StrangerDanger

There are a few I haven't fully populated yet! One is dedicated to reloading tools and equipment. Another has my sockets and wrenches. Drawers for Dremel tools. Another is filled with my electrical diagnostic equipment. One has a bunch of lathe tooling. Bench blocks and vice fixtures. It's rarely ever that clean though!

That bandolier does look nice. The cheapie blackhawks I have are just stuffed under my bed. To be honest, the Benelli is only on my menu if I have a bear issue. Two legged predators get the AR15 or Glock 19.

I have six Milwaukee work benches in my shop currently. Each one has a thick rubberized mat on them. I bolted my new Wilton vise to the wood top to one of them. The main work area gives me a work bench that is 10' x 4' wide. All soft close drawers on these benches. An ultrasonic cleaner is over on one of the back wall benches full of Hoppes #9. I'll be bringing in a blast cabinet in soon. My lathe is out of view in these shots.

I don't have pictures, but I have a couple of those LaRue pistol bags and a duty gear bag that has a hard plastic liner. It's great for muffs and some basic tools. The LaRue bags are set up for my pistol caliber magazines. I have a staple gun and painters tape in with it for serving targets. Generally I tape over the holes to get hundreds of rounds out of a paper target. I also have room for the Labradar and inserts for the Ransom Rest.

I think it would be more of an issue if the limits were being approached. There are a whole bunch of 8 round shell carriers from Mesa out there with optics bolted to the top. You're looking at 24-30 ounces of weight depending on configuration being bolted on. We'd see a lot more examples of the screws being stripped out if it were the case far beyond what our resident autistic could find over several decades of tech questions. I wouldn't recommend adding all that weight anyway since the firearm is much more functional in a lightweight build out. Keeping extra rounds on your body is better than slapped on the side of your firearm too. Cherry picking one round at a time from a side saddle is significantly slower than say a California Competition speed loader. If the concept is to keep rounds with the gun for a bump in the night situation; you'd be served better by putting one of those Blackhawk bandoliers that carry like 55 rounds with the shotgun.

lol I thought those were transmutation circles tattooed on his arms from Full Metal Alchemist. Actually, that would have been cooler.

It's definitely not a direct match. It doesn't look bad but it is a different tone of silver than NP3 is. I'd reach out to Wright and see if they'll tear down the M4 for you. If not, I'd gladly take care of it for you now that we have a working path laid out.

I do Proof Research barrels on a lot of AR builds. Bull barrel performance at standard barrel weight profiles. Obviously .223 runs out of gas pretty fast. I have a Nightforce 7-35x56 that is fun to wring out the performance of the round on.

Wright Armory seemed like they would do simple stuff and had some gunsmithing service options. I'm not sure if they'd be willing to disassemble the M4 since a few areas are a specialty area. Areas like removing the receiver extension from the receiver. I sent a bunch of titanium parts in, so hopefully they just do it like they have in the past. That's my hope is that they just don't warranty the work. I was quoted 2-5 weeks, which is significantly faster than Robar was at 12-16 weeks. We'll see if that's legit.

You’re probably right about applying the green wicking Loctite to the base before seating the rail. Torque the screws and wipe up any excess. I might add that going forward since it doesn’t hurt anything. Scalarworks realized that the forces encountered weren’t that severe. They only use 4 of the 5 holes for the Sync rail. Granted these are smaller optics. But if it were even somewhat near the fence on strength, I would imagine they would have used all available holes and maybe butted the rear of the rail up against the rear sight housing.

I looked around the usual places. Numrich doesn’t even list the 22lr firing pin. You might need to find a good gunsmith who can make you one.

Your explanation of what must occur for damage to occur mirrors my experience. Improper installation is the main source of failure for damn near anything in any field. The only way you’re damaging the rail is by over torquing the screws and stripping the threads or if the screws come loose and the rail starts moving around under recoil. The factory screws have nice lock washers that help bite into the anodized aluminum rail since the factory doesn’t use locktite there. Locktite generally weeps beneath the rail during an install and will provide some adhesive bonding the rail to the receiver. I usually have to hit the rail with a light plastic tipped no mar hammer to break it free. Had this been a real issue, Benelli would have extended the rail so that it butted up to the rear sight housing to minimize rail movement.

Amazon has some new ones in stock.

That's what I use too.

You've got a decent camera too. Better than Strike Industries product pictures.

Pretty much everything Jolly Roger said. I'd recommend buying a spring from carriercomp. They're the best out there. The job is insanely easy to do.

To answer your other question, Benelli did some runs of dark earth in Cerakote around the same time they did the fake H2O in silver. Farther back Benelli has a tan Benelli M4 that was in tri-color. I don’t believe this was Cerakote.

