StrangerDanger

Thanks. If you run in to any issues, let me know. From my memory, carriercomp/Wolff springs are round wire.

For the M4, I'm partial to the carriercomp full length magazine tubes with their Wolff spec magazine spring. I take the magazine tube and polish the internals with a shotgun cleaning rod wrapped in steel wool. A few minutes in a drill chuck and you end up with a mirror polished magazine tube. It minimizes the cheese grater noise of the spring and makes you cooler. My best ones are NP3+ plated then polished. NP3+ isn't warrantied to adhere to titanium, but I have had no problems.

I've done a few of them. I don't like doing them though since they take several hours to do by hand. You then run in to refinishing issues afterwards. The only real risk area is around the shell stop release pin. You don't want to thin the material too much to weaken the latch. Removing material by hand is slow going, so there isn't a whole lot of risk of overdoing it. I use a large flat file to shape everything before finishing them up with a dremel. I then enlarge the mouth of the loading port by grinding it out at a steep angle on both sides. This adds about half an inch of additional room inside the loading port area. I polish everything heavily with an abrasive polishing wheel. By the time I'm done, the edges are butter smooth and there are no sharp angles. Everything is radiused over including the front of the loading port. You have to pick a transition point how you want the rear of the loading port to blend in with the front. I do a polished out angled taper. Using one of the TTI or FFT elevator's helps improve the loading. It's best when the receiver is being refinished. I have someone's coming back in a few weeks from Robar. We removed the crappy painted on Cerakote H2O finish, and had NP3+ applied. I'm sending a old school M1014 for NP3+ for a client in a few weeks too. That should look interesting on a flag model.

Somebody buy this. Does it have the Surefire body or the IWC backbone body?

Count me in on this one.

That front sling mount does look like that one I made a few years back. Overall, not a big fan of these design changes. I’d like to try the new stock to see if the cheek weld is improved at all. Not a huge fan of the “picatinny rail all the thingz” approach. In the AR world, that trend finally died a few years back. The rear QD sling mount is too low in my opinion. It would cause the slung shotgun to want to roll. This is really pronounced on guns with a pistol grip. What I also noticed is the receiver extension appears to have more adjustment positions. The profile of the notches appear to be different too, so I doubt this stock is backward compatible unless you can get ahold of one of these style receiver extensions. They appear to have tried to make the stock compatible with the M3 and the Super Nova.Anyone else having issues with formatting replies? Making paragraphs in my replies doesn’t show up in the actual post.

Yep. Don’t count on it lasting. I’ve been slowly migrating to imagru. Their service is better for uploading anyway.

Always had poor luck with the forum client, I’d recommend imagru. It’s free and not too annoying to use.

I have never seen one of these for sale apart from the complete M4.

I randomly get that message for hours at a time. Usually about once a week.

There was another data point to consider in this. Iron sights vs. receiver mounted optics. If I recall, the shift was less pronounced with iron sights since the front sight shifted with the barrel.

Seems like a good test. Order a titanium 5 round and leave the install loose so you can swap them. Assess if the tube influences the POA/POI. If no influence, keep the titanium. If it does, sell it for a profit. Win/Win.

I’ve seen 18.5” barrels for sale for like 350-400 places like gunbroker.

Correct. Doesn’t Stev Rose chop 18.5” barrels down? If I recall, he even offers threading services if desired. As cheap as used 18.5” barrels are, this might be a cheaper, better route to go.

Package arrived safely today. Thanks a lot!

Right? I fought with them for a while trying to even then out. Not really sure what the deal is. Fortunately my OCD isn’t excessive!

Done! I put my address in the comments. Thanks!

I haven’t used their tape switches. I’ve always stuck with Surefire for professional work. I like the mounting options available for the Surefire lights.

If you do PayPal gifting, I’ll take the trigger and springs.

