StrangerDanger

No problem. If they back out or vanish, let me know.

Some of the tubes can be tougher to remove than others. I guess it depends how much thread locker they used. Typically you’ll see the tube rotate a few degrees and then stop. More heat is needed to get it to move a little more, then seize. Repeat this several times and eventually it’ll come free.

If that’s a Tacstar side saddle, it’s a notorious piece of shit that will definitely squeeze the receiver if tightened too much. Not tightened enough and it falls apart. Then it starts scratching up your receiver. Any aftermarket shell elevators in use? I’d take the magazine tube apart and clean it well inside. Do not apply oil inside the magazine tube at all. I’d recommend making a polishing jig for the magazine tube. I put a 12 gauge cleaning rod in my drill gun, then wrap fine steel wool around a 12 gauge chamber brush. Then go to town up and down the inside of the magazine tube for 5 minutes. Clean out the residue and admire the mirror finished magazine tube. Note the difference in sound once you reinstall the spring and follower. The magazine spring won’t be fighting the resistance inside the magazine tube as much so that it can deliver more of the spring energy to loading shells onto the elevator. This is particularly important when it is the last round or two being loaded from the magazine. The polishing can be done on steel, titanium or even the Briley carbon fiber magazine tubes.

Ah what the hell, I’ll give it a try if it’s still available.

How was the reliability? How was the loading with it installed? Any specific reason you’re selling it?

It’s solid too. I use it in conjunction with a vice. You just press the tool into the plug with the jaws and index the hole for the pin so that it drops right out as soon as you have enough tension on it. Then release the jaws and the internals slide right out. Reassembly is just as easy, you just index the pin hole horizontally instead so it doesn’t just drop right thru.

How many full rotations did you do? Usually it only takes about 4 - 5 complete rotations to remove.

It's definitely the Supernova collapsible stock and those 5 position receiver extensions. The original stock and receiver extension is a better design in my opinion. 500 each sounds like wife rounding, not actual cost. Just like when she rounds about purses and shoes.

I have this one, it’s nothing special and can be bought at Home Depot along with the cylinders. Each cylinder will last for like an hour or so of use on full blast. I use it all the time to light my pellet stove since the igniter took a shit. My daughter uses it to start the fire since she was around 11. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-BZ8250HTKC-MAP-Pro-Hose-Torch-Kit-BZ8250KC/203391035

Near the end of my guide, there are tips for removing and installing the flexible ring into the receiver extension. Often times those flexible rings from Benelli are sold out and can't be found. If you paid 22 dollars for one, you'd feel like you got raped once you receive it and realize its realistically a 20 cent part, and I'm being generous.

Top quality tool. Nothing else comes close to this tool for easy removal of those plugs. It’s really good for if you encounter one that is stuck. Those notched on the plug are really easy to strip with the wrong tool.

I like the design changes with the position notches. The deeper install notch seems to work well.

Agreed with Doge. Notches farther down the tube offer little value for the end user. Few would use the positions since it changes your cheek weld significantly for the sights. Kind of like how the fully collapsed position is pretty much only usable for storage. If you placed your additional notches closer to the end, say .75" apart, it would give the end user more fine adjustment for getting a proper length of pull for their body types, or adapt for vests/armor. Glad to see you making these tubes for the market! I've installed hundreds of the OEM ones over the past decade. Looking forward to seeing how yours stack up to them.

Does the roughness show up in pictures? Does it shoot correctly?

Usually you don’t need a gunsmith. They install pretty easy usually. Usually they’re drop in parts. The FFT kit does reduced the trigger pull a bit. I’m not a fan of lightened springs. Particularly the hammer spring. You can have a lot of light primer strike issues or flat out not work. The spring kit that FFT sells seems to be fine. They aren’t supposed to be a lightened spring. They’re an oem weight Wolff produced replacement.

Few things scarier than a naked man running at you yelling, “penis, Penis, PENIS.”

I noted yesterday that Limbsaver has started making 10403 pads with plastic instead of the nylon blended polymer they used before. This makes drilling into them a real pain in the ass since the plastic melts rather than clears away from the hole being drilled. You'll have a lot more clean up with a razor knife trying to remove all of the melted polymer.

Unfortunately we all won't likely have the time to LARP it out and spend ten minutes kitting out to engage a problem like a Schwarzenegger assembly montage. You'll be lucky to even have your shoes on when something goes down at night. Having a bandolier draped over the shotgun isn't a bad idea. I have another bandolier that I leave in a fall back location. Side saddle arrangements are a good system for having shells with the shotgun. The velcro systems are the best.

https://www.benelliparts.net/store/p30/PRE_ORDER_Benelli_M4_922r_Trigger_undiscouraged_Kit.html I've installed about ten sets of them over the years. No issues. Some required minor fitting on the hammer to disconnector sear. The trigger pull was similar to OEM.

Nice work! I think those Noveske plates used to go for around 25 dollars.

Marks on the receiver probably won't cause any issues, just look ugly. That carrier looks like it was dropped on something hard. The high spots could be filed down to prevent more wear, but the correct coarse of action would be to make Benelli replace it.

Steel is fine thru the oem choke. Consult the choke manufacturer if going aftermarket. Example, a few of my titanium chokes aren’t rated for steel shot.

I do this a lot. I also run a zip tie thru the box thru the part whenever possible. So even if the box is ripped open, it should stay with the packaging material.

I wish. I offered to buy batches of like 500 at a time and they declined. ?

Good guy to work with. I did the loading port work on this M4 for him.