StrangerDanger

If it's anything like my Aimpoint T-1, it's the cats ass. Faster target acquisition.

Optics planet doesn't have anymore?

The issue is, you don't want the rear sights to be very bright. They're not meant to be used as an alignment. Your eyes are so close to the rear sight that they are a blur at best. I have found the front sight to be pretty bright. Generally, I prefer trijicons also. However, these seem to work fine.

You need a 5.5mm open ended wrench to remove the nut from the front sight post. I got mine from Sears. Your local store isn't likely to have it. I didn't think the rear tritium sights were worth much until I began using them at night. It isn't for aligning the sights. It's for indexing your face properly so you know you're looking through the ghost rings at the front post. This is why the rear sights tritium is so small. They're tiny pin pricks. When it is practically pitch black out, you can't see the sights at all. Even with muscle memory putting your face in the proper location, it is hit or miss. You're not sure if you're looking over the top of the ghost ring or off to the side.

Almost got your toes! It depends where you host them. My flickr account creates several different sizes for me to select. The only other solution is to resize them on your computer small then upload them if your host doesn't do the same. I like the dedicated forends. I wish Surefire would produce some newer models. Most people don't need all the rails. They're finally moving their dedicated shotgun forends to a LED head with a decent lumen output.

Harder to hit with my thumb down there. Plus, I love the obstruction free bottom.

Change of weapon light plans. I put my Scout on the MRP from the Benelli to test out. Given that there are currently no offset mounts, I scrapped the idea. I put my Surefire X300 at 12 o'clock in front of the front sight post. It is ambidextrous and has a similar light output as the Scout. It is also about half the weight. With the sights flipped up, I can barely see the light along the bottom of the front sight post. I have some concern about when the T-1 is mounted though. We'll see... It slings better without the side mounted light. None of the handguards are obstructed either. I considered buying a X400 for it, but I think the laser housing would rise up too high and get into the sight view. I have a X400, I need to try it out. I got my Vickers sling today, I really like it. The padding is nice. It isn't overly big like some are. The slide lock transition device is easy to use. It hangs better than my GearSector 2 Point sling. I don't really know why... http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3576/3838633074_543a5b9724_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3496/3838632844_ca63029d38_b.jpg

Obama hates it more than others.

You mean when you pull the gas plugs and the piston out? Down that hole on both sides? Or do you mean the tiny holes inside the barrel? Inside the gas plugs, I usually just run a 9mm bore snake through there. Sometimes I spray it out with a bit of BreakFree Powder Blast.

Oh yes, a T-1 for sure. I've been trying to get all the nickel and dime parts taken care of before getting the bigger accessories. Magpul was nice enough to swap out my older pmags for the newer version. My older models would not drop free when empty on several lowers. The newer M type pmags do though.

I got my barrel back from ADCO. Well worth the money. It completely changed the center balance of the rifle. It put the center right above the magazine well. It no long feels front heavy like before. It's a bit more maneuverable with the 16" total length barrel too. The FDE looks great in my opinion. It matches the Magpul FDE very well. I got my Daniel Defense front sling mount, all new FDE Magpul XTM rail covers and a tritium front sight post. I also installed a Gessele SSA trigger pack and got rid of my KNS pins. No fitting issues with the LMT ambidextrous selector. It's scary using the crappy torque wrench supplied with the MRP. The amount of torque applied is extremely low. You can apply the amount with one finger on the wrench. It is very easy to miss the click. If you get one of these, note how easy it is to take the bolts out. That'll help you judge how tight they should be. Get a better wrench if you plan to pull these often. Here are a couple photos. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3832420383_920e18d32f_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/3833214080_54952e0f98_b.jpg Vickers QD Padded sling should be here tomorrow. I wish I could get an offset mount for the Surefire Scout light.

Mine is a 11703 with a 11707 barrel assembly. The hardest one to fit is for the 11707 because of the added collar that seats against the front of the receiver. Saying that, there is enough clearance to easily pull the barrel out.

