StrangerDanger

It may not be his direct issue, but it will help any M4 function better. Especially when loading the last round from the magazine tube. This is when the spring is at its weakest. The oem spring doesn’t last long and takes a set really quickly.

The 11796 is painted in silver Cerakote to look like the 11711 which is actually plated in Np3 by Robar in Arizona. If I recall, the 11711’s are no longer produced.

Try rubbing that mark with an oily rag. Sometimes those surface blemishes will rub off of the NP3. The Np3 guns need to be broken in more than the stock ones in my experience. The plating stacks the tolerances and makes everything a little tighter. Run it wet with oil and burn a couple hundred heavy loads through it. The mag spring upgrade wouldn’t be a bad idea.

What about an Ava Tactical mount? The mod 1 has the mlok section that you could attach a picatinny rail section to, then mount a GoPro to it?

Get a tornado brush if you’re going to shoot a lot of slugs. They smear lead inside the barrel. The tornado seems to do the best as scrubbing it out.

Thanks. Hard to tell she has over 15k rounds through it. 1. The TangoDown stippling is really aggressive. Almost too aggressive. It feels like skateboard tape when you get it. After it tears up your hands some it looses its sharpness with what I imagine is a layer of dead skin. Either that or my hands got tougher. 2. Your Doberman is a lot bigger in diameter and has a much higher rated output. The IWC M600 Light body is perfect for the new Ava mount. One of the mounting lugs is held captive by the mount, so it cannot slip. I then machined the shroud off of the Surefire Scout Light tailcap to permit it to sit so close to the weapon. The light rides so tight that I cannot install the larger diameter Surefire M600 IB lamp I have unfortunately. Another future scalability issue is the newer Surefire lights with the rechargeable batteries require a larger diameter body. Not a lot, but noticeable. I’m curious to see how these work in this rendition of the mount. Since the new Surefires have a rated output of 1500 lumens. I need to see if IWC plans on making a replacement body for these. 3. The shell carrier is from TTI, but they are similar to the FFT. I have noticed some difference between the tips. Some have more curvature downward than others. I don’t have a preference for either one. 4. The sling mount is from IWC, it is a Magpul MOE QD socket that will fit through the existing sling loop without any modifications.

Optic view targetting my Bob with a Jerry t-shirt.

Added some new pictures to show the current changes to my original M4, 11703. Added a TangoArms set of stippled Freedom Fighter Tactical forearms. Swapped out my black type 1 RMR RM01 with a type 2 FDE Cerakote model RM06. I took the old black RMR over to a gen 5 Glock 34 I'm building up. Scalarworks rail was swapped out with the Sync model. I had the visible portion of the shell elevator painted carbon black. The visible area of the Freedom Fighter Tactical trigger was painted in carbon black Cerakote. The Ava Tactical mod 1 mount was installed with a Surefire M600U 500 lumen output lamp on a IWC M600 body, and a Surefire Scout Light tailcap that I machined. The unit was then painted in burnt bronze Cerakote.

Like Uno said, it varies and it is part finding what your particular weapon/choke likes. Removing as many shooter variables as you can helps a lot. This really shines when you dial in slugs for a red dot at a set range, then test at variable ranges so you know how the round me rise and drop over distance. Example, is your POI 5” below your POA at a 100 yards.

As mentioned above, use a B27 on a stable stand. Mark the target so you have a precise point of aim. I’d recommend getting a table to brace. Better would be a rifle rest to minimize human error. Fire 3 or 5 rounds slowly and see where the group strikes. Your cold shots may be different than a hot barrel, so keep that in mind. Adjust the sights to compensate for elevation and wind age and fire another group. Make corrections as needed. At 25 yards, I’d try to get your point of impact to be right at the top edge of the front sight blade. Not occluding the target with the sight blade and holding the front dot over your target. This helps a lot when these shots stretch out to a 100 yards. I’d wait until the barrel cools and fire another group to see if you POI changed at all. I’d then pattern some buckshot at various distances so you get an idea of the pattern with that particular ammunition. Note if your pattern matches up with your slit impact point. I use use masking tape to cover over holes so I don’t get confused as to what group is which. It’ll make a single target last quite a while.

Too much constriction and it’ll damage the slug and cause accuracy problems. Ive fired a bunch of those steel sabot slugs without issues. I used the Hexolite32’s. Their recoil is mild for a slug and they hit like a brick. I fired some through an old 60’s car door without issue.

Yes. Mine has never found one it didn’t like. From sabbots to rifled slugs and everything in between.

Smokin deal. Have you considered sending it in to Robar and having your own built? Pricing might be similar.

Thanks for the shout out, glad to hear you got the trigger weight down. You'll want to buy some Brian Enos' Slide Glide, the standard weight to apply to the sear contact points on your trigger. It'll keep the pull smooth and grit free. The grease goes a long way so not much is needed. It's tacky, so it stays where you put it. Are you going to have the Briley trigger plated in NP3? I'd ask Briley what they think about it if so. I'd hate for it to change your trigger pull. A guy I know is looking at sending his factory H2O M4 to Salient. The TiNi the carrier and a few other parts, the Briley trigger set will match up with it nicely. After it goes to Salient, it's going to Robar for NP3 finish on select parts.

Yep! Mine was before Ava came out with their awesome mount. No need to spend hours grinding and test fitting to make something that was of questionable strength. I surmised a solid hit to the light would knock out the handguard. Using epoxy and blending everything together came out better than I expected cosmetically. I remember thinking it was an absolute coat hanger abortion before!

The tool Scout_21 mentioned up top will solve your problems. It lets you really torque it down a lot tighter than the OEM tool.

I cut the handguard to fit a Thorntail light mount in to the handguard. It took a lot of fitting on the handguard and thinning of the bracket. The epoxy covers two screws that hold the bracket to the inside of the handguard. I had to use a large plate for both screws to get as much support as possible for the mount. The handguard was then Cerakoted to cover the work area. I then bent the Thorntail bracket to align the light with the barrel.

Nice! Is a NP3 plated model or the Cerakote?

This is likely why the Israeli model went with a 12” package to keep the capacity at 4 in the tube. 3+1 would be a tough sale in an auto loader.

Thank you! These ones are fun to put together. Having hundreds of parts laid out and knowing how to reassemble everything months later is an awesome sight.

Got some better pictures of this. Just waiting on Cerakote for the light head and tailcap lock ring.

Maybe this helps? It appears there are some design changes between these models?