StrangerDanger

None of the kits I’ve seen came with a disconnector plunger, so that should be fine. Them supplying a spring with the trigger is news to me.

Maybe run a punch down the hole of the trigger to make sure there is no burs or weird seat depth for the spring. Double check the position of your trigger spring too. Are you using OEM springs or some aftermarket kit? The OEM and FFT disconnector will look slightly different. The OEM has softer edges which can make lining the parts up difficult. The best way to align them for comparison is to run a proper sized punch or drill bit through the bottom pin holes of both. That disconnector pin is a pain to get in due to how small it is. The recent FFT pins have very very tight. You’re right about OEM just pushing in with your finger. Check your trigger pins to make sure you have the shell release spring seated right on the front pin and the rear pin is installed correctly to permit the trigger to rock back and forth as intended. I’d put a small drop of grease on the sear contact points as well.

Interesting. Most of the issues I’ve seen were on the old cast aluminum frames. If the issue is still present, I’d gladly take a look at it for you. I have enough new parts for the trigger pack to identify exactly where the out of spec part is. It is possible that the FFT part is out of spec. Either way you’ll be happy to have the A&S frame.

I can confirm that often times it is the Benelli trigger frame that is out of spec. Either the trigger pins or the hammer bushing pin isn’t located perfectly where it needs to be. Giving more fore or aft positioning for the trigger/disconnector. What you could try is to buy the A&S trigger frame and drop these components into it. These are better made than the OEM and it would get you another US made part.

Outstanding. I love those Proof Research barrels. They're my go to for high end builds. I'm really liking Elite Iron bipods over the traditional style.

Definitely give it a try to see if you like it. It doesn't take much to flip the QD socket if you don't like it.

I’d contact A&S to see what they say about it. I’ve been together probably 25 of these A&S frames and have never had one with fitting issues you described. They may be willing to swap it out for you?

You shouldn’t have needed to modify the frame for the bushing for fit. My guess is the anodizing process changed the inside diameter of the bushing lugs. Did you remove enough material to remove the anodizing to bare aluminum? Another possibility is that you damaged the bushing when removing the snap ring. If a bur raised, it might make the pin not fit easily. Sometimes shuffling all those parts to get the bushing pin holes to line up is trial and error. Hammering the pin in would not effect function. The bushing doesn’t rotate in the trigger frame. It just provides a method for the hammer, shell elevator and shell release button to pivot. I imagine you didn’t remove much material trying to sand inside the holes. So chances are you didn’t change the bushings position relative to how to hammer engages the trigger hooks. I’d fire a bunch of rounds before relying on it for defense and I wouldn’t chamber any rounds in the house until you’ve tested it to your satisfaction.

Probably not this year. I used to go every year for a while, but then got kind of burned out on going for some reason. I do miss going and meeting some cool people though. R. Lee Ermey gave me a cool little Sog knife that I still have on my keychain.

I have never had this happen? I’ve never felt the trigger frame hitting my hand under recoil? Are you firmly holding the grip so that the shotgun isn’t moving around under recoil? Are you shouldering the stock correctly to minimize movement during recoil? A lot of people do not shoulder a shotgun properly in my experience. You want the buttpad pulled firmly into the pocket of your shoulder, not on your deltoid. Make sure your sling attachment is not preventing you from shouldering the firearm correctly. Your firing grip should be pulling the weapon firmly in to your shoulder. Your support hand should be pushing forward. 60% pull into the shoulder, 40% push. This acts as a shock absorber when the shotgun fires. Firm up your shoulder when firing, you don’t want your shoulder flopping around when the shot breaks. Lean in to the firearm and check your stance. You do not want the shotgun pushing your center or gravity backwards. When you fire, you should not be changing how hard you’re shouldering the gun, wincing like this will effect your accuracy. Try to remain consistent and not straining to the point that you’re shaking or tiring quickly. Some shotguns accept stippling on plastics easily, this will help you maintain control over the shotgun. Recoil recovery time is drastically improve if you put these pieces together. If you haven’t tried this, give it a try. Other things you can do is add a Limbsaver buttpad. It’ll help reduce perceived recoil and speed up your follow up shots. What kind of stock are you using? Field stock or pistol grip? I imagine the pistol grip stock would be more forgiving and have your hand supporting the firearm better? Hopefully this doesn’t come across as questioning your skill level. I have to remind myself frequently to do these various steps. An auto loading shotgun is an impressive weapon once you learn how to get behind it. I’m not the fastest by any means, but I can dump 8 rounds in under a second on target. I don’t even notice sight picture disruption really. I’m not the biggest or the strongest by far. I’m like 185 pounds at 6’2.

