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Everything posted by StrangerDanger
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All Benelli’s are a pain to unload using the method of pressing the shell stop inwards. Removing the latch and polishing it can help. I find the last round to be the most difficult to get out of the tube. I find this method safer to unload with since live rounds are not being chambered thru the process.
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The less stuff hanging off of a weapon, the better. If I am going to add something, I have to justify it to myself. The more you hang on a weapon, the more chances it’ll hang up on your gear when slung, or catch on a door frame.
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No one likes the Strike Industries rail since you have to tighten set screws to get it to stop wiggling once installed. They shoot loose and are generally considered a pain in the ass. Set screws in cheap 6061 aluminum are not going to last a long time. You’ll eventually wear out the threads and strip them out. Some have fixed these rails by putting RTV silicon inside the rail and letting it cure to the shotgun. This eliminates the need for the set screws. Rail systems aren’t really needed anyway. They place the light in the way of your hand. They are a bunch of weight too. You’d be better served with a dedicated light mount from Impact Weapon Components. I tried all sorts of hand stops in the past. All they did was get in the way. Same applies on the AR platform. I like to be able to move my grip to different positions on a rail since I’m not always shooting at some optimal position. Having the freedom to slide up and down the rail for leverage is a huge benefit.
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I haven’t handled one in person, but the pivot seems like a failure point I wouldn’t want. Looks like the screw set the light’s position. I don’t like that. Seems like a part that will get knocked loose then be flopping around until you can secure it. There are better, simpler designs that would be cheaper than what it’s retailing for. You can buy a DF model on Amazon and elsewhere for 240-260 bucks. On an AR platform, use an inline mount for whatever attachment standard you’re running. The mount is like 40 bucks. If you’re mounting to a Benelli, IWC is the way to go there and you won’t need the picatinny connector. The IWC will bolt directly to the light’s body.
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Looks like something someone attached to the shotgun themselves. If it were a true Marine’s, he would have drawn dicks on it and thrown it down the driveway to give it that battle worn look!
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I want that tool too! The design should work to keep the bolt carrier from coming to a dead blow hit at the end of rearward travel. Instead of just bottoming out, it should land on that spring loaded plunger assembly. Hopefully mine is sitting in customs as well.
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Looking for Benelli M4 Recoil Spring Tube 3 Position
StrangerDanger replied to RuneScape's topic in Benelli
The 5 position tube only works with the Super Nova collapsible stock, not the Benelli M4's. -
No it doesn’t. The part that mounts against the stock doesn’t fit perfectly. It wasn’t intended for this application. So you’ll see the threaded parts of the screws inside the loop.
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Perhaps. However that should be disclosed in the auction.
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Looking for Benelli M4 Recoil Spring Tube 3 Position
StrangerDanger replied to RuneScape's topic in Benelli
Weird auction. I wonder what they did to the receiver? Parts do look a bit beat up though. The end user could part off what they didn’t want and make back a lot of their money and might come out ahead. Trigger Pack: 250 Bolt Carrier Group: 350 Barrel Assembly: 400 Collapsible Stock: 600 Receiver Extension: 200 Rest of the parts are tough to sell. -
That’s pretty rough on that bolt link. It won’t likely effect function though. the hammer and pistons seem normal to me. The bolt link is probably the most half assed made part on the Benelli. It’s sandwiched together steel shins riveted together. If someone made a one piece unit, I’d buy that. I’m sure Benelli will replace or repair those parts for you if you’re willing to wait on their slow tech support services.
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Still waiting. Sent a Karen email over the weekend asking where it was. They replied they’d look into it. It’s been over a month now. I might report them to gunbroker if it doesn’t turn up soon.
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If you’re going to clean the shotgun; might as well pull the pistons and wipe them off. I run a bore snake down the channels the pistons sit in to brush out the crud. Even without fancy coatings, yours should function for thousands of rounds before it needs attention. Now you will need to squirt more oil into the bolt carrier every 500 rounds or so.
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Tips for removing screws from Benelli M4 Butt Pad
StrangerDanger replied to Milspec's topic in Benelli
Gotcha. I agree with Jimbo. You want something plastic or wood to drive the screw out with. You'll need a hammer and something to sit the pad on so the screw can be driven out. -
The pistons are designed to be self cleaning. This is why it has those cuts around the pistons. As it cycles, the pistons scrape off the carbon build up and deposit it on the inside of the handguards. I went for 2000 rounds over the course of about 18 months without cleaning the M4. This particular M4 had nickle boron plated pistons. At the end of my little test, it was still functioning just fine. I just got bored and wanted to clean it. Almost no one ever disassembles the ARGO plugs either. There are spring loaded cups inside of there that deal with the same carbon build up. You can't really clean them assembled. Even soaking in an ultrasonic tank does little and usually just leaves solvent inside the plugs.
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Tips for removing screws from Benelli M4 Butt Pad
StrangerDanger replied to Milspec's topic in Benelli
You need a philips head screw driver. You need to put oil on the screw driver so it will slip in to the hole. Press firmly inwards as you unscrew the bit. If it feels like it is slipping, you might want to try a different size philips. -
Neckbearding the sight nuts! You can get by bu just using blue Loctite on the nut.
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My luck, every time I tightened the light, it would stop at a different position.
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You can focus the heat on the magazine tube. You won’t be using it afterwards. You can put wet rags on the receiver for added protection on the receiver.
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You’ll have a hard time changing batteries since the batteries come out from under the lamp head, not the tail cap. You’d have to dismount the entire weapon light mount. On mine I had them painted in cold cure Cerakote after the machining.
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What do they install in those LE M4's to make them 922r compliant?
StrangerDanger replied to Milspec's topic in Benelli
Law enforcement is exempt from the BS. -
...and climbing with every build.
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Somewhere on this site is a post from a rep from ATI bitching me out for telling the truth about their stock. ? You’ll add pounds of weight to the M4 only to have the rubberized parts delaminates from the cheap plastic parts inside your climate controlled safe. I recall offering to give them an unbiased opinion of the setup, then return it to them so it didn’t seem like I was benefitting from the review.
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Yep! I think I have that same mount on an AR10 build. Scalarworks is the best mount out there. Does everything my Sphur mounts do at half the weight. I used to use Larue mounts until they banned me from buying items from them. I had an international client select my shop as the drop ship location for an ITAR compliant export license. Larue didn’t like that. So they made it so I couldn’t buy from them anymore. At first I was upset since I really like some of their products and all the calls to tech support were blown off. Then I realized there are better options out there and never looked back. That dumb choice has probably cost them well over a hundred grand in product.
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Salad days are officially over. If we get stuck with a Biden dementia presidency, you can expect more of the same like it was thru the Obama years. The day Obama was elected, I bought a Dillon 650. Since then it has made around 60,000 rounds. Components were hard to find back then, but easier than finding complete ammo.
