StrangerDanger

Those ones had a 40” Surefire tape switch, I don’t believe they sell them anymore. The switch was routed into the stock and the pad was cut into a pocket beneath the rubberized pistol grip. So you’d activate it like a pair of CTC laser grips. The excess wire was stowed in the void or the buttstock. I milled a groove for the wire along the inside of the grip. Here is the grip with the rubberized overmold removed. The biggest issue was these old pads had a lot of dead spots in them. The newer ones are better, but there are no 40” options.

Sure. We can definitely do that. PM me and we can arrange payment and shipping. I have to go find my post where I listed the price.

Good deal, glad it worked. I would probably pull the button out and inspect it for any damage or try to identify what was making it hang up like that. The pin may have been thru the spring coils.

Sorry, I didn’t see the message. We can link up with PayPal if you want the tube. Just be aware of the difficulty of removing and installing these extensions. The assembly was never meant to come apart. So it takes a lot of heat to get it apart safely. I have threads dedicated to DIY installations.

This is my preferred setup with a BlueForceGear padded sling with sewn in QD Mount points. Having the rear QD link on the opposite side of the shotgun really helps with controlling the weapon when you’re hands off.

Sure thing.

Ok, the Allen head screw would have indicated it was one of those California models. The next step I would take is removal of the button by knocking out the roll pin that goes front to AFt on the stock. Look for signs of damage or binding or something preventing the button from being easily pushed.

Odd for that model to be giving you trouble. Are you in California by any chance? The stock isn't attached to the extension at all, correct? Normally you slide the stock on to the receiver extension canted about 45 degrees to the left while holding the button in. Then you will rotate the stock 90 degrees to the right while still holding the button. Then you can slide the stock up and down the extension to the three notches. You'll see witness grooves on the extension to help you visually align them. Then you will rotate the stock 45 degrees back to the left and let go of the button. The stock should be indexed correctly with no cant at this point. Take a look beneath the plastic cheek riser to see if there is an allen head screw that enters the stock. You might be able to see it without removing the cheek riser.

I have done a few of these for clients. With Robar out of business, I sourced a new place that does NP3 finishing at Wright Armory in Mesa Arizona. They offer basic gunsmithing and disassembly services. They laser engrave all the parts and do an excellent job finishing the parts. Now I’m not sure how well their general gunsmith knows the Benelli M4. For mine and others I did the full tear downs to make sure as much of the parts were plated. I would recommend using Np3 vs. NP3+. Regular Np3 costs less and the surface hardness is harder. Cost is very high for the plating. With shipping we are seeing costs around 1100.

The search does suck here. It’s not too bad for tension. Putting a punch thru one of the drain holes will keep it from jumping out on you. There is a little lip on the spring side of the stock retaining screw that cups the end of the spring. I push the spring in with one hand at the end of the receiver extension. So I compress like 4” of spring at a time and grasp it with my hand holding onto the extension. Then slide the other hand down and get 4 more inches. Then once it’s close to compressed, I push what I can in with my thumb, and insert the punch thru the drain hole to retain the spring. You’ll end up with two or three inches of spring sticking out that you can easily push in with the stock retaining screw. I screw this plug most of the way in with my thumb, then switch to the tool shown my old post to snug it up. Putting Loctite on this screw is an option as long as you expect to use heat to remove it. I would use a really low yield strength thread locker like the purple kind. I’d only do this if using the Urbino stock since there is a risk of it coming out on you and being trapped inside of the stock. A user over at AR15.com recently had issues with this part coming loose on his factory pistol grip stock. He ended up cutting the stock up to recover the parts and found the stock retaining screw was cross threaded onto the stock stay bolt.

Is this a M1014 flag edition model?

Actually yes. I have three sets of the front sling mount and snap ring in Np3+. Hows 25 bucks shipped?

I would not use Loctite on the screw that holds the stock to the receiver extension. Many have had to cut the stock off since the threaded hole the screw goes into unscrews. So then you have the screw stuck inside the stock with the stock retaining screw stuck on it.

