StrangerDanger

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Some prefer the choke be fixed. One less failure point. I like the interchangeable ones personally. I use a Briley choke wrench, that sucker isn’t coming out on its own. A good gun shop like Rose Action Sports can thread a barrel for a choke.

The barrel weight is the same mostly. The only difference is the 11701 doesn’t have interchangeable chokes. The 11701 comes with a neutered receiver extension that will not allow the collapsible stock to collapse. It’s a big job to replace this. All newer M4’s come a with a polymer trigger frame. Other than that, the parts are identical.

I have a set going there soon for the work for a client. I personally never had any issues with the Meprolights.

If I ever get that recoil system, hopefully it’ll take another 10-20% worth of recoil off of the package. Faster you can recover from each shot, the faster your follow up shots can be.

Bird dog’s got the link. The price includes doing the rear sight also. Seems like they replace the rear sight rather than drill it out.

I’m sure it doesn’t help it. Drilling the hole compromises one of the internal chambers. However the classic pads rely mostly on the rubber to absorb the recoil where as the Airtech rely more on the pressurized cavity. It still cuts perceived recoil by 25-40% with the hole. Limbsaver claims 70%, but not in my experience.

No problem! I remember that feeling with my first M4!

Tooltech Will machine your existing apertures for actual Trijicon lamps. Unfortunately they charge 250 dollars for this.

The 10403 will still need a hole drilled into the base to allow the receiver extension to pass thru if you want to still use the fully collapsed position of the stock. The standard pads are less reliant on an air cavity to perform. You’ll also need some fasteners. You’ll want M4 0.7mm thread pitch x 8mm in length. Preferably an Allen head machine screw. You should be able to find them at a local hardware store. You’ll need two of them and they usually under a dollar each.

Give it some time. The supplies of three position recoil tubes will return. Everyone bought them up recently with the run on guns.

Yep, it's normal.

I agree with DFWSFO. The Airtech is marginally better, but you'll get most of the performance with the classic fit.

You would not be able to drill a hole in the bottom of the pad since it would compromise the air cavity. However, if you could live without moving the stock in to the fully collapsed position, you could probably use a 10807 with a Noveske adapter plate.

The serial numbers never line up between the receivers/barrels and trigger frames.

This thread needs pics. A client sent his SRO on a Scalarworks Mount today for his 11721. It sits a little higher than the RMR, so its more forgiving in the middle position of the collapsible stock. Here’s some pictures.

Nice job Rick.

You'll be looking at about a 5.5 ounce weight reduction. I find it definitely noticeable.

Good looking M4!

Everyone will offer recommendations for pistols, but the only way to truly see what works for you is to go and rent them. What works for you might not work for her and vise versa. Unless your wife is ‘strong on plow,’ it may be too heavy and have too much recoil for her to manage. The M4 has a complicated loading system that is difficult to use under stress. It requires a lot of fine motor skills.

As a certified firearms instructor, I would preface saying that the best firearm you have is the one you’ll actually carry. The shotgun in the house will do little good standing in the driveway. Every time I have needed a firearm, I have never had the luxury of 30 seconds to go retrieve one. I would recommend seeking profession training to ingrain the firearm rules. I’d recommend both you and your wife attend one since knowing your legal rights is as important as picking a gun. I’d do this before spending a bunch of money.

Sorry it took so long to price things out. Been busy this weekend. The parts were sourced from Brownells, and applicable parts were then plated thru Robar. I think your plan is to buy the A&S Engineering frame? If so, you’ll get the rear trigger pin and the safety detent pin. You’d be best server buying aftermarket triggers, disconnectors, hammers, carriers and safety buttons. Aftermarket springs for the trigger/carrier/hammer can be purchased from FFT - but they aren’t cheap. 2. Disconnector Pin: 7.99 3. Disconnector Spring: 8.99 4. Disconnector Plunger: 9.99 (NP3) 5. OEM Disconnector: 33.99 (NP3) 6. OEM trigger (Don’t have one) 7. Trigger Spring: 10.99 8. Carrier Spring: 10.99 9. Carrier Plunger: 11.99 (NP3) 10. Hammer Spring: 11.99 11. Hammer Cap: 9.99 (NP3) 12. OEM Hammer: 60.99 (NP3) 13. Breech Latch: 19.99 (NP3) 14. Breech Latch Pin: 11.99 (NP3) 15. Snap Ring: 11.99 (NP3) 16. OEM Carrier: 55.96 (Cerakote black) 17. Trigger Bushing: 15.99 (NP3) 18. Shell Release Lever: 36.99 (NP3) 19. OEM Aluminum Trigger Frame: 200.00 (NP3) 20. Trigger Pin: 18.99 (OEM frame needs two, A&S needs one) (NP3) 21. OEM safety: 24.99 (NP3 and black Cerakote) 22. Safety Plunger Retainer Pin: Don’t have one 23. Shell Release Spring: 11.99 24. Safety Plunger: 20.99 (NP3) 25. Safety Plunger Spring: Don’t have one.

It will mar up the finish on your barrel/magazine tube. You will need tools to disassemble the shotgun. If you can live with that, you can mount your light much farther forward than the traditional options. You'll need a tape switch to effectively use it.

Correct. And you don’t need 21 if going with A&S since they use their own supplied pin. The rear trigger pin is also proprietary.

On the H2O I built, I intentionally tried to short stroke the action by holding it to my side and allowing the shotgun to buck backwards during recoil. Firing the Valuepack Winchester and Federal 7.5 and 8 shot birdshot functioned flawlessly. This would absolutely choke most semi autos unless he action springs were changed to operate with reduced recoil ammunition. The ARGO system does a wonderful job at regulating pressure and keeping the cyclic action functioning. Granted the H2O has a wider range of operation capabilities from lower friction loss.