StrangerDanger

I don’t know, KennyG called me out and said all the rounds I put thru the M4 were phony in capital letters! If you’re screwing around with weak value pack birdshot, there isn’t much recoil present to jam your thumb. As you step up to high brass loads and particularly slugs, you best have a good hold of the forearm and a solid shoulder behind the stock. The rubber nipple of the Scout light button is far more forgiving than that aluminum shroud. I’m sure many have found out for themselves!

Sounds like you got a Cerakote model. The real deal NP3 plated H2O’s are excellent firearms. Benelli or Robar did get lazy and didn’t bother plating a lot of the shotgun that should have been though.

Earl’s a good guy. Always helped me out when I had some obscure technical question. I wish it was hogwash, I broke my thumb nail several times riding the momentary switch while firing heavy hitting buckshot. I never use the constant on switch. It’s always momentary and as little as necessary. If there were a source for those caps, they’d sell them. Throwing them in the lathe is pretty easy work. Everyone is buying up all the good stuff this month. I’ve had more client contact in the past month than in the past year combined. I’m having a hell of a time sourcing parts for builds.

I remember thinking this is a lot of work applying the FrogLube. I stripped everything and heated the parts to melt the minty flavored goop into the springs and parts. It worked fine for me, except for the piss ants leaving it stripped of everything but little white granules and the ant conga line into the safe. Most probably don’t need 72 mlok attachment points on their M4. I’m pretty sure I could adapt the Hot Button in to the factory handguard. We just need a forward mounted light to take advantage of this.

They saying here in Arizona is, “Don’t California my Arizona.” Cool story about Frog Lube. The last time I tried it, ants invaded my safe to feast on the minty Frog Lube goodness. On the Briley front, I decided against buying their rail. After looking at the profile of the rail, I determined I’d likely hate it. With zero contouring up high, it would be like holding on to a big rectangle. It’s really hard to beat the ergonomics of the OEM forearm. Not worth the weight penalty either. I’ll live with my barrel shadowing for now.

The polymer trigger frame might need some minor fitting at the rear where the stock is kept aligned. Sometimes they’re too tight of a fit. I wouldn’t recommend doing any filing unless you are skilled at such things. Another work around would be to replace the polymer frame with an A&S Engineering one.

Ava Tactical Mod 1 Weapon Light Mount in NP3+. Unit never mounted. Only have this one. This is the model that uses IWC backbone light bodies to lock in to the ring. $325.00 IWC Benelli M4 Weapon Light Mount in NP3+. Unit mounted but removed before firing. Only have this one. $80.00 Benelli M4 Bolt, bolt body, extractor claw and extractor claw pin all plated in NP3+. Only have this one. $200.00 Benelli M4 Receiver Extension Plunger NP3+ plated. I have several of these. $25.00 Benelli M4 trigger pack NP3+. $200.00 Benelli M4 Neutered Receiver Extension from a M1014. Collapsible stock will not function on this extension. Includes flexible ring. All components NP3+ plated. $100.00 Benelli M4 OEM stripped plastic trigger frame, painted in Benelli's dark earth Cerakote. $125.00 Benelli M4 OEM stripped aluminum trigger frame, NP3+ plated. $160.00 Benelli M4 OEM (5) round magazine tube, NP3+ plated.$40.00

You’re pressing the bolt release while inserting the trigger frame right?

The tightness is usually a result of the stock not being perfectly aligned. If the stock is twisted even a little, it will make getting the trigger pack back in difficult to impossible. I’d recommend unscrewing the stock from the receiver and attempting to reset where it is.

Last time I was in North Carolina, I almost died from a burst stomach from eating all the great sea food. I’m sure I repopulated a few coral reefs near Wilmington!

We need an Ava style mount that wraps around the area of the front sight post and offers up a MLOK so we can use the OEM handguards. I’m sure I could fit the Hot Button to the OEM handguard.

I know, I was hoping someone would run with the list ahead of me and cut their teeth! I kept looking at the rail and tried to decide if I could chop the rail up some to cut weight. Mainly on those chicken wing risers except for where the light mounts.

Sigma - Thanks for the pictures. They help out a bunch with my planning. As Birddog mentioned, the placement of the Surefire tape switch seems a bit high for my thumb to comfortably hit. Maybe you have basketball fingers? Did you try that spot at the 9 o’clock position?

