StrangerDanger

I've had good luck with the FFT spring kit. They aren't meant to be lighter or extra power or anything like that. They're produced by Wolff to be a higher quality than OEM springs which tend to take a set. I did not have good luck with the TTI spring kit. I had light primer strikes and ended up removing the springs.

I've read people have had issues with the screw working itself loose. I'd check it whenever you clean it to make sure it isn't walking out on you. That spring washer should help, I'm not sure when it was added.

Don't use loctite on the screw that holds the stock to the receiver extension. Yes, the screw can come loose during shooting. The receiver extension's stock screw wasn't really meant to be used like this. The stock retainer screw is only held in by the snap ring in the end of the receiver extension. So if you have the screw welded in with the loctite, the screw will unscrew from the extension and push thru the snap ring. Then you have the stock and your screw stuck on inside of the stock. People have had to cut the stock open to try to separate the parts. For the trigger pack you can lightly sand the area around the trigger pack on the stock (modify the stock, not the trigger frame) to adjust how tight the fit is.

Glad it made it there safely!

The stampings were different in the various runs. The ground seer contacts were also polished differently between runs.

Both items I had were sold.

I have a brand new black one and a brand new dark earth model if still interested.

It was about an ounce over the polymer unit.

The two flat head screws are a pain. The screws usually destroy themselves when removed. They aren’t cheap to replace at Numrich either. Think like 18 bucks each! You can see the hollow tip of the screw protruding thru the rear sight housing. As you unscrew it, the cupped end tends to break. You can have a hell of a time reinstalling these screws if the threads are damaged bad enough during the break.

Looks cool at least! I’d like to see what they weigh compared to titanium.

Mine never free spun. Sure you can rotate them when in the socket, just like every other handle. I’ve never seen a picture of a snapped off one. Biggest complaint I hear is the handle can be over inserted which can scratch parts up while it cycles. I never had an issue with it.

That’s one of the reasons I like the TTI stainless handle. I wish the left left hand side charging handle mod was possible on the M4.

At that price point, you’re better off buying a m1014 and taking the collapsible stock from it then selling that shotgun back off with the regular pistol grip stock on it. I haven’t seen any stock’s lately. It’s been a dry spell for most of this year. I usually buy mine straight from Benelliparts. I wasn’t real thrilled with Benelli switching the H2O to Cerakote. While Cerakote is a nice finish, it’s a big disingenuous to call it an H2O. They should have gave it a different naming scheme. I had a few clients have me remove the finish and send it to Robar for the real thing. It takes forever and isn’t cheap though.

I had issues with the FFT titanium charging handles and the old Design Concepts titanium charging handles. The tip of the charging handle would deform from being inserted over and over into the bolt carrier. Over time it would get loose and fall out too easily. The titanium was too soft to work against the steel detent inside the carrier. This is why the carriercomp model was so nice, the tips were tool steel. If I was going to get another FTT handle, I’d get the steel model.

Figgy - I’ve heard that Briley is making a carbon fiber mag tube. No weight specs have been released yet. You won’t find a magazine tube that is titanium and Np3 plated. Your H2O isn’t likely Np3 plated. Only the original H2O’s were and they are very expensive now. The current production models are cerakoted to appear silver. You can get a muted finish carriercomp Titanium tube that will match pretty well. I’ve had those NP3 plated in the past and the finish will adhere to the tube. Robar won’t warranty it however. Real NP3 won’t be a perfect match for Cerakote NP3 if that makes sense. Lately the collapsible stock’s have been hard to find which has caused the price to climb. Benelli doesn’t sell these to the public. The main source for these comes from the Benelliparts owner. I guess he has an Italian uncle or something to get them in bulk. No one knows how or where his source is.

I prefer the GG&G bolt release too. They prevent the pad from turning by machining some notches in the button that index with the button pad. You might be able to enhance these TTI buttons by filing the face of the button to create a slight angle for the pad to install at. This isn't ideal though. FFT sells a decent spring kit for the trigger pack. These are made by Wolff and aren't meant to lighten anything. No experience with the benelliparts trigger packs. Simply plating a part doesn't make it US produced. Benelli got in trouble trying this with the original H2O. The ATF shut that down real quick.

Great for slug sighting in jobs! That RMR is a type 2 RM06 which is a 3.5moa dot. They have a better one now the RM09 which has a 1moa dot size. It's come a long way since 2004, and has around 18,000 rounds thru it. It's a mix of nickel boron and NP3+ parts with a burnt bronze Cerakote exterior.

A 1000 bucks and the one I have would be for sale!

I think we got him squared away!

I like some of their products, but others are poorly conceived in my opinion. The TTI shell elevators These are great. I can't tell a difference between the TTI and the FFT unit. They do work well for loading quicker and less pickle fork thumb bite. The TTI Stainless Bolt Handle Many people hate these, but I've never had an issue with them? Others have claimed they have been able to over insert the bolt handle into the carrier. I've never experienced this. The TTI lightened spring kit This caused nothing but light firing pin strikes when I installed them. The TTI oversized bolt release I didn't really like this product. The pad bolts to the outer face of the factory bolt release. Since the bolt release actually pivots to function, you'll notice the forward part of the pad is sticking out pretty far from the receiver. You just added a snag hazard. Drilling and tapping is beyond the skill level of the average owner, making it difficult to install. The TTI oversized safety These were okay, but I prefer the DMW design. The TTI custom package No experience with this. Never heard of anyone with one either. I'd like to try one of the lightened bolt carriers, but not at the package price point.

Yep! Both of my M4’s are plated along with all their sub components. Everything is butter smooth and required zero fitting unlike my adventures in nickel boron.

Hopefully you have a padded vice block or you can use a thick rag. You need to stage the receiver so that you aren’t lighting your rag on fire or the rubber blocks. Email me at [email protected] I’ll give you my number and we can text if that helps.

Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.

The OEM aluminum frames remind me of old Colt AR15 receivers. They’re rough, loads of flashing that was never filed off. Pitting everywhere from impurities in the aluminum. I have ave never seen any issues with a polymer trigger frame. They’re a little lighter than the aluminum model too. I personally carry polymer framed guns on duty and for concealed carry. They’re striker fired evil too! Fewer problems with them in my experience than hammer guns. Fewer wait a minutes. Having said that, the A&S frames are the best. I don’t use the ramp either. I just want a smooth functioning trigger platform that can be plated.

Just make sure you don't remove much material. If you make it too loose, the stock will be able to tighten and untighten to the extent of how much you've opened up the notch. You want it to be tight. Extra care should be taken timing the stock. Even being slightly out of alignment can cause interference.