Unfortunately they don’t have that kryptec typhoon color anymore. I haven’t emailed them to see if they could source any more of it, but I doubt they’d do it.

Didn’t see the post. That stippling was done by Tango Arms. https://www.tangoarms.com/products/benelli-m4-charging-handle They have a few different options available. The set in the picture was a set of FFT grips sent in.

I never had good luck with AMD or ATI video cards. Every time I tried them, I got burned. I prefer Intel I7 or better yet I9 processors and Nvidia video cards. nvidia has better driver support in my experience. Unless I’m building a super high end gaming system, I usually go for laptop. Most good laptops will allow you to plug in a larger screen if desired. We use a little rolling table that sits next to the couch to use the laptop. So much better than sitting at a desk. The couch leans back and has kick out feet rests. Just run the wireless mouse to the arm of the couch. https://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Laptop-Tilting-Overbed-Wheels/dp/B07L9SVZVT/ref=mp_s_a_1_55?keywords=laptop+stand&qid=1577032360&sprefix=laptop+&sr=8-55 Kind of like this, but ours are wood finished. The only desktop we have is wired in to the living room tv which is a 75” 4K. The three laptops are all connected to the router wirelessly. Plus two dozen other items like tablets, phones, printer, smart tv’s, my daughter’s various game systems and so on. There has to be like 25 devices. The desktop is hard wired as well as our 4K NVR‘s that handle 25 surveillance cameras. Each NVR has 16tb of storage for all that 4K video data. All the cameras are hard wired and own their own dedicated CAT5 cabling so they don’t eat up the network bandwidth. The cameras are powered over the Ethernet cabling too, so one side powers and sends data. The router is a Netgear XR500 which is awesome and pretty easy to set up. It manages all my data extremely well for having limited internet. I have an app on my phone to view the cameras remotely. I can set motion alerts but the system isn’t developed enough to make it reliable enough to leave on constantly. Far too many false positive events. Internet is sourced via a Netgear MR1100 4G LTE modem with unlimited data and no speed throttling thru OTR Mobile For 60 bucks a month. They sell AT&T’s bandwidth and somehow get around the caps and throttling. The modem is enhanced by a WeBoost cellular booster system with a directional antenna array which is mounted on the roof. This booster also makes my cellphone work anywhere in the house. Previously it would only work in a few spots if you held your jaw just right. Now, the cellphone has near full bars even in the crawl space under the house. With the booster in place, I typically see 20-35mbps Down/5-9mbps up. This is literally a 100x faster than my last best option, which was a Verizon hotspot which could not be connected to a router. So all my devices Akbar to connect to the Jetpack. There was no way to connect my NVR to it since they don’t have wireless built in. The speeds were terrible and the throttling was horrific. When SpaceX gets Starlink online, I’ll see about switching to that if the speeds are better. I still download 4K content when available to run on the 4K TV without much issue. It comes out to being like a 4gb download per episode of something like The Mandalorian.

They definitely aren’t fast when I’ve used them as well. Glad they replaced it. I’m surprised they didn’t just give you a new barrel assembly.