FFT has been doing their trigger kits in NP3 for a while now. A year or two back they began to plate the disconnector and hammer to match the trigger. I’ve had a bunch of them done myself when plating some Geissele hammers. Never noticed any performance change on the trigger pull. What I did notice an improvement on is when pulling the bolt carrier to the rear. The finish smooths out the action some since the bolt carrier drags over the hammer during the action cycle.

I know my shipments to them in the past would be hit and miss for mostly small parts. Like sometimes they’d refuse to plate the snap ring that holds the trigger bushing pin. Other times they’d plate even AR15 safety detents. Can’t imagine why they’d skip the hammer. It’s one of the biggest benefit parts in the whole package.

Really? The ones I saw were not. They definitely should be done. Seems there was some inconsistencies during their production with Robar.

The JP will solve that loud buffer for sure. Buy the model that comes disassembled and has like five different spring weights. The factory assembled ones are a real bitch to get apart. I have to roast them with a MAPP torch for like a minute to get them to break free. Having the various weights lets you dial in action which reduces perceived recoil. While obviously .223 isn't much recoil wise, it matters for follow up shots and minimizing sight disruption. I'm hoping to see some slight improvement by having it NP3+ plated. Having those teflon embedded parts meshed together is really nice.

Scout and Evolution covered most of it. The only thing I'd caution is Benelli did a bit of a bait and switch with the H2O models. The original H2O was NP3 plated. The current ones are Cerakoted to look like they're NP3 plated. Cerakote does pretty good at protecting the finish, but it does not have the embedded teflon substrate that makes it function without lubrication. The Cerakote models didn't even paint the small moving parts because Cerakote isn't really good for that. It's too thick and uneven of a finish that will cause tolerance stacking issues. I just sent my first batch of parts out today to Wright Armory. They're picking up where Robar left off for getting the plating done with CTL. CTL won't deal with the little people directly. I tried to send batches of a few thousand parts in and it wasn't enough for them to bother with me. We'll see how it goes with Wright Armory. The owner has been working with me directly to get everything lined up like the chemical stripping for the aluminum parts. For fun, I sent a good portion of my Dillon 650 in with this batch to get it plated. Including the main ram, shell plates, most of the screws, primer system and so on. My 650 is pretty tricked out with aftermarket parts like a Mr. Bullet Feeder. I process a lot of pistol brass with it. So anything to help keep it running smooth and grit free is a huge benefit. If you have one, you know they're prone to rusting, so it'll be a good upgrade for it. I sent in a client's high end AR15's. A close quarters model, and a long range precision build with a Nightforce optic. Carbon fiber wrapped barrels on both. Lithium aluminum receivers and so on. I disassembled the JP Enterprises silent buffers and sent all the parts for plating. I even took the UBR stock apart and sent the steel internal parts and screws in. Another issue with the Benelli H2O's is they didn't plate as much as they should have. They left a lot of the parts unfinished which hurt its performance and resistance to corrosion. They didn't plate the ARGO system at all or the rear sight assembly. Its nice being able to send your accessories in to get everything matching too.

Big optic and big side saddle? Living dangerously with all that "SHEER" force.

This is my favorite setup for a right handed user. Note the connector on the stock is on the ejection port side. Rear Sling Mount: https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/ Front Sling Mount: https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/multi-light-benelli-m4-mount-scout/ Sling: https://www.blueforcegear.com/slings/custom-sling-builders Since the Ava Tactical weapon Light mount isn't available anymore as shown in the picture, I'd recommend using the IWC light/sling mount. It will work just as well. I like the BlueForceGear padded QD sling with sewn in connectors. They have lots of color options to pick from. I recommend mounting the rear connector on the ejection port side if you're right handed. Having the sling loop to the outside will help control roll. It'll keep the sling from bunching up when shouldering the shotgun. Having the connector on the inside would poke me when I'd have the shotgun slung on my back. Previously I would have issues where the sling would prevent me from getting the stock in to the pocket of my shoulder. With it wrapped to the outside, this isn't an issue anymore. I started slinging my rifles the same way now.

While you're at it, disassemble the magazine tube and clean it out well. Do not put any lubricant on the spring, follower or inside the magazine tube. How does the trigger pack feel when you take it out and move the components like the shell elevator and hammer? Any signs of resistance or grit? Tearing it down and cleaning it might be a good idea. My M4 tutorial guide will work for disassembling and reassembling the Super Sport pack fairly close. I'd look for signs of wear on the extractor claw to make sure it isn't slipping off the shells. Does the extractor claw feel like it has good tension? This spring is difficult to replace, so if it seems okay, leave it alone for now. Scrub out the chamber well to make sure no molten plastic shells are present and no lead deposits are causing the shells to stick. A Tornado brush works the best for removing deposits. If the shells are sticking in the chamber, it could be causing issues with extraction. I'd consider replacing the inertia spring and springs inside the trigger pack/bolt carrier and recoil spring tube after 50,000 rounds. Brownells is a great source for them. Light lubricant everywhere in this firearm. Grease on sear contact points in the trigger pack only.