounces less than the factory one unless you get the model with the cheek rest. Then the weight is the same. I haven't decided what I am going to do. Since I have plans to SBS mine in 2011.

Top rail covers are LaRue Index clips. I need to buy some new ones. Mine are the UDE color painted FDE. Now they make a FDE color.

The wrench is only needed to swap barrels. Much easier to swap barrels with this wrench than what is required for typical AR15 rifle platforms.

No point to rent a heat gun. You can buy one for like 20 - 25 dollars from your hardware store. It has a lot of ancillary uses beyond this job. Some guys like color filled engravings. Crayon + heat gun = done. The job is easy. I have a hard time changing my own oil, and I've done several.

New jerkin' material taken today. Hiked to an old crack house and took some photos.

You can look into an ACR too. The SCAR is a good start due to the low weight. The MRP is the top shelf AR platform. The quick barrel change feature is more useful than most realize as I outlined with the 22lr conversion. My rifle clocks in at 9.5 pounds with a loaded 30 round mag. So a SCAR transition would drop me about 1.5 pounds. It's pretty ugly though and modifications are limited. You'd be happy with the Ruger. But you'd be happier with the LMT or LWRC. You'd probably end up buying both in the long run. I like the LMT because you can buy it in pieces. This spreads the cost out over time. Adding up total costs of builds is forbidden. The mostly aluminum AR series feels better than the plastic controls on the SCAR and ACR. No easy option for putting a SSA trigger in them either. If you buy a box rifle, you might be replacing parts you could have just bought once and gotten exactly what you wanted to begin with. I'd say anyone could assemble one of these rifles themselves. You'd be a better man for it too. Any problems that develop could be addressed by you. Successfully voided my warranty lastnight. The 45 degree selector is how it should have been since the beginning. 5 minutes with a hand file took care of the offending lawyer pin.

You'll like the MRP. You can get a Spikes Tactical conversion kit and shoot 22lr with a proper twist barrel. Pop the two bolts, and swap the barrels. Drop in the dedicated bolt carrier. Done. Blast away for 3 cents a round. Keep all your accessories and optics on the same weapon. Ballistics in 22lr match 223 within 75 yards. 26 round magazines are typical. 20 bucks each. Blow through a 1000 rounds and cost you a princely sum of about 45 bucks. Here is mine. I've done some other work since this photo though. I'm looking at a 45 degree selector on my desk right now from Battle Arms. I have to void my warranty later tonight. I'm in the process of going SBR too. Going the NFA Trust route. I had my barrels reprofiled as light as possible. If I were you, I'd watch gunbroker. You can get an upper for about 1200 - 1300. Just make sure you're looking at the piston models rather than the gas op ones. Then build the rifle up how you want it. Get a Spikes Biohazard or Tactical Innovations billet lower. In .223 In 22lr

I'd opt for the LMT piston operated Ar15 over the Ruger. Or maybe a FN SCAR. I don't bother cleaning my LMT. There is no point. It always works regardless. It doesn't get that dirty anyway.

Does it look like senior dremel could make it easier?

The F.I.S.T. is a mounting system for this. It's a new bayonet variant slated for fielding after the end of, "Don't ask, don't tell." ...and yes, it does come in FDE.

You'll be lucky if they ship next week. I haven't even bothered ordering the three I need yet. They keep hitting the normal production snafu's.

You are probably are fine. Drop the bolt carrier in and cycle the action. Feel any binding? Tweaked receivers usually bind when retracted to the rear. sounds like you just rattled its fillings beating on it.

Brownells for the win. If you're going to play gunsmith, buy the right tools for the job. Roll punches are an essential set of tools for this hobby. I place an order every 4 months or so with Brownells for odds and ends. At the same time, I throw on 50 - 100 dollars worth of tools. Over the past few years, I've gotten quite a collection of higher end tools. What you want is roll pin holders: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=781/Product/ROLL_PIN_HOLDERS Roll pin punches. Starrett are top shelf. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12625/Product/_565_PIN_PUNCH_SET You'll want alignment pins and roll pin starters. I can only link 2 per message. Watch their web based videos. They're helpful for showing you what they do. If you don't have a vice, you're really making this hard on yourself. A solid vice will allow all the energy you're using to remove a pin to actually be used against the roll pin itself. Rather than being absorbed by your leg or the carpet. This job is relatively easy with these tools and a few tips. Note where the spring is beneath the bolt release. It isn't obvious once the release is removed. Note the depth in which the factory roll pin is seated. You'll notice that the roll pin traverses the receiver rail that the bolt carrier group cycles in. You can half ass an alignment pin with an appropriate sized drill bit. Reassemble your new release and spring. Then insert the drill bit or alignment pin through the assembly to hold the parts together. This will give you more hands free in order to tap the new roll pin into place. As the new pin is tapped in, it will displace the alignment pin or drill bit. Be smart when using a vice. Remember that this is a thin aluminum receiver. You can crush the receiver fairly easy. Remember to protect your finish with some shop rags or soft jaw chucks. When placing the receiver into the vice, sit the bottom of the receiver against the vice. That way receiver won't be held by the jaws when hammering downward. All vices aren't the same. You really get what you pay for. The cheap commie vices these days suck. You're better off buying an old one from a garage sale. Replace the jaws if need. My two favorites are from the 70's and the early 1900's. The older one is massive and closes with authority. You couldn't hurt it if you tried. It probably weighs 300 lbs with its iron base. Seriously, get the roll pin holders. Ar15 bolt release? Installs in one try, no cussing. Check out Brownells quality pliers from Germany too. You'll throw all your other pliers in the trash.

