StrangerDanger

Yeah - You’re going to have a bad time indoors with any firearm. I’ve played with the concept of building an internally suppressed AR, but haven’t done it yet. I’m applying for my SOT this year to facilitate it. A pistol caliber AR would be an excellent host or maybe just 300 blackout. The 300 would be better since you don’t run in to the magazine and bolt hold open issues that the Glock pattern lowers have.

Like a FLIR optic? You’ll need to most forgiving eye relief model to keep from getting kissed. Most of the ones I used requires you to have your eye pretty close to the reticle to minimize the light spill. Agreed on the M121. Ours broke several times. Barrel hanger sheered off kind of stuff. Love it though. For indoors, smaller is better. I was tasked one time to clear an old mine that we were getting reports of noises inside. At the time I had a short barreled Noveske rifle in around 10.5” if I recall. In the confined spaces I elected to drop it to the slung position and continue on with the pistol. It ended up just being water seeping through the ceiling into a pool of water I’d be worried about making something too complicated to be used. The more bells and whistles, the more training is required to be proficient. Are yours willing to get slapped around by the shotgun every couple months on the range and tear up their nails loading the shotgun? Anything with an optic, I’d want to be a long running dot optic that is always on. Anything you have to turn on takes too long under duress. Magnification is likely to hinder more than help when it comes to speed.

The M4 will tolerate less than ideal stance better than the M2. Even our old M121 is a donkey kicking bastard compared to the M4. Weak loads in a Benelli may still cause failure to feed situations. I’m not a fan of the dreaded Benelli click if you shoot faster than the gun can cycle. I prefer an AR15 over the Benelli for the house; -Higher capacity -Easier/faster to reload -significantly less recoil -Smaller overall length -Less over penetration issues with appropriate ammunition -Arguably simpler controls -Lighter weight, which can really be reduced with the blooming aftermarket these days -Longer capable range if needed -Easier Weapon light configurations and manipulations

An foreign made muzzle device may count against you on parts count; but won’t help your count by adding a US made one.

Style wise, the Mesa rail is pretty ugly. It's like putting magic Mormon underwear on your hot Italian girlfriend.

I'd look into the IWC mount. It's solid lightweight and rides close to the shotgun. You don't need any specialized tailcaps to make it fit either. Price wise it is probably the cheapest option out there too. I always found I wanted to activate the light with my support hand thumb. So I don't see it being comfortable to mount the tape switch at the rear of the handguard. The Hayl positions were decent, they landed under where my thumb would naturally sit on the handguard. That mounting system is a deal breaker though.

When you sent it in, did it have the TTI safety installed? Or did you put that in afterwards? I'd contact them, that definitely isn't safe.

I’d agree. Looks OEM based on the screw markings for the cheek rest. Looks like it has a Limbsaver buttpad and a IWC QD sling mount also.

Not a fan of the MLOK mount placements. You don’t want the mounted item right where your hand will be. The Hayl rail had better positioning, but its set screw interface was worse than cancer.

Nice work. I did a similar one years ago and made it ambidextrous with the flush mounted QD cups. I think I used a cup from Magpul that was threaded on the inside. So one fastener went through one end and into the threaded unit. It worked reasonably well, but I found I preferred the IWC mount attached to the tailstock on the ejection port side. This looped the sling around the outside of my arm and kept it from bunching up between the buttpad and the pocket of my shoulder. Plus it was a lot easier to install!

Sorry to hear this happened to you. What I would do is I would purchase the parts you need from Brownells. Then install them in to a new A&S housing with your selected aftermarket parts. I’ll gladly assemble the trigger pack for you free of charge if it isn’t something you want to handle.

Glad I could help. I know when I came across this problem back around 2010, there were zero options available to get this fixed. Benelli would tell you that you’d destroy the receiver attempting to change these extensions out.

On the round that was chambered, any sign of a light firing pin strike on the primer? Does this problem occur every time or just sometimes? How many rounds have been fired through this firearm? Has the receiver extension ever been disassembled and flushed of debris? Are these failures temperature related? Ie, more prone in cold weather? Has the trigger pack been modified at all?

The GG&G bolt release comes right to the edge of the flag. [/img]

Last I heard Joel was having some kind of personal problems. I don’t know what that is specifically. Hopefully things get resolved for him and this show gets back on the road. For the mean time I have been pushing the IWC mount. They’re good units and a simpler design. I like the attachment system better than the Ava Tactical Mount. The Ava Tactical Mount just looks better and rides closer to the barrel. Which creates its own problems such as light tailcap shroud contact and increased barrel shadowing.

They’re a nice piece. They seem identical to the TTI model.

It looks ok. The part to pay attention to is where the barrel seats against the receiver. You want that ring to make contact. If the hand guards aren’t right, it’ll usually have a small gap.

Thanks for the recommendation. Using a heat gun takes forever and sometimes doesn’t work. A MAPP torch will break down the thread locker in a few minutes. It has a nice controllable flame to keep the heat off the receiver and in the old receiver extension mainly.

Good info. I watched it. The only way the values would be better is if you had an 18.5” M4’s barrel to run in comparison to the 14”. That way they were taken from the same platforms. I expected more velocity, or a bigger penalty from the short 14” than presented.

Is the stock preventing it from seating properly?

Same question I asked! We can hope.

I spoke with carriercomp last night and they stated that currently they are looking at only 4-5 week order time frames. I don’t think it has ever been that short.

Benelliwerks - you’re not concerned about removing the surface hardness by removing material from the pocket of the charging handle? I thought there was a maximum distance travelled by the detent since it is retained inside its hole?

No problem. You can also rotate the bolt handle and engage it by one of the other two bevels. My guess is the issue is with the detent though and you’ll have poor retention in all three index points. The pin is easy to get out, but it’s a huge pain to get back in since it’s so short. You have to get the pin started, then compress the spring and detent with a small punch while you drive the pin in. Once the pin is partially in, you can keep the spring under it while you drive the pin the rest of the way in. Having a vice will help. Having a second person would help even more.

You're lucky you found that thing! Have you looked at the tip of the carriercomp handle to see if it is worn at all? What you could try is to replace the bolt detent and spring. You could use a spacer inside the spring channel to increase the spring tension. One fast way to test if it is the carriercomp handle or not is by sticking the OEM handle in and see if the tension is the same. https://www.brownells.com/schematics/benelli-u-s-a-/m4-sid916.aspx#s50320sid916 https://www.brownells.com/schematics/benelli-u-s-a-/m4-sid916.aspx#s50296sid916