StrangerDanger

Wow, that’s impressive!

I’d agree, the Benelli oil is nothing special. It’s free and it works fine for me, so I grab it frequently. Running the NP3 finish will give you a leg up. They cycle and operate like my well broken in 15000 round M4. You could probably get away with no lube at all with it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Have you tried that crappy Walmart valuepack stuff? The Winchester brand chokes mine occasionally. I found if someone isn’t solid behind the weapon or they’re of weaker stature, their chances for low recoil rounds failing is increased. Any cautions about operating in low temps changing the viscosity?

Yes, I use oil on the rails. Most greases will slow an action down if you apply it to the moving parts and likely induce failures on lower recoil rounds. Same would apply inside the receiver extension on the spring/plunger. I have a bunch of those bottles of Benelli oil, so I usually run the bolt carrier wet with it. Same with the rail inside the receiver that the bolt carrier rides in. The rest of the inner receiver is just wiped with a surface layer of oil/protection. Maybe noticeably wet if it’s a moving part like the trigger housing pin. I drizzle a little oil down inside the pivot point on the trigger pack. Then grease the sear contact points. I oil the plunger at the back of the receiver and work the action to move some of the oil inside and on to the spring. This is an area that tends to collect grime and should be disassembled after a few thousand rounds or if it has been submerged. I oil the bolt rails heavily as well as well as the bolt head and the recess it rides. Oil the bolt retaining cam pin and firing pin heavily. I leave the ARGO pistons oil free. It tends to just smoke if you oil them and create carbon build up. They’re stainless so they aren’t going to rust easily. Keep oil oil away from inside the magazine tube. It’ll just cause grit to collect and you’ll start experiencing feeding issues, particularly on the last round fed from the tube. i wipe the exterior of the receiver and barrel with a patch with oil and remove all wetness with a cloth.

When it comes grease, a little goes a long way. I’m still on my same tube of Brian Enos’ Slide glide. I’ve lubed up my firearms dozens of times since I got it and done well over 50 clients guns on the same tube from like 2012. I have no idea how much is left in there, I’d guess half? I use regular gun oil in most areas, then grease on sear contact points.

PM went with my email.

Yes, last one I have. Brand new in the wrapper. Brand new spring and follower. PM me and we can make arrangements if interested.

For those of you buying the new A&S Engineering trigger guards, the new production units have safety assemblies that are much easier to manipulate. The supplied spring also offers a much nicer safety tension. The frame also has a indent for the trigger spring to sit in to keep it centered.

Brownells and Numrich carry them. Sometimes they might be out of stock. I usually place an order with Brownells and let them backorder the missing items. They usually ship within a month or two. https://www.brownells.com/schematics/benelli-u-s-a-/m4-sid916.aspx

Sold. One left if anyone else wants it.

https://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide?

I have one or two brand new ones in black. PM me if interested.

A 1/3 cowitness isn’t going to be ideal. It will work, but your cheekweld will be compromised. I prefer the Velcro shell carriers or to keep them on my belt via a California Competition speed loaded. Instead of cherry picking one round at a time, you scoop up 3-4 rounds in to your hand and start stuffing. How many you grab will depend on your hand side. The Velcro ones weigh a lot less and crush flat when not being used.

It’s a one man show relying on vendors to do the machining and anodizing. You’re at the mercy of their whims. You don’t see anyone selling theirs unless they upgraded to a newer model.

They do large batch runs. The last release lasted for about 9 months. I’m not sure if the production numbers have changed for this batch. I’m waiting on some myself for projects.

The unit won’t work on a M2. They're still in operations. Just waiting for the next run of them to be finished up. I don’t think there is a preorder list, and usually it isn’t necessary.

I imagine he removed the button. It's fairly easy to remove the button. Unscrew the three screws holding the cheek rest in place. Then drive the pin out that is aligned fore and aft while pressing on the button slightly.

Good report. How’s your shoulder? This is tough to do on a live range, but what I do is I bring masking tape to cover over my holes between sets. That way I avoid confusing which hole is which when sighting something in. Something I’ve been doing a lot of lately since I’m going through the NRA pistol instructor school early next month. So I’ve been running the piss out of my gen 5 Glock 34 with a RMR on it to meet the shooting requirements. 16/20 rounds inside a 6” circle, no time limit. I bring spray paint to mark a center point after I’ve taped over the target so much that the Orange center is gone.

When you screw on the magazine cap, do you feel a ratcheting sound as it tightens? You’re certain you’re seating the handguards correctly?

