StrangerDanger

I like the shape and texture of them over the more commonly found knurling. Sometimes I hit the bolt handle hard with my hand, and the knurling tears up my fingers. I never experienced the over insertion issue people have reported. I guess I could force it in, but I’d have to work at it to make that happen. This shotguns a pleasure to shoot full house loads thru. A combination of NP3 and a Limbsaver 11403 really keeps the perceived recoil down.

Thanks! That’s a stainless TTI bolt handle.

Thanks all. The NP3 is pretty abrasion resistant. I was careful when putting it down on the rocks. The lichen covered rocks were best. Color match is pretty close. The hue is a little off, but most would never notice.

Parts finally came back from paint today. So I got the M4 put together and took it out to sight it in on my private range here in the forest. This one is a smooth shooter. I can't tell the difference between buckshot and slugs thru it. I went through nearly a 100 rounds of slugs and buckshot to get everything sighted in and to see how the action was performing. Cleaning it when I got home was quick and easy. Everything wipes off with a rag with very little effort. Target set at 40 yards. Three shot groups of some cheap slugs. 3 shot groups continued. Dialing in the optic.

The top one has a longer barrel which is typically seen in the European market. I've never seen one here in the US. Other than that, they look identical.

Hell, I’d pay a case of Quilted Northern for a Geissele M4 hammer!

Good eyes. That's from my Intellibeam Scout head. The diameter is like 1.375" which is much larger than the C or even the DF model. I had to machine the lobes off of the light head so that it would fit when using an Ava Tactical Mod 1 mount. That's the main reason that head is off being painted, to cover the bare aluminum.

Cerakote is pretty tough stuff. You shouldn’t have to baby it with special cleaners. I have an ultrasonic tank full of Hoppes #9 that is heated. Think of it as a heated scented candle holder for the garage. I’ve left parts in there overnight without issues. You might be able to scrub that burn mark off. I think I recall seeing other painted H2O’s with similar burns. No idea why they did that since the serial isn’t the same as the receivers.

I’d look into doing a Esstac Type Velcro shell card system. They weigh less, are hot swappable and don’t require any changes to your receiver.

NP3 would be a better choice than nickel boron. I usually have to sand the pistons down on the high spots to get them to fit the shotgun. I put the piston in my drill gun and hold the 2000 grit paper around the piston and run it for 30 seconds at a time. Then test fit the piston to the barrel assembly.

I had to smack the pistons out with a plastic hammer. They were free to move with the ARGO plugs in place, but once they were removed and the pistons were pushed out the front they were gummed up. The pistons themselves were Nickel Boron plated back around 2013. No oil is ever used on the pistons or the ARGO system to avoid smoke during firing. The bolt carrier group was fairly easy to clean. The only carbon build up was on the bolt itself. There was some unburnt powder or shell media randomly scattered throughout the carrier. Given that it was NP3+ plated, the assembly wiped clean with a rag. A Tornado brush was used to remove all the lead embedded in the barrel. There was a pretty good sized pile of lead slivers on the ground from the brush. The trigger pack collects a lot of debris from the shells. Given that all the parts were NP3+ plated, they wiped clean easily. I felt no need to submerge it in the ultrasonic cleaner or disassemble the trigger pack. Just wipe it down and cleaned with Q-tips, then reoiled. The inside of the receiver was plated in nickel boron way back when as well. Carbon build up was present inside the rails for the bolt carrier and where the pistons make contact with the bolt carrier group. This was easily cleaned with Q-Tips. Random debris was collecting in the back of the receiver beneath the rear sight. This area has no effect on performance. There was quite a bit of carbon build up beneath the plastic handguards, this area wiped clean easily as well.

Only if I raise my head up to the upper extremes of the RMR can I see the mounting base of the front sight. The biggest issue with the rear sight is the screws are staked in place. So when you unscrew them, the tip of the screw will usually break off.

30's aren't bad! I'll take it when it tops out at 90 in the summer!

15,000 rounds later and a mix of Nickel Boron and NP3 plated parts with a surface layer of burnt bronze Cerakote. Due to the ongoing crisis, I decided it would be a good time to clean the M4. I have just been shooting more oil in to the M4 for the past two years or so. It's ate about 2,500 rounds in that period of time without any failures. I decided to delete the iron sights from my M4 since they obstruct the view of the optic. My Intellibeam weapon light is off being painted for the past month or so, so I'm roughing it with my 500 lumen M600C head that was painted previously. The bolt carrier group and trigger group is all NP3.

If you know the exact size of the pin you could probably get them from McMaster-Carr for 10 cents each.

No worries. Benelli tried to bait and switch us all on that one.

That's probably the fake H2O. The ones that are just painted silver in Cerakote.

https://www.brownells.com/schematics/benelli-u-s-a-/super-90-m1-military-police-sid683.aspx#s15301sid683 This pin should fit your model. I'd drive it out from the opposite side shown. I'd take it apart to make sure the spring isn't damaged before ordering the new pin. Compressing the spring under that pin while driving the pin into place is one of the biggest pain in the asses on these Benelli shotguns.

Retarded. You can send a regular M4 to Wright Armory to have it NP3 plated for 1100ish. So you'd be in maybe 3000 and you could have all your accessories done as well. The H2O skimped on a lot of areas. Like they didn't plate the aluminum body of the collapsible stock, the iron sights, the top rail or the trigger frame. The only thing is it won't be ready for the apocalypse that just started.

No one panic bought it yet?

You'll be fine just making and adjustment. If removed, you can put a dab of blue loctite on it and re-use the nut. Neckbeards are hoarding the nuts or the 5.5mm wrenches?

Wish they had posted a weight of that carbon fiber magazine tube.

Rub some oil on the area and it’ll probably look the same as before. There is little chance of a heat gun hurting the finish. It typically just dries the area out of oil. I still recommend focusing the heat on the magazine tube you’re removing.

The magazine cap won’t allow the magazine tube to unscrew on you while firing. I just crank mine tight with two hands when it is in the vice. Having it removable makes cleaning the receiver and magazine assembly much easier.

Same. Never had any wash out issues here in the Mojave desert.