StrangerDanger

Awesome. Email sent.

Yep. Lot of tolerance issues. Think spinning pistons in a drill chuck while holding fine sand paper on the high spots to make them fit in the barrel. Lots of hand fitting on the trigger pack to make everything function smoothly. WMD was easy to work with though. I never sent them anything they had to disassemble and reassemble though.

I reached out to CTL and never got any kind of response. Sucks that Suarez wasn't willing to just plate parts with zero need for reassembly.

Maybe ask if you have everything disassembled fully if they'll take it on? And what kind of price point they're asking for all the small parts and the larger ones.

They're probably talking about the receiver extension and under the impression that it cannot be disassembled. When Robar did barrels, they didn't do the part that goes into the receiver. It was left whatever matte chrome it was originally finished in. I assume to avoid plating the area with the riveted on ejector. I'm surprised they are able to do that in house. I thought Suarez was a pretty small time operation.

Yes it does, assuming it hasn't had the receiver extension changed out for the neutered one. (Highly unlikely.)

I usually use a stainless TTI one. I don’t care for knurling on the knob since it can cut up my hand when I’m going fast. Some have issues with the TTI knob over inserting. I’ve never experienced this on several M4’s and dozen of clients’ shotguns. I had a carriercomp knob, and it was a masterpiece of engineering. It was knurled though and would chew up my fingers when running it hard. They’re practically vaporware these days. When found they go for an insane premium price of like 450 dollars. Lighter than the stock handle by a few grams too. The titanium FFT bolt handle gets chewed up over time by the detent in the bolt carrier. Steel wins over titanium in durability. So the notches the detent fits into get chewed up and eventually the bolt handle will just fall out.

It should be replaced. The nylock is meant for only one use. However some blue Loctite on it will keep it from coming off.

https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/sights/sight-parts/front-sight-parts/front-sight-retaining-nut-sku301000502-23654-50339.aspx

The only place I’ve heard anything about 922 is from Fudd range masters. I do like a bigger trigger for slugs. Could I hit them without the better trigger? Sure. But if I’m shooting, I’m always after more inherent accuracy. Since you have a H2O, I’d get a FFT trigger pack since they come NP3 plated. I’ve never handled that set that Benelliparts sells, so I can’t comment on them. In the 50+ trigger packs that I’ve done, the biggest issues come from the OEM aluminum trigger frames. Their spec is very loose and can cause issues with the fire control components. Never an issue with the polymer or A&S frames.

Absolutely. The Scalarworks Sync rail is awesome. The RMR or the Aimpoint is a great addition. I like the smaller profile of the RMR. I think there is a larger SRO that has the same foot print now that some might also like.

Tooltech will install Trijicon lamps into your OEM front and rear aperture. But the last time I looked, they wanted an insane amount of money. Like 250 bucks.

Probably more like shops who intake items, break them down and send in the parts for plating. This is my preferred method, since I don’t trust general gunsmiths for reassembly.

I highly doubt they were missing heads. Canoed, maybe.

Just saw that on facebook too. I sent them an email to get in line and show interest.

That’s definitely not right. Looks like the brazing failed and the gas block has separated from the barrel. Definitely a back to Benelli situation. The Benelli forend is not available in the US currently.

I could see it being a benefit when shooting slugs. Any chance you could design the fire control to engage the disconnector longer? The factory design allows the hammer to fall while the bolt carrier is still cycling if you fire too fast. This would be a huge improvement that a lot of owners would be interested in.

The factory one. Nothing is more comfortable. It’s probably the lightest option too. Mount your light/sling to an IWC mount.

Good to hear you resolved it. You might be able to fit the handguard to the shotgun to make it function if you need it.

Sorry, when I type on my phone it likes to auto correct things on this site in weird ways. Then it wouldn't let me edit the post. Right, we're trying to determine what the OP is experiencing. If the hammer is forward or decocked, the trigger will press with no reaction. No click from the hammer falling and striking the firing pin. If the hammer is forward or decocked, without him pressing the trigger, we're looking at a fire control issue where the hammer hook is slipping past the disconnector/trigger seers and riding the bolt carrier home as the action cycles. Leaving a live round in the chamber with the hammer forward or decocked. I'd pull the trigger pack out and test the hammer's function to see if I could recreate the issue. While you're at it, test the safety's function. I'd make sure no ammunition was present, and I'd rack the bolt carrier and see if the hammer falls/decocks itself. If you have 12 gauge dummy rounds, you can use them. If he is having a Benelli Click issue, my first place to try correcting it would be to make sure the handguards are not preventing the barrel from seating fully. In this situation, the hammer would drop when the trigger is pulled, but due to being out of battery and the bolt not fully rotating, the firing pin will not make full contact with the primer when the hammer falls. Light primer strikes may or may not be seen on the primers depending how out of battery the barrel is. I find this to be less likely than the fire control issue since he stated it fired the first chambered round just fine. It's possible, but less likely. Inspection of the seat ring around the base of the barrel that seats against the receiver would be a good starting point. It sounds like the gun has been messed with by the original owner. There is another possibility that the original owner put lightened hammer/trigger spring which can be causing this kind of malfunction. I experienced these kind of issues when I tried the TTI lightened springs and promptly removed them.

Is the US trigger NP3 (silver)? Is there a disconnector and hammer in the spare parts bag?

When you were shooting and the first round fired. What happened when you went to pull the trigger the second time? Did you hear the hammer drop? Or did the trigger do nothing, ie: the hammer was up against the bolt carrier already. This will determine where the issue lies.

I think he means with the Vinci and newer designs. The M4 has had the same bolt since introduction.

You said there is a spare trigger in the parts you bought? Can you confirm if the OEM trigger is in the gun or an aftermarket one? Aftermarket will be marked US and may be NP3 plated.

Take the stock off and see if the receiver extension is silver. If it’s black, it’s a Cerakote model. The box should have a sticker with a model code like below; 11711 - Np3 model. 11794 or 11795 Cerakote model. I’d still lean towards a fire control issue causing the problem. I troubleshot one doing this a few years ago. If I recall, the trigger was the out of spec part. If it was the Benelli Click issue, he would hear the hammer fall when pressing the trigger and no shot would be fired since the hammer would already be lowered against the back of the bolt carrier. There might be light primer strikes on the chambered round, but not always. Also note the aftermarket handguard installation. If not properly fitted, this can cause the barrel to be out of battery slightly. The easiest way to check this is to inspect where the seat ring is on the barrel. This ring seats against the face of the receiver. If there is any gap, something isn’t right. This is assuming I read his diagnostics correctly.