StrangerDanger

If I had to guess, your hand guards are not seated correctly. A photo of the area would confirm.

They seem to be machined well. Not sure why they skipped the drainage holes though. I wouldn’t go out of my way to put a 6 position in over an oem 3 position. I’m not that sensitive to stock length. I usually just throw it fully open.

I dug out a customer's Regal Metal Works 6 position extension to compare to two M1014's I have laying around. The overall length is definitely different. The threads on the RMW do not extend down the extension as far as the OEM. No idea why they would deviate from the OEM pattern they copied. So you might want to screw in the RMW about 6 full rotations, and see if that corrects your pistol grip issue. OEM on the left. RMW on the right. Both tubes are set on an even flat surface. My two OEM M1014's are identical height.

I find 8.5 full turns from when the threads start to engage to be the appropriate depth. Then do your timing adjustment from there with the collapsible stock. Sounds like you're about two rotations past where you want to be.

Mitch the owner of Mesa Tactical is a good guy. I've met him at SHOT Show once or twice. They've had some issues with products over the years, but generally have taken care of people who need it.

Oh I agree it does look nice. You won’t see any trigger pull difference based on the trigger housing being plated. The trigger doesn’t touch the housing at all. The hammer pivots on the trigger bushing, and the trigger pivots on the trigger pins that don’t really move or rotate in the housing itself. It will be easier to clean though. Where you might see some smoothing is how the shell elevator pivots. The hammer spring cap is so sloppy of a part, I don’t think you’d notice any reduction in friction when it’s triggered to drop. The safety might improve a little since the detent fits prettt tight in the channel. I’m going to guess FFT sends the parts to Coating Technologies directly, so they probably get much better rates than the end user with Wright.

Quite a mark up. As much as you’d think the trigger group would benefit from being plated, the performance gain is negligible.

Google search is easier to find it than the site search.

Same. All to save a few bucks in its construction. Overall its still better than the Surefire M80, Strike Industries Shrike, Agency Arms rail and the SideArmor rail. I haven't handled the Briley rail in person yet.

If you can't find a Noveske one, FFT has started making something similar. Granted, the swap of the plate is not for the faint of heart. I have a tutorial on this site outlining the process to get the damn thing out and back in.

So my offset MLOK light mount came in today. As anticipated, the rail needed to be modified to permit the offset mount enough clearance to place the light in my desired location, which is around 1:30. This pulls the light in to the space between the magazine tube and the barrel. So I cut up the rail to remove the interfering part. Cutting up the rail is fine with me, since its a path finding review/test. The assembly/disassembly of this rail is absolutely terrible. I'd be ashamed to put my name on it if I had made it. You want to like the equipment since it offers you a way to mount the light that eliminates a bunch of problems, but the install is absolute shit. Like seriously, the two plastic parts you have to hold into position to fit against the receiver are such a pain in the ass. If they were set on this kind of design, they would have been better off replacing the rear handguard hanger with one that sandwiches between the magazine tube and the receiver. Then you wouldn't have to fight with the two parts trying to fall out on you constantly. It would have been an all aluminum construction and made the lockup much better. Having to remove your MLOK devices to remove the rail is absolutely stupid. Reversing the HotButton so you press the button rearward was a good choice. I feel like I have a lot more control over the momentary button than I have ever had in the past with Z68 tailcaps or any pressure pads. The way the body of the switch sits protects it pretty welll from accidental light discharges. The body acts as a hand stop that tells me where the button will be. Given the pain in the ass the rail is with mounted mlok devices, I'm running it without rail covers for the time being. I might just throw some Magpul ones on since they're easier to remove. Routing the wire thru the inside of the rail has been a good choice. Very little wire is exposed to hang up on gear. I took it for about a mile hike today in the woods with my plate carrier on, and I didn't have any issues with it hanging up. I may cut a notch in the rail to allow the wire to pass directly from the rubber boot into the interior. The rail cuts easy enough. It only took me about two minutes to trim the rail for the light mount.

This direction for the HotButton seems to feel the best, and least likely to jam your thumb during recoil.

7" lbs is way too light. Seems like they're erring on the side of caution to prevent damage. Have you reached out to Scalarworks about the fitment? That doesn't seem right at all. You should easily be able to tighten the screw to the point that the rail won't slide over it.