1) After firing about 100 rounds, I took the gun apart to clean it. I noticed the tail of the bolt (the long skinny piece), near the end closest to the stock, has some shaving/chipping, and I can see silver metal where the black coating used to be. The marks are small (approx 0.60 cm), but are quite sharp and jagged. Is this normal wear while breaking in the gun? Completely Normal. The "tail" of the Bolt Carrier Group pivots in the cup of the receiver extension when cycling. 2) The gas pistons: while cleaning, I noticed some wear on the surface coating on the section of the pistons that are not enclosed. Is it a good idea to slightly lubricate those sections of the pistons? I am not considering lubricating the sections that are housed in the piston cylinders. Do not lubricate the pistons unless you like eating a ton of smoke when a shot is fired. I'd have to see the wear on the piston to comment if it is normal or not. Most likely it is fine. 3) What is the best way to clean inside the piston cylinders? Soak in Hoppes #9. I've had no issues with the o-rings being damaged from the Hoppes. I then blast them out with a little Gun Scrubber to remove any residue. Honestly, cleaning isn't even needed on these parts. Lubrication is more important than perfectly clean. I only bother cleaning for either something to do or after a few thousand rounds. Or, if it gets wet. 4) How reliable are the o-rings for the gas system? How long do they last, and will the gun work with damaged/missing o-rings in an emergency? How can I get replacements? The weapon will function without an o-ring in place. ****, the weapon will cycle with only one piston. I don't recommend this, but it's nice to know that it will work. 5) I noticed that the o-ring which holds the firing-pin locking pin in place is chipped (I believe it came chipped when I bought the gun). When cleaning the gun after shooting, that locking pin is always a bit loose. Is this normal? Where can I find replacement o-rings? Brownells sells a replacement. 6) A local armorer told me that it is fine to use CLP Break-Free for cleaning and lubricating, and use nothing else besides that. Benelli's manual says only to use their oil, but it is hard to find. Also, the military's manual for the M4 says "any" quality cleaner/lube is fine to use. What are your opinions? CLP is alright, but I prefer the Machinegunners lubricant sold by LaRue Tactical. It's thicker and stays where you put it. 7) How often do you find yourself re-tightening the choke? After every shooting session, maybe 20-40 rounds, I find the choke very lose (but still on the threads properly). Will there be damage or poor performance if I do not tighten it every 20-40 rounds? I am using a cylinder choke for slugs/buckshot. You need to tighten it down more to begin with. It shouldn't be coming loose that easily. 8) Has anyone had trouble with ghost-loading (keeping a shell held in the carrier for an extra round)? Ghost loading will work, but I've experienced stoppages when doing it. I don't recommend it for defense loading. Firing Pin Retaining Pin http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50290/pid=0/sku/Firing_Pin_Retaining_Pin Gas Piston O-Ring http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=50266/pid=0/sku/Gas_Plug_O_Ring You can take the o-ring off, and go to your hardware store and buy them for about 10 cents each instead. I'm not certain what the specific size is.

Holy crap. 14 pounds on a single point sling? Sadist!

I still don't understand why you have to unscrew the buttpad from the stock to install this. Looks like you just unscrew the stock, slip the mount over the receiver extension. Screw the stock back into place. What am I missing?

The owner of Design Concepts went to Afghanistan.

I plan on buying 2 of Kips for my other M4's. Design Concepts may have a slight edge up on Kip's since he was targeting stock weight while Design Concepts went for super-lightweight. Stock: 12.5 grams GG&G: 24.5 grams Design Concepts: 8.5 grams When your shooting your Benelli fast enough to hit the dreaded disconnector issue, any speed increase in cyclic time is a benefit. The GG&G handle seriously slowed down the cyclic rate on my weapon. The problem was exasperated by a worn out mainspring. If you've shot 5,000 rounds through your M4, replace the spring. They're cheap and pretty easy to replace. Also, congratulations are in order, since 99% of all civilian M4's never make it that far. I read on the internet that Jesus uses Design Concepts bolt handles on his M4's. Design Concepts Porn

Duggan, quit trying to make me buy stuff. Trying to save 10g to put together a bed cage and add a fuel cell. 500 dollar fixed blade knives don't help. That thing cost more than my RMJ Tactical Shrike. Edit: If you plan on carrying a fixed blade on your belt. Or using it in the field, you might find the length to be cumbersome at 6+ inches. Everyone is different though. If I was buying right now, I'd opt for the 3.75 - 4.00 inch variant here: TCFM 02. Probably the smallest package at around 8" overall. The blades are a quarter inch thick. Pretty hefty. Only foolishness would damage that knife. ie: prying with the tip or cutting rocks. I guess it depends what you intend to use the knife for.