Hey HK, Unless you're securing a wire like I am, I'd leave the ladder covers off. I considered drilling holes in the top rail to route the cable through also. Since I ended up with the Aimpoint, there is no obstruction present. The Surefire ladder rail covers do help some. The indent helps. It's not great by any means though. I was in the field all day and into the night with this setup. It busted that rattler in the dark easily. We often call the Benelli the Snake Charmer. In other news, my MRP barrel is heading back from ADCO. It was profiled down to .625", cut down to 14.5" and my Vortex flash suppressor was pinned in place. It was then painted FDE. ADCO is quick! My Geissele SSA trigger should be in early next week to replace my old Timney 4#. I got a few small upgrade parts coming tomorrow from Brownells. Another dozen pmags, tritium front post for my Troy iron sights and a Daniel Defense limited rotation front sling mount. Plus enough xtm panels to properly finish covering my rails. A Vickers padded sling is also enroute. Now I just need some big stuff. The Aimpoint T-1, Surefire Scout light. Then I need to find a FDE UBR.

The aluminum will be lighter. However, these parts don't weigh much to begin with. They both cost the same too. Off topic, here are a couple shots of that Diamond Back. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3818031727_d3717341f8_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2505/3818031133_964f1b7093_b.jpg He was on a common range where people shoot. Lots of kids in the area. Apparently no sighting in was needed for the Aimpoint. Took his head clean off. Rattlers out here rarely rattle anymore. They let you walk right up on them before striking. We had two of them yesterday. The other was so far away from where people normally are, he was left alone.

I got the red aluminum one also. I tried it out last night. Busted me a rattler. Blew his head clean off with a 3" magnum. He slid into the gate in snake heaven before he knew what to think. No feeding/loading/cycling issues with the follower, kips tube and spring.

All of kips tubes are marked at the case. Looking forward to seeing the photos.

Great review. Would it be possible to cut the KG so it lost the top rail and fit beneath the SideArmor? Or does it need the top rail to stabilize the handguard?

A huge negative for the FVG on the Benelli M4 is the added weight. You'll need to add a rail system. Plus the grip itself. Right there, you've added half a pound. I feel I can support the weight of the weapon with a standard hold better than off of a FVG. I was out lastnight with the M4. Our training took us over several miles of uneven terrain in the dark under the near full moon. Keeping the weapon on target for significant amounts of time was taxing.

Wow. That's new to me. If a quality manufacturer produces some of the evil parts here in America, I'll gladly pick them up to lower the count.

So, do all of you with an imported AK carry the parts count letter around with you? If you want to circumvent the 922, look into registering it as a Class 3 short barreled shotgun. It'll cost 200$, but that is cheaper than the Surefire handguard. You don't have to get a shorty barrel if you don't want to.

Bighat, I tried their ladder rail covers and magpul xtm. The best was xtm's along the bottom and the ladder rails on the sides. It still felt like holding onto a pringles can. It is acceptable, but you'll find the factory hanguards to be much more comfortable. It was terrible to mount a light to. It put the light right where your hand should be. If you are using a FVG, it would be OK. However, that doesn't seem too comfortable on the M4. I had considered keeping the M80 and using it in tandum with the SideArmor rail. Route the pressure switch to the M80 and run the light on the SideArmor side rail. Heavy option. Anyone honest will tell you the stock guards are much more comfortable. The Isreali made one fit horribly. Someone had photo's a month ago or so. The channels for the pistons didn't line up right. They had to dremel it to fit.

The molding alone would cost 10 - 20k easily. Injection molding is very costly. I would not recommend the Surefire rail. I had one and sent it back. It was very uncomfortable to hold. With or without rail covers.

Looks great from my ****** 3gs. How easy is the switch to press? The wire install looks real clean. Glad to see you went with the Daniel Defense sling mount. Be sure to remove the factory loop to save half an ounce. Stev

Try http://www.flickr.com it's free and easy.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=44593/pid=20384/sku/BENELLI_ALUM_RED_MAG_FLLWR_12_GA_3_5_ On 07/31/2009 you asked the following question at Brownells “Where is this product made? I'm looking to see if it qualifies as a US made part to help with 922 issues.” Brownells from Montezuma, IA said: “Yes, this one is made in the US.” I have several thousand rounds on this follower without any issues. No capacity reduction even when using Kips tube and spring.