StrangerDanger

It's a Wilton 63199#1745 Tradesman Vise. US production model.

Those gouges in the bottom of the A&S frame appear to align with where the trigger broke in half. So my guess is that is where those came from. Sheering that disconnector pin is insane. It's impossible to reassemle the trigger pack if that pin is slightly out of the trigger. The trigger won't seat into the trigger frame if it is poking out one side. The amount of energy required to sheer that pin and to break that trigger like that would have to be immense. Even a weak trigger should not have allowed the disconnector to be sheered off like that. I'd double check your new barrel to eye ball those gas ports to make sure they look similar to your 18.5" barrel. I'd feel out the action by racking the bolt to see if you have the proper amount of tension from the main spring. Look over the bolt carrier real well to make sure everything is moving properly. A failure of the trigger is one thing, but a secondary sheering event at the disconnector pin seems like it was being hit way too hard. The rounds fired, did they feel odd at all?

I'm starting to think the polymer trigger frames are to blame for a lot of the FFT fitting issues. I have ClackClackBAM's trigger pack here. The hammer hangs up on the disconnector. So I swapped his FFT kit for a brand new set I got in today. Same exact issue. I dropped both kits in to an A&S Engineering frame and it worked just fine. I tried the FFT in a spare polymer frame I had in the safe. More disconnector hang ups and tight fit around the hammer.

I never even noticed the change. All my older ones were sewn in the back. Just checked a few that came in recently, sure enough, only the front is sewn. It looks like they gave the users the ability to adjust a little length in or out from the back end of the sling now.

Sorry guys, been busy dealing with Obama's kids. I definitely treated myself when I bought that Wilton. I should have went for the 6" though, but I was already at the 500 range. Really like using it over my old Polack vice with busted jaws. Brownells sells large rubberized mats that are heavy duty. They are a little pricey though. Especially when you have to buy 8 of them like I did.

Wow. Never seen that before. What's the face of the hammer look like? Any damage? Pistons look ok and freely move? Any signs of damage to the face of the bolt carrier where the pistons hit? Do you still have your OEM trigger and disconnector to drop in?

The 11711 is getting pretty rare and expensive. They’re good for collectors, but probably not the best choice if you’re a shooter. Back when they were initially released, Benelli didn’t do a good job fitting some of the parts together and caused some function issues. Plus building your own lets you plate a lot more parts and your accessories than a factory one will.

The talcum powder acts as a lubricant on the polymers which minimizes the squeeze. We use it on leather holsters that sound like the old floor boards of an old west saloon. You don't need much.

They get expensive if you add padding or specialty connectors.

I'd modify the polymer housing before changing the hammer geometry. Your local smith would probably be willing to open it up more for you. I'd gladly do it for the cost of return shipping. If you want the A&S, I'd gladly swap the parts for you for the same deal. The A&S is the ideal route to go to be rid of that polymer crap.

I don’t know if shaving the hammer is a good idea. It may cause some slop in the hammer that allows it to shift side to side on the trigger bushing.

Be aware that there are newly produced M1014’s that have the flag stamp on the receiver. They will not have the serial markings of 1-2500. The original M1014 has the 2 port barrels. It won’t have a removable choke and there are some design differences where the barrel seats against the receiver and inside the receiver where the barrel extension seats near the top of the receiver. Since the barrel doesn’t have that larger seating face, the handguards are slightly different than the newer production models. The original M1014 has a cast aluminum trigger frame where as the newer production models are polymer. Changes in the finish of parts will be noted. Such as the ARGO plugs may appear different. Anodizing has varied over the years. The M1014 will come with a neutered receiver extension that will not permit the collapsible stock to collapse. The older collapsible stocks use Phillips screws on the cheek riser instead of the newer allen head design.

Sprinkle some talcum powder on the forearm and brush the dust in where the halves join together and at fore and aft of the forearms where they make contact with the barrel and receiver. Also try to seat the forearm as far into the barrel hangers as possible, then seat it into the receiver hanger as you tighten the magazine cap.

Looks like you’re hung up on the disconnector when the shotgun cycles. I have had to fit a few oem trigger frames where you mentioned before as well. I think we had another user report issues with the polymer trigger frame a few months back. We ended up fixing it by installing an A&S trigger frame.

Sometimes the screws need a whack with a hammer to get them thru the slot. If it’s still too tight, you might have to resort to opening the slots up slightly to allow the screws to pass thru.

You’re right. The 16mm makes more sense. I think I used the 8’s when the Noveske adapter plate is in play.

There should be philips screws inside those holes. Apply some lube to the screw driver and it will press in to the hole. Push firmly as you unscrew the screw.

You should be able to apply a little lube to a philips screw driver, press it in to the holes firmly and unscrew the screw.

I’ll see what I can do when I’m at home in a few days. Getting them over to Imgur would resolve it.

You should be fine. The early 11703's didn't last long. They created the 11707 shortly afterwards. If you call, they will be able to give you an estimated date based off of the serial number. I've never seen a chart for Benelli online.

Yes it does. I use a transfer punch to tap it out due to its length. Most punches aren't long enough.

Correct, even the washers. Everything was sent except the spring, buttpad, cheek pad and rubber grip. The longer screws M4 .7 thread pitch x 8mm for the Limbsaver 10403 were sent. I even knocked out the screws from the OEM buttpad. The IWC QD Mount which isn’t shown was also done.

The limited edition M1014’s all have the neutered receiver extension. The only other model to have the neutered extension was the first release of the 11703. This model was the one that came with the 4 port barrels that everyone hated. My burnt bronze started out as this. Benelli released a 11703 model later on which came with the field stock. These ones had the correct 3 position extensions. I want to say that occurred around 2014.

I think that’s the buy it now price. Final bid appears to have been ‘only’ $4469.00. I wonder what one of my NP3 builds would go for on there or if the price is being exaggerated by the original limited release of these?