StrangerDanger

Thanks. The slugs were bought during the Obama era at Walmart. Between the slugs and the buckshot, I’d clean them out each trip. I had the burnt bronze / nickel boron plating done back around 2013 at WMD Guns. I think I paid around 300 bucks back then since I had sent a large batch order of parts. The bolt carrier group and trigger pack were done in NP3 later on. On one of my next painting jobs, I might send the bolt carrier and the trigger frame to have them painted on the visible areas so the snipers don’t get me. the Sync rail should also be painted in burnt bronze. I have removed the iron sights and had the weapon light painted in burnt bronze to match the rest.

70 yards with crappy Remington slugs, 3 shot group from a Lead Sled. Trijicon RMR Type 2, 1moa dot optic. Another 3 shot group from the same parameters. Different M4, 3 shot group at 70 yards. Trijicon RMR Type 2, 3.5 moa dot optic. Same cheap Remington slugs.

I went with 70 yards with slugs since that's the longest range I have at my nearby range. Patterning buckshot will depend on what rounds you're using. They'll perform differently depending on your choke and the will of the gods. Crappy buckshot like Remington bulk stuff will print most of the pellets on a B27 size target at that 70 yard range. Running more expensive stuff with flight control results in smaller patterns.

I have three of the trigger frames. One NP3+, one Nickel Boron and burnt bronze exterior, and one plastic one painted in Benelli Dark Earth. I have all the internal parts except for the pin that retains the safety and OEM trigger. I still think you'd be best served with the A&S Engineering frame.

Weird. I have seen older buttpads made of vulcanized rubber start to deteriorate from age/use. Might be a good time to install a Limbsaver pad on the stock and benefit from the reduced perceived recoil. I'd source one of their Airtech models. If it is a synthetic or wooden stock, the 10810 model should fit. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1999/2905/files/2018_Recoil_Pad_Cross_Reference.pdf?14668201401536722633

The M4 will fire that crappy Walmart valuepack 2 3/4 birdshot all day long if you want. Gun store commando trying to sell you what he has on hand.

Nice case Launch!

Some of them had Np3 done after the work. Others clients declined any refinishing and left it bare aluminum. You could send it out for Cerakote quite easily. Anodizing would take a lot of work to strip the receiver down completely. Of those choices, I’d do the Cerakote. On the Cerakoted Benellis, you can see that the Cerakote is removed and exposes the black anodizing. I tried using AlumaBlack on mine when I first did it, it worked okay, but not great. I felt it looked better in polished bare aluminum.

Sure. I’ll grab it if I see it.

Yep. I’ll keep an eye out.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/865066653

It’s scary mailing parts. I thankfully haven’t lost any, but I have had a few take some weird detours and get lost for a few weeks. Anyone who has gotten packages from me knows how I zip tie them into the box and make sure nothing says gun parts on the box or shipping label. If it’s going to Bob’s Guns, I’m only listing Bob’s. The A&S frame would be the best choice for your build. The machining is better than on the OEM frames. The Briley trigger will work just as well in any frame you put them in. Then you can add whatever aftermarket parts you want into that frame like the TTI or FFT carrier or an oversized safety button. The A&S frame will also count as a US made part. Here and at AR15.com I get hit up a lot if the Benelli is mentioned. A lot of the old threads still pop up when doing google searches, which leads them to me. Usually I can walk someone thru fixing a problem. If not, having a FFL license helps a lot.

Thought of another option, you could purchase the A&S Engineering frame and we could source most of the small parts to put into it. The black color may fit your color scheme better. I’m good at talking myself out of sales!

Good deal. I won’t be home until 8pm tonight to see what I have. I imagine you’d be more interested in the NP3+ frame?

They’re not the same for the frames, but some of the small parts are interchangeable. I know I have two stripped oem frames in the shop. One is an aluminum frame that was NP3+ plated and another is a plastic one that is Cerakoted dark earth. I probably have the majority of the small parts that go in them. The small parts are all NP3 plated. I can look tonight to see exactly what is needed if you’re interested in either of them.

Sometimes the Carriercomp tubes pop up for sale on the equipment exchange on AR15.com. Or sold on gunbroker.

BamBam- Whenever you’re ready, PM me and we can work out what you want done. I am a FFL so the receivers can be sent directly to me and sent right back to their owner.

Briley jobs are quite aggressive for sure. They remove a lot of material in the process. For mine, I don’t feel much is benefitted from going that extreme. Opening up too much can prevent the sides of the receiver from containing the shells and directing them to the magazine tube. On mine, I shape them out by hand and square the lines up with a large file. Once the shape is correct, I break all of the edges with a specialty tool bit. This gives the edges an organic shape that has no sharp angle to catch your fingers on when moving fast. This thread needs pictures!

Thanks! The mounts are easy to install. The front Mount is part of the IWC light/sling mount. It replaces the factory front sling mount. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/multi-light-benelli-m4-mount-scout/ The rear QD sling mount is also from IWC. It fits right thru the factory sling loop. It’s pretty easy to install as well. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/

Updated list of parts available: Benelli M4 Receiver Extension Plunger NP3+ plated. I have several of these. $25.00 Benelli M4 OEM bolt handle, NP3+ plated then painted in carbon black Cerakote on the visible areas. $25.00 Benelli M4 OEM stealth shell elevator, painted in carbon black Cerakote on the bottom visible side. $25.00 Benelli M4 OEM stealth shell Elevator, NP3+ plated and the visible areas painted in carbon black Cerakkote. $30.00 Benelli M4 TTI stealth shell elevator, painted in carbon black Cerakote on the bottom visible side. $80.00 Benelli M4 OEM stripped plastic trigger frame, painted in Benelli's dark earth Cerakote. $125.00 Benelli M4 OEM (5) round magazine tube, NP3+ plated. $40.00

Thanks guys.

Glad you got your stock swapped. They definitely made it a lot harder than needed. My guess is that someone claimed the stock could collapse to the disassembly notch. So they forced Benelli to add that screw to shut them up. Previous M1014 flag editions do not have that screw. Anyone facing this in the future should probably heat the stock before attempting to put much torque on that screw. I'd wager it is some kind of thread locker like red Loctite.

Thanks! Yep, still got it.

https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/cartridge-parts/cartridge-latches/shell-stop-sku301000536-23688-50315.aspx Place a back order for one and you’ll have it within 4-6 weeks usually. Numrich Arms is another source. a forum member might sell theirs if they’ve moved on to an aftermarket one.

Interesting mod cuts. Shoot it a bunch before you rely on it. What works playing with in the garage often times has failure points that don’t show themselves until you’re on the live range. Birddog - If the spring wasn’t to the farthest extent to the rear it can roll over when firing. Furthermore, If the spring is canted at all where it presses against the receiver, it can roll. With dental picks or a smudge stick, you can actually install the spring with the lever in place. It’s kind of a PITA and might be harder than just knocking the pin out. Sometimes you don’t have punched handy though.