It's really surprising that there aren't more pressure switch options that are of high quality. Or, better yet a revison from Surefire. The design of their plug for the tape switches isn't the best either. Example, I'd make it so that the end use could install a screw locking the plug in to the cap to prevent it being ripped out. I'd also make it angled inward towards the weapon. The pad itself needs work. I did make a grip activated weapon light for the Benelli M4 on the pistol grip. I had a 40" Surefire tape switch and I removed the rubberized grip and cut a channel in to the grip for the tape switch to seat. The wire then loomed inside the stock and came out near the top and routed forward along the top rail to the weapon light. I used a SideArmor top rail at the time which allowed for routing the cable easily. The rubberized grip then slid over the grip with the activation pad in it. So you had momentary control over the weapon light from the grip kind of like a set of CTC laser grips. It was okay, but it was prone to accidental light discharges when slung.

This is a common problem with the Geissele hammers as well. Tolerances on the tighter side. Tight tolerances aren't always a good thing. In combat weapons, it's good to have some slop to allow it to operate in poor conditions. It hasn't shown to be a reliability problem as of yet. I can't say much about the A&S packs, but I put about 2500 rounds through the M4 without cleaning it. I just shot extra oil in randomly. Eventually I just got bored and cleaned it which ended that little test. Shotguns tend to have a lot more debris flying around in the action than other firearms. Buffer media within the shot shells ends up everywhere including in the trigger pack. A&S has a video on facebook showing them comparing OEM trigger packs with witness pins. They showed there is some variation between batches of trigger packs including the polymer ones.

The Surefire pressure switches aren’t that great. There are lots of dead spots in the switches. The newer ones aren’t as bad, but the SR07 and older style that look like rubber inner tube are unusable in my opinion. The Taps units are top shelf for tactile response. I tried using one one of the standard Taps earlier this year. The lack of programming meant you couldn’t dedicate specific buttons to a task. It was like button one does momentary output to lead 1 and button 2 does momentary output to lead 2. With the pro model, you can set the switches to whatever lead or both leads. Then toggle if the button is momentary or constant on. If I decide I can’t mount the switch block on the Benelli, I’ll throw it on my AR on the key of rail and move my light to the right side.

The Limbsaver is a model 10111. It isn’t a direct fit. You’ll need a Noveske adapter plate. To make the collapsible stock functional in the fully collapsed position, you’ll need to modify the pad and the adapter plate. You’ll need to drill a hole in to the buttpad where the receiver extension passes through the stock and into the pad. If I recall it’s like a 3/4” or 7/8” hole. The adapter plate needs a section cut out of it to permit the receiver extension to pass through as well. I just hacksaw the section out and shape the pieces on the grinder. Each piece is held in place by one screw. When you screw the stock in to place, it bridges the parts and keeps them solidly together. Youll need to source some 8mm long screws for the Noveske adapter. I get them from my local hardware store. The screws supplied will fit for the buttpad to screw in to the adapter plates. You can can count on a realistic reduction in perceived recoil of about 40%. Harder the load, the better it performs. No issues with lighter loads either. You may may be right about the Taps switch. It is rather big and thick. I don’t have an issue with where the buttons would be. The momentary button would be beneath my thumb, and the secondary button would be set to a constant on toggle within reach of my thumb. The issue is attaching it in a functional manner. You can’t cut the handguard too deep since the piston housing is there. Mid I can get by without using their bottom plate, my job will be much easier. If mounting to that Strike rail, the mLOK would fit well. I’m just not sure if I can tolerate all that cheese grater machining.

Awesome jobs. Thanks for the pics!

So I ordered a TNVC Taps Pro pad to give the bedded switch a try. Sadly it’s back ordered for eight weeks. Lame. Rough concept goal is to cut a recess in to the forearm in to the smooth area of the forearm where my thumb instinctively rests. Route the wire through the inside of the handguard over to the right side. Notch the handguard to allow the wire to exit next to the barrel and connect with the Surefire in the Ava Tactical mount. Excess wire will then be pushed inside the handguard. I want to use the mLOK mount and notch the back side of the handguards to give the mount a purchase. There are a few things to try with the switch. I want to see if I can make it work without the base plate. Just screw it in to the handguard itself. Might chop the laser wire off and program the switch to be momentnary and constant on. I’ll drop a mLOK QD sling mount on to the Ava Tactical mLOK Mount to keep my sling option working.