StrangerDanger

1. The spring retainer is simply tension fit. Listen to caviroman about removing the barrel with the magazine tube full. 2. The OEM spring should work. If it isn't strong enough, the failure will metastasize during the last round in the magazine tube loading. That is when the spring will exert the least amount of force on the shell. Carriercomp and FFT sell a replacement spring that are nice. They're from Wolff so they're a good product. The OEM spring tends to take a set rather quickly in my experience.

Got my shipment in today. I really like the new version of this rail. It's a lot sleeker than the old picatinny rail style. The new mounting system is really nice. I like the hidden center fasteners design. It really cleans up the look of the unit.

I've noticed the industry is moving towards dedicated mounts rather than acerage of rails. I'd go Scalarworks for sure. I've had the Carriercomp and FFT top rails in the past. They are good products, but the Scalarworks is better. It's lighter and will give you a cowitness through the iron sights. This will keep you from messing up the cheek weld. Both these rails are hard to find too. Full disclosure, I am a Scalarworks dealer, so my opinion may be biased. I just mounted two of these today for the RMR's. They are awesome. Ava Tactical packages are good stuff. I'd elect for one that uses the iwc backbone body since the Scout light bodies need modification to fit the mount.

Expect your carriercomp order to take 5-6 months. Check the fit of your FFT handguards, make sure the barrel seats all the way against the receiver with them installed. The Ava Tactical light mount is a good choice. As is the IWC mount. The Surefire KE2-A is the lamp head alone, that'll give you 500 lumens of output. You'll want an IWC backbone light body, the two cell m600 version. You'll need a modified tailcap or one of the aftermarket solutions from McClickie. Look in to Scalarworks for a T2 optic mount.

I don't send them to find out! Even things like the breech latch were marked. They wrap everything in Saran Wrap which is a real pain to get open. Took about two hours to get them all out and try to sort the various parts out. Most of the parts are easy to know what are, but there are always an inch where you're wondering what the **** it is for a while. Or comparing to known parts in their bags. Tiny pins dont get sent. They won't do them. Like the disconnector pin is rejected.

I would have thought so too. It takes a good 6-8 hours to properly reassemble a Benelli M4. Spreading out the pins, springs and parts and reassembling them properly is no easy task. They waste a lot of time marking the parts with a serial number for warranty purposes. It must have taken them hours to etch those tiny parts. Theyre also more more apt to losing parts when they're disassembled. I noted three lost parts in this go around. One of the lock washers under the rear sight housing, a Dave's Metal Works oversized safety and one piece of a Norgon ambidextrous magazine release.

I takes forever. This batch of parts was at Robar for almost 5 months. They're not fans of boxes with a thousand small parts in it. Another thing i did was opened up the loading port prior to refinishing. It has a lot more room to get my grubby sausage fingers in to the loading port.

Finally got around to building myself an H2O Extreme in NP3+. Out of a black M4 that I had beaten up pretty badly dragging around on hikes here in the Mohave. It's not completely done yet. Im waiting for a Limbsaver to be delivered and she'll be fireable. I need to send out a new Dmw oversized safety,Ava Tactical mount and Scalarworks rail to have coated. I might send the muted finished Carriercomp tune in for coating to get the color matched better. It needs a Trijicon RMR in Nickel Boron. This one has a Geissele hammer, FFT trigger/disconnector, TTI elevator, GG&G bolt release and meprolight night sights. I had sent an older model Scalarworks rail in, but elected not to mount it with the new units coming in soon. I'll coat the light body and tailcap while I'm at it. The head will be left black or just Cerakoted since they don't come apart easily. This unit was stripped fully and sent in parts to Robar. I even took the Argo plugs apart and coated all of the internals. The front handguard retainers were taken out for coating along with the rear sight housing fully stripped and coated. The only parts left uncoated were the sight apertures.

I don't have a spare tube, but you probably know the Cerakote you seek is AI (Alpha India) Dark Earth. Getting the hue and gloss correct can be a challenge. There are color variations between the Benelli's that doesn't help.

The sooner you order the better. They changed how they bill, so you won't be charged until it's ready. They're by far the best and only option for your dark earth model. I've bought a lot of their magazine tubes over the years. Probably close to 50 now. Never had any issues other than having to wait.

Appreciate the shout out. Are you limited to slugs at that range? Next time you go, try pushing forward with your support arm and pulling tocthe rear with your strong hand. Make sure the butt is seated in the pocket between your chest and shoulder and aggressively lean in to it with your stance. Nothing overly exaggerated, just so that the weapon has nowhere to go but in to you. With a little practice, you'll find the follow up shots to be a little faster and a lot less muzzle rise.