You can adjust the tension of the Scalarworks top rail by how tight you install the two locating screws. What I usually do is I install one screw, then fit the rail to feel for tightness. I keep tightening that screw until I cannot slide the rail into place. Then I'll back it off a little at a time until I can get it to slide into place. I then repeat the process for the second screw. I usually then rub a thin coat of blue Loctite on the base of the rail so that it glues itself to the receiver in time. Then install the two screws that hold the rail in place. I find the torque range of 12-14 inch pounds to be a bit light and may cause your screws to back out on you during recoil. These days I tighten them by feel. Once the screw meets resistance, I turn it about a quarter turn more. In yesterday's FFT youtube video, Todd was going on about having to check these top rail screws constantly. You don't want to have to deal with that. I've never had a screw back out and I've never stripped a screw there. Blue 243 Loctite is your friend on the top rail screws. He reported having to check the screws with a driver constantly. To avoid this problem, just mark your screws with a silver Sharpie or whatever color works for you. You put a thin line across the head of the screw and onto the rail. This will act as a clock or timing line. If the screw moves at all, this line will then be out of alignment.

No change in my order either. Did you try putting your phone number in this part of the website that tracks orders? I have repair orders going back to 2019 when I first started using them for plating. https://wrightarmory.com/repair-update/

The HotButton is pretty nice. I’m considering turning it around so the button is forward facing. Then my thumb won’t be reaching to meet the button but pulling back on it instead. So I might slide it rearward a MLOK or two. This may reduce the thumb jamming issue during live fire.

Both would likely fit, I'm just not sure how a light would work out if you installed it on the IWC mount. The tailcap may interfere with the Truckee rail. If you're not opposed to modifying the rail, you could probably make it work if there was some interference.

I got some more parts in finally. Optics Planet had sent my Unity Tactical Hot Button via pony express and took a few weeks to come. I found the rail is a nightmare to remove from the gun. You must remove all of your MLOK items before you can slide the rail off of the barrel. So yeah, that's F'ing retarded. Just what you want to do when cleaning your gas system. I don't know what the deal is with these companies making accessories. People would spend big money on these items if they weren't so poorly designed. This rail is also extremely sharp, I paid a blood sacrifice trying to get it off the barrel and split open a finger pretty good. Wire looming is pretty easy if you're willing to modify the rail some. I bored two half inch holes thru the center of the MLOK's near the front end so that I could fish the wire plug thru the rail. This lets me coil up excess wire inside the rail. This wouldn't work on an AR style system since it gets too hot in there, but it should be fine on a Benelli. WIth the nice design of the Unity Tactical Hot Button, you can route your cable thru the bottom of the switch and directly into the rail. This leaves only about an inch of wire exposed leading from the rail to the back of the weapon light. I'm waiting on a different MLOK mount that won't push the light out so far. The Hot Button is my favorite of the tape switch type setups by far since it feels nothing like a tape switch. It's basically an angled momentary/constant on button that you can locate wherever the wire can reach.

Best thing to try is to return to stock configuration and see if the failure is still present. If that is where the shell is ejecting to from inside the magazine tube, it appears to be a weak ejection issue. See if it is more commonly encountered when the magazine tube is full vs. ejecting a single round onto the shell lifter. Sometimes this issue is also caused by a weak magazine spring.

NP3 is definitely better than Cerakote or phosphate. Definitely use grease. Carbon can work its way into the threads and make it a pain to remove the choke.

The OEM choke on the left was cleaned up as best as I could with wire brushes to remove the rust. You can see the discoloration near the top of the choke and there was a lot of rust inside the threads. This rust was also inside the threads of the barrel. The choke on the right is an OEM choke that I had sent out for NP3 plating thru Robar years ago.

If you did it once a year or if the barrel were ever submerged. Or maybe if you spent some time in a high humidity area it would be worth regreasing. It's kind of like putting oil on steel parts to prevent corrosion. The OEM ones are parkerized if I recall, so there is only so much that finish than do before rust takes hold.

I haven't tried them. Even the OEM ones will resist corrosion as long as you take care of them and grease the threads. I've found most don't do this including myself apparently and found out the hard way that they'll rust up. In the past I've had several of them NP3 plated which now seems like a really good idea. Unfortunately that isn't really an option at the current time. I'd get the grease kit Briley sells along with the wrench and brush. I used to have my chokes come loose after shooting frequently when I tightened them with the supplied OEM tool. With the Briley wrench, I've never had one come undone. It's all I had available at the moment in MLOK. I tried to make some of those Railscales KOS panels fit, but the profile is wrong. Most would be served well with like the Magpul MLOK panel covers. You'll definitely want something for texture though, this rail is smooth with almost zero texture. I'm going to change the light mount to an offset mount unit. Hopefully it'll clear and won't require any modification to the rail in order for it to fit. This should reduce how much the light sticks out.

I haven't seen one unfortunately. Realistically it sticks out about .875 inches.

Yep, I went with the IC. You could certainly get it cerakoted. You also cannot shoot steel shot thru it, but that was of no issue to me since I never shoot that crap.