No fitting required around the exterior. The only modification needed is drilling a hole the diameter of the receiver extension in the correct location for the extension to poke into. Without the hole, you cannot collapse the stock to the fully closed position. I use a Forester bit set and work my way up from 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", to 7/8". I do them on a drill press free hand. I have a drill press vise, but it isn't worth the trouble to set up. To locate the hole's position, I install the pad, then I drop a silver Sharpie marker down inside the stock where the receiver extension fits with the cap off. I shake the marker around a little, then remove the buttpad. The marker will have a area marked out to give you an idea of where to start drilling. Usually I'll put a straight edge on the bottom of the buttpad and score a center line over the drill area. This helps me get at least the side to side axis aligned. Once you do the 1/4" hole, you can put the pad back on the stock without the screws and look down inside the receiver extension hole with a light and see if you need to shift one way or another for the subsequent size up. Even if you're off a little, you can hog the hole out one way or another to make it work. The hole diameter isn't super critical for sizing. You just want the clearance so that the receiver extension isn't making contact with the sides of the buttpad and preventing it from functioning. The Limbsavers pads themselves are hollow inside the pad, so all you're having to do is poke a hole through the polymer base. You do not drill all the way through the buttpad.

Oh, gotcha. I misunderstood. Probably doable with the collapsible stock's pistol grip core. The main issue would then be blending the two together and meshing it up with the trigger group.

If they wanted to send me one to do a review on it, I'd gladly accept. Could even return it at the end. Being a FFL would make that easy enough.

How were you going to deal with the weird angle of the receiver extension? In the video it looks like they got rid of the ARGO plugs?

Yes. It claims it'll reduce perceived recoil by 70%, but in my experience its more like 40%. I have two M4's, so we ran one with the factory pad and one with the Limbsaver. It was faster and more comfortable to shoot the the with the Limbsaver. You can shoot more before your shoulder is sore. The only negative is the rubber is ind of tacky so it grabs your clothing where as the factory one is smooth and slides over clothing.

It looks heavy, but I do like the left hand side charging handle and the AR style safety. They’ve been trying to build this thing for nearly a decade. If I recall, it was pricey.

I’ve moved to using the 10403 buttpads. There is no reason to use the Noveske adapter with this buttpad. You’ll still need to drill the buttpad out to permit the receiver extension to pass in to the buttpad when fully collapsed.

lol I’d dig mine out of my gun for half that! If I recall, retail was around 65-70 each.

M2 is faster, lighter and has more perceived recoil. It's sensitive to adding any weight and the aftermarket isn't as mature as the M4. The M2 is cheaper and more sensitive to loads. I'd trust the M4 over the M2 more from a reliability standpoint. So if your threat is bears or people, I'd go M4.

Never messed with HAM. Seemed like a place for old guys to talk about their prostate problems? I don't know if it would work very well up here anyway. There is so much occlusion from trees and mountains that I might even have issues with Starlink internet. I'd probably enjoy the technical side, but I don't really want to talk to anyone!

Yep, we did the older model of the Oculus a few years ago. We have been thinking about upgrading to the newer one to get higher image resolution and eliminating the motion trackers. Google Earth is amazing in that thing. We put a 1080 Nvidia card in it with room to SLI up to three of them. One was enough for running 4K content. Farcry 5 and GTA 5 ran at full resolution with all the settings to max. I put an Intel I9 processor in it and 32gb of ram. Solid state hard drive and 6tb of storage space for our movie storage drive. I built a network to run our 25 4K resolution cameras on two NVRs with 16tb each for storage. Where I live is pretty remote. So internet options suck out here. I found a company called OTR mobile which is an unlimited data plan 4G LTE plan that doesn’t throttle speeds. Since I live remote, I had to build an antenna booster with a high end WeBoost kit that uses directional arrays to send the cellular signal. So now I see about 20-35mbps, which might not sound like much, but the next best thing here was 0.6mbps.