Yes you can. To do this safely, put the M4 on safe. Unload any rounds from the magazine tube y pressing the inside face of the shell stop to allow the shell to eject into the palm of your hand. Now remove the trigger pack by pushing the trigger pin out, press the bolt release and pull the trigger pack free from the receiver. This will make it so that nothing can hit the firing pin. Remove the magazine cap and attempt to remove the barrel assembly. The bolt may be stuck and might try to prevent you from removing the barrel. At this point I would use a plastic dowel rod and hammer it against the bolt carrier in an attempt to unstick it. You can try using a rubber mallet to hit the barrel assembly to try to drive it out. When you get it apart, you need to inspect the bolt head, the round that was chambered, and the luge around the chamber. Is it extremely dirty or lacking oil? Is the rim of the round bent? Is the extractor claw deformed at all? When reassembling, cycle the bolt inside the receiver with the trigger pack removed. Note the tail end of the bolt carrier link and how it seats on the spring loaded plunger at the rear of the receiver. Does it cycle smoothly? Does it cycle correctly when the barrel assembly is installed into the receiver? The M4 likes to run wet with oil on the bearing points on the bolt carrier. You’ll note the rails the carrier rides inside the receiver on. This area should be heavily oiled. The rail should be heavily oiled as well. The head of the bolt should be oiled wet. The locking lugs in the barrel should also be oiled wet. The trigger pack should be brushed clean, and oiled on the moving points. The sear contact points should be greased lightly. Your pistons and ARGO plugs should be left dry. Oil will be burned off and create carbon build up quickly. Brush them clean with a wire brush and solvent, then leave them unoiled. They’re stainless, so they won’t rust.

The screws probably hold the mounting boss in place beneath the aluminum extrusion handguard.

You’ll definitely end up adding half a pound of weight at least. Is it worth eliminating barrel shadowing? I can’t say yet, I’m waiting for my Trump bucks to stimulate the economy with.

Yes, they come in a bag marked that they’re made by Benelli.

Damn. Sorry to hear that. I could think of about a million places better to be stuck.

Have you looked at the Intellibeam version of the Scout? M600IB model. It auto gates itself from 100-600 lumens depending on how much light blow back you’re receiving from things like indoor walls. It rapidly changes so fast in output that you barely even notice it. The m300 and m600 tailcaps are the same. So it will jam your thumb if you’re riding your thumb on the momentary button and fire a 12 gauge round. I’he been working out a new light mounting solution which uses the 13” Briley rail, an IWC inline MLOK light mount, the light of your choosing mounted far forward on the ejection port side for a right hand shooter so the bezel or the light is flush with the muzzle. Then a Unity Tactical Hot Button is installed which is essentially a push button momentary/on/off button with a 9 inch wire routed to the left side rail roughly where you want your support hand thumb to reach. Slap on rail covers that you like on the MLOK and add a QD angled sling mount to the rail all the way forward at 9 o’clock. You’d have less risk of jamming your thumb, but not completely eliminated.

I tried them in the past. They add a lot of weight fast. Figure every round equals 2 ounces. The big aluminum systems add half a pound. I find the loading from a shell carrier to be rather slow. You cherry pick each round between pointer finger and thumb the push it into the tube. The added weight slows how fast you can snap the barrel from target to target and can slow down your shot time. I’d rather load from a California Competition belt mounted loader where I can grab 2-3 rounds into my support and quickly push them in without a lot of hand movement back and forth to a carrier. Even a dump bag type shell holder on the belt would be okay but not as secure. I keep a couple Blackhawk bandoliers loaded with the shotgun so that I have a bunch of round available close to the gun in the event I need to grab and go. You can slide it under the bed and it will be easy to pull out if needed.They’re not super fast from loading from like a side saddle, but it does give me like 55 rounds to take with me all indexed in the belt how you prefer. I put slugs in from the opposite side of the loop give give me an immediate indicator of what they rounds are without looking. You can throw it over a shoulder and go unlike a box of bullets which can be difficult to open quickly.

With everyone panic buying firearms, even Gunbroker is cleaned out of most of M4’s. With that, all the accessories are being cleaned out too. In the past month, I have had more first time contacts from customers than in the past year combined. Give it a few months and I’m sure Benelliparts and MGW will get another shipment of extensions in from Italy.

I'm a fan of the velcro systems over the hard mounted ones. The velcro ones weigh less and crush flat when not in use. I didn't care for how stiff it was to pull the shells from the Mesa one either.

Yep. They’re around, but they command a premium over all other M4’s. There weren’t a whole lot of the NP3 modeled ones released and no new ones are currently being produced. Unless you make your own.

Thanks! Did you get the Np3 plated H2O or the Cerakoted one? The only way this one would be better is if it were an entry gun platform. And maybe that Briley rail setup I’m working on. The owner got this shotgun back on Friday or Saturday - he seemed to be quite happy, and he hasn’t even shot it yet!

You’d be served well by any of those shotguns. The pricing is deceptive. It’ll give you the price for say doing a bolt carrier group. But the. There are other fees for chemical stripping, gunsmithing hours for disassembling and laser engraving control numbers and so on. If you got out of there for under 250 bucks, I’d be surprised. Then the worst thing happens, you start considering what other parts would benefit from the treatment. Then you decide to skip the Cerakote model all together and elect to send a black one in for treatment since used NP3 plated Benelli’s well for a significant premium.