That’s what I use. Mine screws in to one of those yellow cylinders and had a wand attachment. About a 1” fire should do. The stock is pretty resilient as long as you aren’t roasting it directly with an open flame.

Glad I could help. I think we charged 60 bucks with return shipping? First step is to remove your buttpad via the two small holes in the rubber pad with a Philips screw driver. Put a little oil or spit on the holes and the screw driver will press in to it without harm. Feel for the driver to index with the hidden screws within. Without having a second 3/8” nut, it would be a nightmare to do the job. You’ll be able to get it apart, but you’ll get stuck on the reassembly. I remove the existing nut with a little heat from a MAPP torch on low flame. These nuts have a nylock polymer insert that helps keep them in place. They should be a one time use item, but you can use them a few times without any real concern. You’ll want a deep socket 3/8” wrench so it will seat over the center shaft that protrudes out through the top of the 3/8” nut. Then install that 3/8” nut on the opposite side tight. This is the tapered end that screws in to the receiver extension as you screw the stock on. You don’t need retard strength; but you want enough torque on it so you can unscrew the center shaft without the nut coming loose on you. This gives you a way to grab the center shaft and apply torque to it. Then I apply more heat to that tomb stone shaped plate. I then unscrew the center shaft via the 3/8” nut from the receiver side of the stock. This is why it has to be on tight. If the threadlocker hasn’t broken down enough, the nut will unscrew instead of the entire center shaft from the tomb stone plate. You watch the end of the stock to see if the shaft is turning. Once the tombstone comes free, you have a stack of spring washers on the shaft. I use a long poker to press against the center shaft then tilt the stock so the washers fall on to the poker in the correct order and arrangement the factory sent them in. If I recall, there are 8 of them and they’re all identical. Each one is concave and you stack them so each two’s dish shaped concave faces each other. Now the center shaft can be removed from the front of the stock since the nut will still be in place. Now you can pull the sling plate out the side of the stock. Wire brush the threads of the center shank and tomb stone plate to clean off the factory threadlocker. Coat the threads with Locktite primer if you want to be fancy. Now for reassembly, you insert your sling plate through the side of the stock in the orientation desired. Then insert the center shaft through from the receiver side of the stock. You should still have your 3/8” nut in place since for all purposes, it’s stuck and there isn’t anything to grab on to with a vice to remove it. This doesn’t matter at this point anyway. With the center shaft in place and held there by your ratchet with a deep 3/8” socket, place the spring washer stack back on the center shank from the rear of the stock. Now reinstall the tomb stone plate and use your socket wrench to screw the center shaft back in to the tombstone tight. There is only one orientation that the tombstone plate will fit. I apply red locktite to the threads that interface with the tombstone plate and the final factory position of the 3/8” nut. You do not want threadlocker on the tapered side of the center shaft that screws in to the receiver extension. Now, install your second 3/8” nut on to the end of the center shaft tightly. With this new nut in place, it will hold the center shank in place so that you can now unscrew your original 3/8” nut that is currently on the tapered side of the shaft. Reinstall your buttpad and you’re good to go. It’s all about being able to apply leverage where you need it. Thank for local Italian engineer for over complicated design. Or you can send it to me! It takes me more time to tape up the box and print the shipping label than the job itself.

Low recoil rounds can have problems cycling in the M4. Especially if it isn’t even trying to eject the hulls. I think it’s the Winchester value pack stuff from Walmart that I don’t get 100% reliability from. The Federal does ok. Your new M4 will break in some over time and soften up. Since you have a Cerakote model of the H2O, it performs as well as the black models. The NP3 plated M4’s perform a little better out of the box. I personally go for the 2 3/4” shells for defensive situations. Hotter the better. The 3” stuff is overkill and you deal with reduced capacities and the problems with heavier recoil like slower follow up shots.

I like how the top rail came out and the front sight delete. It’s almost like vent rail sights down the picatinny rail. Looking forward to hearing your range report and how the stock feels with recoil. And not to thread hijack, but you can send an A&S frame to Robar and have them NP3 plated. I have done several of them and they hold up well. I had one plated recently for my burnt bronze build. I need to send it to my painter to have the exterior visible areas painted burnt bronze, I’ve just been lazy.

My mistake, I completely missed the receiver extension being black indicating its a Cerakote model.

Looks like you have an actual NP3 plated M4 instead of the Cerakote model. An important distinction for potential buyers. I don’t believe the factory is making anymore with NP3.

Would be glad to help. It’s impossible to take apart without heat inside a polymer stock. So that is always fun. You also need a second 3/8” nut to reassemble the stock properly.