StrangerDanger

Did some fun new stuff lately mostly for cosmetics. I had the outside visible area of the shell elevator painted in carbon black Cerakote. This particular unit had been coated in NP3+, so we blasted off the exterior only and painted it. Did the same thing to a FFT NP3 coated trigger for the visible area only.

Finally got my personal mount painted burnt bronze to match my M4. I paired an IWC backbone with a Surefire KE2-A 500 lumen output head together. I then machined a Scout light tailcap to remove the shroud. The cap was the. Painted with the rest.

Any chance you can take pictures of the broken unit? It's not something that could be epoxied back together?

I tried to like the field stock as well. It did nothing for me. I usually elect for the collapsible stock to get the shorter LOp and the slightly higher sight picture when using optics. If I were using strictly the iron sights, this would do nothing for me and actually provide a poor cheek weld.

Numrich Arms gets them in occasionally. When I buy them, I call and ask to make sure they're aluminum and not polymer. Looks like s great build. I struggled with many of the same issues until aftermarket solutions were developed. What stock are you using?

Marcy is doing much better as of late with periodic checkups. If you would like a mass produced CNC lathe titanium version that is available most of the time, FFT makes one. The machining isn't as nice nor is the color match, but it'll get the job done. The carriercomp units are hand made on a old school lathe. Finding qualified staff to operate an old school manual lathe is becoming more difficult at the price point that we're accustom to. Plus you run in to all the trouble of hiring employee's thanks to Government. I imagine their shot is filled with long spiraling titanium chips from profiling the titanium tube stock down to what we're accustom to seeing. The threading on the titanium tubes is nothing short of perfection. Carriercomp has stated they want to get back in to production of other accessories; but at most can see they're operating at full capacity and still have backorders of 6-7 months.

Interesting methods. I guess I've never had that much trouble with these. I had one particular 11715 that took a really long time to release, maybe 25 minutes. Compared to getting the receiver extensions off, these are a cakewalk. Never had any discoloration or damage to the finish including those old ugly three tone tan M4's. Usually I use the Wagner heatgun because I don't want to waste MAPP gas.

Sounds like a lot of work! How about getting a 5 gallon bucket full of water, and fill it so only the magazine tube is sticking out of the water. Heat the steel tube with the torch. Then pull it out twist it off? I only twist them off with hand strength alone. No strap wrenches or anything like that. Are you reading somewhere that states that 300-400 degree temps can cause harm to the anodizing?

You definitely could. The MAPP torch has a pretty small flame head so you could direct the heat where you want it with minimal residual heat saturating the receiver. I have a laser temp gun and even with the heatgun, the area around the magazine tube usually stays below 300 degrees.

http://forum.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide

Not really. Even if it's a Cerakote painted model, you can focus the heat on the current steel tube. I've never had one peel and I've done around 50 of them. I did one a long time ago in my lap without a vice for a coworker. Just heated the area and put the stock between my feet and unscrewed it a little at a time. A padded vice is nice to have, but it certainly isn't mandatory. I did a current production M4 on Friday, and it took about 10-15 minutes with the heatgun. Wire brush out the remnant thread locker while it's still hot. Wipe out the threads with a rag and acetone if you're getting fancy. I coat the threads in locktite primer, then use red 271 locktite. Some don't even use threadlocker so they can easily remove the tube for easier cleaning in the front end of the receiver. The magazine tube can't come undone by itself since the magazine cap locks it in place. Transfer the rear handguard retainer to the new tube, drop in the new follower, stuff the new spring in, reinstall the spring retainer and you're done. I'll link to you the guide I put together for the trigger pack. It looks intimidating, but they are actually really easy to get apart and back together.

Easy stuff then. If you get a heat gun and a set of snap ring pliers, you'd be set. Or if you're ever up in the Kingman area, we can do it for free.

Any regular gunsmith should be able to handle most M4 modifications. What modifications do you have in mind? We have a lot of good tutorials on doing most of them yourself.

I expect to see like 20 of them for sale now. I noted that the auction relisted. Looks like they have a pile of them since they already gave positive points for the transaction. The buyers probably eating a crayon right now. What color, is anyone's guess.

Great info all around. Our little shop will be proudly carrying Scalarworks products. Not just the Benelli M4 mounts, but the range of optical mounting solutions. They're several steps ahead of LaRue/ADM/Bobro in my experience.

WTF? That's some weapons' grade stupid right there.

Of the DMW/TTI/XRAIL I've tested, I personally like the DMW the best. The TTI is similiar to the newest generation of DMW buttons. Obviously, personal preference and all. I like the safety to bump into my trigger finger only when the safety is engaged. Then with a modified spring weight, you can disengage the safety easily with your trigger finger without breaking your firing grip.

I put one of those XRAIL safety's in a clients M4 about six months ago. I personally felt it was too big.

This is correct. The roll pins on Benelli bolt heads are almost a blind pin hole, but you can work a small punch pin through the captured side and tap the pin out. Clean the bolt head thouroughly, and you should be able to see about half of the roll pin protruding from the bolt. Often times the punch is sacrificed since it will cause the pin to bend and flex as it follows the hole. Holding the bolt head in place is a chore in itself while trying to tap on a cylinder shaped item. One of those blue bench blocks from Brownells helps significantly, but you'll always feel like you need a third or fourth hand.

I would agree since it's a lot less permenant. Not my choice though.

You should get to open one for Christmas Eve, right?

All - I have a user/client looking to remove the iron sights completely from the M4 and run strictly an optic. The rear is easy enough, but my question is about the front sight tower. Is this tower brazed or laser welded on? Anyone remove it for building SBS barrels from an 18.5"? Will it come off with high heat? The unit will be refinished afterwards.

Thanks. Hope you all have a great one. Duty calls and we're pulling 12 hour shifts Friday, Saturday and Sunday this week. So we'll be celebrating on Monday. Anyone who has sent firearms to me for work had her doing some of the work. From coating threads with primer to starting screws. She's also starting to learn lathe operations. We had to get a dog that likes an outdoor lifestyle.

Parts arrived from the OP, perfect items as described. Thanks a lot!