StrangerDanger

This is my go to for night time bumps. I’ve shaved grams of weight off at a time here and there to make it handy. It’s cut and pinned right at 16”. Lithium aluminum receiver set. Magnesium KMR rail. Titanium barrel nut. Noveske skinny barrel. Inconel gas tube. JP Enterprises Los mass bolt carrier. B. E. Meyers flash suppressor. It’s right at the high five pound range. A suppressor would be great, but things start getting long fast with them. or you end up with a SBR and have to locate rounds that’ll be effective at slower velocities achieved.

Yes, Coating Technologies LLC won’t really with the little guy directly. I was rolling a 1000 parts at a time and they blew me off too. CTL is the same outfit that Robar used for their plating. So we’re stuck with using a third party like Wright Armory.

The RMR won’t likely be plated. No one takes them apart that I know of. You’d be hard pressed to find anyone willing to Cerakote one due to the taping involved. For a while Optics Planet was selling RMR’s that were nickel boron plated. They were gen 1 models if I recall.

There is definitely an issue with the polymer trigger frames and the FFT trigger kit. Same kit will drop right in on a OEM aluminum frame or the A&S Engineering frame. If you’re going the FFT route and have a polymer frame, expect to buy the A&S frame too.

My wife loves my ear pros next to the bed stuck over her pink salt lamps. They’re the electronic kind that amplify low sounds and muffle gunfire. The goal being not to eliminate my hearing sense with a bump in the night situation. She has a set on her lamp too. She’s proficient with her Glock 19, but not so much with the AR or Benelli.

Don’t attempt to move the body. It isn’t necessary. You don’t need to be inside to have justification for the use of deadly force. If you pen your statement with your lawyer, they will help you write it in such a way that it will be air tight. Preferably to the point that a grand jury will decline to even try the case. You start tampering with scene evidence, and you’ll make your situation a lot worse. Chances are there will be physical evidence present that indicate where the shooting took place. People will leak a little when hit and dribble on the ground. Casings will give them an idea of where you were when you fired. Close range distances may be identified by muzzle burn marks and the pattern of escaping debris from the barrel. The way droplets of blood land will indicate a lot of things such as the direction the person was moving when they fell. Touching the body will transfer blood and fibers on to your clothing which will have to be explained. You fire a bunch of rounds and all your neighbors will likely be looking out the window. Which neighbors of yours have cameras that might be watching the area. You start doing the scene from The New Guy dragging his bully to the middle of class so everyone can see him kick his ass, and you’re potentially opening a big fan of worms for yourself.

I wonder what my NP3+ M4 would go for on there right now!

Yep, you’re going to have to wait until Armageddon ends. Everything is bought up this year.

If a shop had a CNC and made a fixture and a program, it would be cheap. Probably 50-100 bucks. It’s a complex part since it requires machining on multiple axis points. Normally we can buy the 3 position extensions for 99-199 dollars. Then it’s just a matter of swapping them out.

I’d be hard pressed to shoot a fleeing felon due to my allergy to murky litigation. Arsonists have an open season, no bag limit policy. Aggravated felonies like that meet all the criteria for defending yourself or a third party from serious bodily injury or death. If I were stuck in a situation where looting was prevalent, I’d remain indoors and use the entry point as a funnel. Looters become attackers threatening great bodily injury or death as soon as they enter a domicile. Don’t exit the structure to confront. Anyone inside catches a round. The problem with the Benelli is capacity. If you ever fire on someone, it’ll seem it it takes forever for them to hit the floor. Motion of body moving forward and so on. You’ll perceive them as a threat still and likely send a few more rounds their way to make sure the threat is neutralized. If you’ve hunted, you’ve likely experienced this effect. It’s rare for a round to be so effective that they just drop. Even when they do hit the floor, they usually do the Curly shuffle. This movement on the floor will make them still seem like a threat. Are they out for the count or are they scrambling for their own gun to return fire? In less than ideal lighting, you won’t know for sure. Fire three rounds and you’re half way empty more or less. Reloading a shotgun is a fine motor skill that deteriorates quickly under duress. This assumes you have shells on hand to reload from while you’re in your jammies. Chances are you won’t be kitted out with armor and a chest rig. You’ll be lucky to have shoes on and your dick not hanging out. For this reason, I lean more towards using a short barreled AR15. It has better capacity and faster reloading capabilities. At my house I have extra mags stashed in various spots thru the house in case I need to fall back or need to engage from different vectors. They might not always come thru the front door concept. Self defense loads can be had that minimize over penetration. The absolute most important thing is if you’ve defended yourself or a third party, STFU when the police arrive. The police will try to get you to make statements right then and there. The police themselves have 72 hours after a shooting to make a statement thru their lawyer and union reps. Limit your details the the very basics, you were attacked by X and that you were in fear for your life. Tell them you are too shaken to say anything and that you want your legal counsel. They will threaten to take you to jail. Let them. They will try the buddy routine or the jerk cop to try to get you to make statements that paint you in to a legal corner. You want your statement and admission of events to be crafted by your lawyer. If they interrogate you, the only thing you should be saying over and over is, “I want my lawyer.” No if’s and’s or but’s; “I’m not making a statement without legal counsel.”