Be very careful with how much you remove from the face of the shell stop. Too much and the shotgun won't function safely or could cause random jams. My preferred method is the scalop cut on the face of the latch. You have to leave the corners of the latch intact or you may experience issues where the shell ejects too soon during cycling. Or the shotgun may drop shells onto the carrier if dropped hard. You can polish until your heart is content. Realize you will be removing the phosphate finish so you may have some surface rusting issues afterwards. I would not try to relocate the pin. It would drive the face of the latch too far forward and the tail piece that intersects with the trigger pack would also be affected. Plus your button would no longer align with the receiver hole. The red areas shown can be polished, but it probably won't do much. The part isn't facing much resistance there.

The IWC mount would likely be the most stable platform to mount to. It would be mounted to the barrel assembly so a zero should be retained. I would use a Surefire X400 weapon Light/laser combo. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/multi-light-benelli-m4-mount-1913-picatinny-rail/ Here is the mount. As you can see the picatinny rail is at an angle. This will complicate zeroing of the laser since you won’t be adjusting on the up/down left/right for each screw. While not ideal, it isn’t super hard to work around this. https://www.surefire.com/illumination/weaponlights/handgun/x400u-a-ultra-green-led-weaponlight.html Surefire X400 Ultra with a 1000 lumens and a green laser. The x400 still has that retarded oversized toggle switch on the bottom that selects if you want just laser, just light, both light and laser, or toggled off. Trouble is the switch is easy to bump. I’d the length of the toggle down so that it takes more effort to switch modes. I’d then put the Surefire XT 07 tape switch block on the back of the X400. Which isn’t cheap. https://www.surefire.com/catalog/product/view/id/309/s/remote-switch-assembly-for-x300/category/72/ The picatinny Railed tape switch won’t work with this application with the OEM handguards. I’d buy a Surefire ST07 then maybe modify the handguard so there is a slight pocket for the tape switch to sit in. Maybe put a hole thru the handguard for a zip tie to retain the wire at the front of the pad. I’d probably use a set of FFT reproduction handguards so that you aren’t modifying your OEM set.

I’m in Kingman Arizona, so shipping would be fast even at UPS ground shipping rates. I have a FFL to facilitate transfers. I’m even registered with the California DOJ. A job like this is usually done the same day and packed up to ship out the next business day.

Mainly the weight savings. 5.5 ounces is a significant amount of weight off the front end of a shotgun. I've paid a lot more than that cutting grams off of builds sadly. The color match on the carriercomp is better than the oem or any other aftermarket tube. There are no real benefits to any specific follower other than being a 922 compliant part. The magazine spring supplied by carriercomp/wolff is considered the best out there. I have about 10k rounds on one of mine without any signs of being worn out over the past decade or so.

Glad their frame fixed your issues. I’d see if the stripped plastic frame still doesn’t want to fit well. Then maybe look for where it is interfering.

Benelli would be happy to sell you a model with all the evil features. Unfortunately too many people vote Democrat and they threw a bunch of feel good useless laws in the way. Then you have a bunch of cuck Republicans that go along with their crap. Don’t think too much about having to buy parts just to get the features you want. Think more along the lines that you’re upgrading your bad ass shotgun. If my M4 came with a full length OEM steel mag tube, I’d be buying a Carriercomp anyway for the other benefits.

Send both guns to me and I’ll swap them.

I think I have an NP3+ plated one.

Since you have the collapsible stock, it counts against you for two imported parts. It doesn't matter if it is functional or not. So to be 922 compliant, you would need four US made parts. The carrercomp magazine tube and follower will count for two parts. The FFT handguard will count for the third. You will need to pick a fourth though. Your options are an A&S trigger frame, hammer, disconnector, or trigger. Another option is to sell the collapsible stock for a premium and install one of the other OEM stocks or one of the aftermarket ones. An aftermarket one would count as a US made part. Use of the OEM field stock would eliminate the evil pistol grip, which would make using the full length magazine tube within compliance. Basically swapping one evil feature for another.

The Velcro models are the best models. They weigh less and there is less chance of damaging the shotgun. The adhesive on the Velcro may damage the finish on your camo shotgun however.