I use mostly 45 degree FIRE selectors on the AR platforms. I don't are for the ambidextrous part of this unit. I'd be happy with just a strong hand thumb side lever. My hope would be the lever having the same tactile feel of the AR15 selectors to provide a cross platform standard of use.

If it were a 45-50 degree selector, I'd be in.

I was doing some research on the trigger pack shown by unobtainium. I spoke with Todd at FFT. He stated that after received that particular trigger set back, he placed it in one of his M4's, and it currently has had around 25,000 rounds put through it without any further trigger related issues. Something was certainly out of place on that trigger pack. What, I could not say. Correction: not all 25k rounds were on that trigger pack. The firearm had 25k, later in the curve, the kit was added. I got my numbers confused.

Wow. No going back from there! I hope it's giving you the sight picture you wanted.

The main issue is if you use thread locker on the attachment screw, you're going to have a bad time. The threaded hole in the base of the receiver extension is a screwed in plug that is retained by a snap ring. Tightening the screw is no big deal since the threaded plug bottoms out inside the extension and won't go anywhere. Unscrewing it can cause trouble. You might end up in a situation where you have unscrewed the threaded plug while the screw is still in place. You then have a situation where you'll have to cut the stock open to recover the parts. Then if you don't use threadlocker, you run the chance of it coming undone on you. I find its a step backwards in design for the Benelli. You go from a toolless disassembly design back to a crappy Mossberg style screw the stock in place design. I'm sure this design was cheaper to make, but I would have gladly paid more for one with the same installation technique. The other aftermarket stocks like the ATI rusty coat hanger abortion should be avoided at all costs. The Promag lives up to the companies reputation - crap. I advise buyers to look at the OEM offerings to see what fits them best. The field stock is good for some. The collapsible is always nice. The cheek weld isn't ideal in the middle position using iron sights. For me, it's an optic only position. The pricing of the OEM collapsible stocks have stabilized nicely. I pick up lightly used ones here on the forum frequently for 200 bucks. I dump the factory buttpad in favor for a Limbsaver 10111 model and a modified Noveske adapter plate.

Pretty much this.

Yep. DSG had 13 of them and I considered cleaning them out. Wish I had now.

I'm surprised you guys have had so many problems with this bolt handle. The units can certainly be pressed past the detent, which may be causing the finish sear issues.

Geissele had several design changes in each run of their hammers. They changed the U.S. stamping style a few times. Plus they ground the seat contact points after finishing. I guess you could argue they have more control over the grinder vs. a surface finish. I'm not sure at what point in the process they apply the heat treatment either. Looking at rheir other trigger components, the more recent production units are left unfinished on their sear contact points also. All parts can have problems and cause issues. I periodically get customers who send me their trigger packs because the OEM components aren't functioning. I've found several OEM triggers that were grossly out of spec and would cause issues where the hammer would not release from the disconnector. Problems happen across the board and get missed during inspection. Some problems only metastasize after initial use. The sear contact points may look complex and perhaps operate on some form of magic, but in reality it is simply a spring loaded hook that the trigger sear pushes past on the disconnector. Then either engages the disconnector of the trigger is held to the rear, or the trigger sear. There is no real fitting to be done here. No file should ever touch these sears. While the results may feel great initially, the file would likely remove the hardened surface, and the softer unhardened materials will quickly deform and cause malfunction or a safety concern. Remember all the trigger job guru's for the AR15 platform that left users with a butter soft set of sears?

Thanks for the video. Did you try swapping back in OEM parts to determine which of the three components were out of spec? Yes I can for the hammers. I took pictures of the wear patterns present and showed the signs of deformation on the hammer face from impacting the bolt carrier/firing pin. FFT and OEM hammers deform about the same. Where as the surface hardness of the Geissele resists deformation. There is only surface brunishing visible. All units continued to function fine. The FFT and the Geissele unit had 2000 rounds each on them. The used OEM unit had about 8000 at that point. The only thing I noted about the Geissele hammer is you cannot cock the hammer when the trigger pack is on safe. I can't see a situation that you'd find yourself in where you need to do this (hammer down with the safety engaged?), but it is something I noted that doesn't occur with the OEM or FFT unit.

I would have liked to have seen that to isolate which part was out of spec. Of the hammers out there, the Geissele is without a doubt the best. Better than OEM in surface treatment hardness.

I've installed about 50 sets of FFT trigger kits mixed and matched with OEM and Geissele, and not one of them has given me any trouble. No one has complained to me about the longevity or durability either. Just a small data point.

Odd. Got a picture of the end of the charging handle where the detent engages? I've used these a bunch and haven't had any problems. I'd let TTI know and I bet they'd replace it.

A lot less thigh gap on the mount with the IWC light body.