You’d need a good machine shop and you’d likely have to have one for them to copy the dimensions from. Or it would cost a fortune for them to reinvent the wheel for you. Then refinishing costs. I have never seen anyone attempt it.

Yes, but it isn’t an easy task. You have to heat the extension with a torch to get it to loosen up. The biggest issue is locating a receiver extension that is milled to allow the stock to collapse.

The 1500 isn’t that bad. When I compared it to my IB models, it didn’t seem like it was double the output. There is also some technique with a weapon light of any output. Only run the light as little as possible. Keep the muzzle low so you’re reflecting light off of the ground rather than straight on with walls. Movement with a weapon light is key. You should never have the light clicked on and wandering around. It should be brief stick and move output. This is where momentary light control is critical any why I dislike tape switches. The tape switches have dead spots and unreliable activation points. Even the expensive ones like TAPS aren’t great. The Surefire tailcap is ideal for momentary control.

Agreed. It’s mostly skill based. A good lodging job will allow you to load a little faster without beating up your hands, but it won’t make you a master without practice. You need the technique down. Personally I don’t try to load doubles. I palm three shells at a time from my California Competition speed loader, then push each one in. Youtube has a bunch of good videos from competition shooters showing their loading techniques.

They have held up for me and they’re supposedly potted like all the other Scout lights. You will need to modify the light to fit the Benelli though. The knurling will need to be machined off. Most users are better off going with the Duel Fuel model that requires no modifications.

Maybe make contact with A&S and see if they’d be willing to swap it out?

Not super hard. I have done a few with a Dremel with a pen attachment tool so you’re using it like a pencil. You’d mark out the spot with masking tape so you have a guide to follow. The goal then is to mill out that spot to a depth that seat the switch flush if the plastic is deep enough. The ones I did were up where your thumb rests on the forearm if you do the thumbs forward hold. You then have momentary control of the light with your support hand thumb. Grinding off that QD socket would be pretty easy. Cut off wheel to a rough shape then sanding drums to shape. Polish out as desired. Then hit the area with Alumablack. Even surface prepped rattle can black will hold up pretty well. If you have the Agency Arms rail, you might be able to attach your sling point to it. Or get one of those picatinny IWC rail sections and mount your sling point to it.

Seems like a good inexpensive option and thumb safe!

Do you need the QD socket? They could always be cut off if unneeded. Mounting to the OEM forearm is tricky with screws. You have to be careful of what’s on the inside. Milling our a recess for a tape switch is doable. Stick some Velcro with an adhesive back inside the hole to offer a flush mount for the switch.

I found the Cerakote to have a brighter hue than a bare titanium one. Neither match perfectly so I’d just stick with what you have. The only person who will notice it is you.

Looks good as is. If I was buying new I’d just go with the muted bead blast finish. The titanium can still scuff, so it’s not impervious for damage. The Cerakote attempts to match NP3 are never perfect matches themselves either.

Rubber o-rings, pistons, springs, pins, maybe assembly groups like a spare trigger pack or bolt carrier group. Brownells sells a lot of these parts, but they’re not cheap. Things like trigger packs and bolt carrier groups will send you into a seizure when you see the price. If deciding to build another trigger pack, I’d fit an aftermarket one the way you like. Then piece the oem parts you’ve removed into its own assembly.

It was a bit cheaper when I bought it. Like 479 two years ago.

That shouldn't be anything too extreme. Good call on the recoil spring. Right where it broke on the trigger is where the hammer pivots down between the disconnector and the trigger sear. The only thing I can think of is the trigger was weak for whatever reason and broke in half when the hammer was cocked by the bolt. No idea why it would sheer that disconnector pin at the same time though.

Never tried it with two removed, but mine worked with a single piston when one broke free and was rattling around inside the receiver. Didn't notice until that piece jammed the bolt carrier. I noticed it felt a little sluggish cycling. This was back when I had a 4 port 11703. 50 rounds in to the new gun, I broke the piston and had to wait for Benelli to replace it for a month. I imagine the shotgun would function with the pistons removed. The action doesn't rely on the pistons to unlock anything. Heavier loads would cycle better than lighter ones I'd guess.