StrangerDanger

You could get the bolt carrier painted in Cerakote to match. A good shop would just paint the visible portion of the bolt carrier. No need to paint the back side or the rails. Getting it actually NP3 plated would be better performance wise, but it would take longer and be pretty expensive.

All of the Cerakote painted M4’s come with black bolt carriers. Only the real NP3 plated H2O’s had their bolt carrier groups plated.

The factory magazine cap can’t be plated since it has a plastic overmolded portion on it. Now if you got an all metal extension, it might be an option. I disassembled his pistol grip stock and had the sling plate and internals NP3 plated. Even the screws in the buttpad were plated. I have a new concept model I’m working on that uses the Briley 13” rail plated. Then the light is moved out to the end of the rail so that it is flush with the muzzle. The activation button is then routed to where it is comfortable for the user to hit with their support hand thumb using a Unity Tactical MLOK Hot Button. Then maybe use some Railscales G10 Dragon Scales for rail covers and a angled QD sling mount from Strike Industries.

It’s pretty bad ass if you’re an early 90’s ninja turtle.

Thanks. Ken makes his rounds every few months to give us all a good laugh. I’m sure he has an opinion on how to properly lace shoes too.

All the main points are pretty much covered. Weight savings is the main draw. I found the carriercomps interior to be smoother and better finished than the OEM steel tubes. I run my polishing jig down the inside of them anyway and bring them to a near mirror finish. Polishing jig is a fancy name for a shotgun cleaning rod with a fine steel wool patch inside a drill chuck motor.

Yep, if you need any specifics, let me know. Pricing is expensive. An entire Benelli M4 with accessories ran about 1100.

Yes it is unfortunately. On some builds I have had the exterior surfaces blasted off and then they are Cerakoted whatever color the user wants. This build got mailed back to the owner today.

I was looking at going with the Briley 13" rail today. The Briley rail ends almost where the current weapon light head ends on my M600 Intellibeam. Which we can say is roughly 5.5 inches long. On my setup, the light starts at 7.5". I can only estimate with the Briley rail, but I would estimate that it would start from the 12-13.5 inch range. That would get my light nearly flush with the muzzle which would eliminate barrel shadow. There is a variable in using the Impact Weapon Components MLOK light mount. There are three options available. The first isn't meant to overhang off the end of the rail. Two and three are beefier and designed to extend forward off of the rail. I think we can get buy with option 1 which is lighter and cleaner of an installation.

I took this shotgun back out today for more testing at my range since what better way to spend a day sheltered in place than to go out shooting. I ran a couple hundred rounds of cheap value pack ammo from both Winchester and Federal thru it to see if it would fail. I held the shotgun off to my side with the stock fully collapsed so that I could simulate limp wrist firing with this weak ammunition. Each time it was fired I would allow the shotgun to jerk back in my hands which absorbs some of its inertia energy. This thing ate it all without any issues. I've encountered a lot of issues with this value pack stuff on stock guns in the past. The NP3 plating opens up your operational window more by having a lower friction coefficient on your action. This is the main reason I like the finish. Corrosion resistance and ease of cleaning are secondary features.

It is plated. The older carriercomp followers allowed you to knock the plastic high visibility indicator out of the factory follower and install it into the carriercomp one.

Here is my deductive reasoning. If you’re going to mount the light where the Strike Industries or the short Briley rail provides, you might as well just use a IWC mount and skip the weight/cost penalty. The Truckee has the mlok sockets in the wrong spot in my opinion, so it’s a no go. Now if you can deal with the weight penalty of the longer Briley rail, you pick up the option of mounting the light so that you’ll have minimal barrel shadowing. This is a big step forward from the IWC or Ava Tactical mounting options which have massive amounts of shadowing to the opposite side that the light is mounted. It’s tough to beat the ergonomics of the OEM handguard. I haven’t handled the Briley rail yet, but I imagine it’s not terrible. Add some nice rail covers and it’ll be better. The Strike Industries rail felt good, but it had its stupid mounting system. It also mounts a light about where the IWC/AVA solutions do, so why bother? As for mounting a laser, as long as your expectations are forgiving, you’ll be alright. The rails don’t quite seat to the same place every time. It’ll be good enough for shotgun distances.

I might have to stimulate the economy when I get my Trump bucks and put one together too!

Glad you got it worked out and didn’t damage the spring!

This rail looks like it might have some potential. The extended length might get two cell light pretty close to the muzzle to minimize barrel shadowing. The user could then use the new Unity Tactical Hot Button mlok remote switch. Mlok remote activation switch. https://arisakadefense.com/collections/tailcaps-remotes/products/unity-hot-button-m-lok Replacement weapon light body, not necessary but recommended. https://arisakadefense.com/collections/tailcaps-remotes/products/modlite-18650-body Impact Weapon Components Inline Mlok light Mount https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/thorntail-inline-for-m-lok/ Surefire M600DF 1500 lumens https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/surefire-m600df-scout-blk-1500-lumen/ Surefire remote switch cap. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/surefire-m6xx-sw-tail-cap-no-cable/ Or https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/surefire-replcemnt-rear-cap-m300-600/ Angled Mlok QD sling mounts https://www.strikeindustries.com/shop/si-link-aqd.html

I believe so.

Thanks for the pictures. Weird that it will go in when in the 45 degree angle. You can remove the button by pressing it in slightly while you use a punch to tap out the roll pin that is shown in the photo. Can you shine a light into the screw hole in the different positions to see what is obstructing the screw in the properly aligned position? My guess is the spring is obstructing the screw.

Helijunkie- If you get stuck anywhere, IM me and I’ll send you my email/cell to talk you thru it. Same goes for anyone else on the forum.

Correct on the Limbsaver model. It fits much better than the old 10111 model. It has a lip that fits inside the stock to help center the pad. No Noveske adapter plate needed. I did have to source some screws for mounting the buttpad. M4, 0.7 thread pitch and I think they were 16mm in length. The main reason I use the NP3 is for the friction coefficient reduction that it provides over anodizing and phosphate finishes. With the parts plated, everything operates smoother. You can hear the difference in the action. The way the spring sound inside the receiver extension and how the bolt carrier rides inside the receiver rails. This reduction in friction is less likely to jam from dirt and debris and spring loads spend less time fighting friction. Operational range of ammunition is increased since it’ll perform better with low recoil rounds. Will it cycle handicap loads? No, not unless you put lighter springs in the action. Will it improve performance on eating value pack ammo? Absolutely. Add this plating to the trigger pack parts and you feel an instant difference. Instead of the clunky, crunchy feel of the OEM parts, everything slides past one another with only the tension of the springs rather than friction points. As our local operator proclaims, the color will get you killed when the clock tower sniper sees the glint of your matte gray finish though!

Sniper is gonna get you because of that shiny spot on your rail too! Flipping the rail around is pretty smart. I had played with that concept years ago.

Got a picture of what’s going on? Sounds like you have the neutered M1014 receiver extension on a flag edition model. Where the screw is now, can you remove the stock from the shotgun? I’m not sure what the screw butts up against. Like when you removed it, was the spring or adjustment button easy to press in? You might have to remove the button and spring to install that screw properly.

You forgot to say it’s, ‘my funeral,’ with those matte silver pieces poking out!

You done yet? Even to someone on the spectrum you should be able to tell that no one values your opinion. We have missed your daily autistic rants though.

You’d know all about that I’m sure. It’s obviously been plated in NP3.

I know, it only has 15,000 rounds thru it.