StrangerDanger

Just conduct a safety test on the trigger pack after reassembling to confirm that its safe. Keep it in mind during the first live fire too.

I'll text him and see if I can get any information.

Did more tests last night with 100% batteries. Performance sucks. About the only thing it would be good for is you need it inside standard size rooms. So it's pretty much useless. I'll be returning it. Maybe I'm spoiled using the MAWL and having the ability to put a beam out to 500 yards if needed and the ability to push thru photonic barriers with ease. Plus having its three output levels helps a lot for close in work, or target detection.

I agree, the Cerakote version isn't worth the cost. If you're getting cerakote, get one that is a color that works for camo in your area of use. Unfortunately there aren't any options for getting NP3 done on existing parts at this time. Fortunately, the Benelli in black should last several lifetimes without any exotic work being done.

I think you mean you cannot push the unlock button and turn the tail stock of the collapsible stock assembly? Chances are you have a model that that has an extra screw installed beneath the cheek riser of the collapsible stock that is preventing the button from being pressed in. You'll need to remove the three screws from the cheek riser, then access the screw that is beneath it and remove it. I've heard that loctite has been used on this screw to make it a pain in the ass. Heat may be required to get it to come out without damage. Once the tail stock has been removed, you can then unscrew the pistol grip.

Hmm, even this seems excessively low. I also saw the lamp head flare up inside next to the LED in the visible spectrum during the daytime when pushing the activation button for a few seconds. Then it went out and hasn't repeated it. If that's the best it can do, it'll be going back. I'll try it again once it gets dark before the moon comes up.

The price point is alright for the titanium cap. Tested out the Modlite IR940 lamp head last night. It performed surprisingly poor. So poor that I've emailed Modlite to see if the level of performance is typical or if something is wrong with the unit. It would barely illuminate a target at 40 feet.

We're not all cool enough to have the 14" entry model! With the 18.5, it just sucks. I think my IR head shows up tomorrow to test it with. I have my NP3 plated model with the IWC mount still, so it'll be a quick transfer between the two.

I wonder if there would be a way to integrate a light mounting solution into the magazine cap so that the user could mount a light with a muzzle flush weapon light? The main goal being to mount a weapon light flush with the muzzle.

I hate the attachment system of this rail, but it does offer me the perfect light mounting solution for my use. I can’t have barrel shadowing since my IR lamp head will blow back on me and interfere with my monocular. So pushing the light flush with the muzzle is necessary. I’ve hated every tape switch in existence after owning pretty much all of them from the various Surefire switches to the nicer Taps switches and Modlite buttons. They all perform poorly and don’t really have a constant on setting which you do need at times. Plus the wires are snag hazards and easily damaged. So I finally got my hands on a Unity Tactical HotButton. This thing is amazing! It has the tactile feel of a Z68 tailcap that you can orientate how you like. You can direct the wires downward thru the rail if heat isn’t an issue to protect the wire. For me, pulling the activation button to the rear is far more comfortable than reaching forward to hit the button. You’re a lot less likely to injure your thumb during heavy recoil of 12 gauge pulling to the rear than reaching forward. I broke nails, sprained my thumb and generally had a bad time reaching forward for the switch. Once your thumb is wanged good, you find your ability to reload a shotgun to suffer greatly or force you to reload with your strong hand instead. I was always trained to mainly use momentary light output and as little as possible. Basically illuminate, assess, light out, move if possible or fire. Just constant stick and move. If you’re just shooting pigs, this doesn’t matter as much as on a two way range. Light output is less important if you’re using IR, unless you believe your threat may possess night vision equipment. The Truckee rail is way too smooth. I’ll add some textured rail covers that are easy to remove like the Magpul or BCM panels. Due to the dumb design of the Truckee, you must remove all mounted items from the MLOK in order to pull it off of the barrel assembly in order to access the Argo system. Really retarded design. Fortunately you can still pull the barrel out of the receiver to access the bolt carrier. The longer handguard works for me since I have longer arms than most. The oem forend always felt a little short for me. Angled front sling mounts make slinging the Benelli more comfortable. The sling binds less and it helps keep the shotgun from wanting to roll away from your body when you’re hands off. Less than an inch of exposed wire. I may notch the rail to reduce the exposed part even more. Ideal light position on the Arisaka offset MLOK mount. This pulls the light head into the space between the barrel and the magazine tube reducing how much the light sticks out from the firearm. hotButton wire routed down inside of the rail. I drilled out one of the MLOK sockets so that the 1/2” wire plug could be passed thru the rail internally. This works fine on the Benelli, but wouldn’t work on rifles like an AR15 due to the heat. The excess wire loops along the bottom of the magazine tube to keep it away from the barrel.

I'd consider an aluminum one over titanium for weight savings. I'd also look into making have an embedded hardened steel ring around the base so the detent didn't chew it up the ratcheting teeth. The parts could be threaded together and bound together permanently.

What kind of red dot? Mount? Any other aftermarket modifications?

I would likely buy two.

I agree. The rail systems are generally retarded dog shit. You can pull the barrel assembly out without tools and access the bolt carrier. You only need tools of you want to service the Argo system. I don’t like that, but I’ll live with it until someone makes something better. On the other hand, the light placement and activation system is the best I’ve ever used. Flipping the button around so you pull towards you was the game changer, particularly on heavy recoiling platforms. The internal looming of the wire protects the wire from actual use where it’s snagging on gear or getting laid on the rocks. The HotButton is better than any switch I’ve ever used and I plan to adapt the style to my rifles as funds allow. I’ll have the IR head by mid March and I plan on going on an adventure with the Benelli in mid April out into the Mojave desert.

Nice work!

I’ve fit a bunch of those FFT forends. I use a big flat metal file and remove material from the end closest to the muzzle. It’s a lot of trial and error to fit them since you don’t want to remove too much material. I use the seat ring at the base of the barrel to determine if the forend fits or not. Once I can’t slide a piece of paper between the ring and the receiver, I know it’s good to go. Without doing this, you could end up with light primer strikes since the bolt won’t fully rotate and lock into the barrel lugs.

Have you tried the light on it yet? I’m concerned a Scout light’s Z68 tailcap would make contact with the rail.

Try to even out the gap between the side of the IWC mount. It looks like one side bolt was tightened fully. You want it to have a similar sized gap on both sides.

Wow. Never seen that on a M4. I had something similar happen on our old M121. My dad brazed it back on and it’s still chugging along 30 years later.

My batch still isn't showing up yet. Here is what I have in the process. I do all the tear down and reassembly.

Try flipping that HotButton around so the activation button faces forward. It's now my favorite light activation setup. It's a lot more comfortable to pull your thumb rearward than to reach for a button with 12 gauge recoil. You have full momentary control of the light output, and even under recoil, the worst that will happen is you'll click it to constant on. Looming the HotButton's wire thru the inside of the rail keeps the snag hazards and damage to a minimum. The only exposed wire is what comes off the back of the light and immediately goes into the rail. I haven't found a rail for the Benelli M4 that I like. The attachment systems have been extremely poorly designed. I tolerate the Mesa Tactical Truckee since it gives me the mounting position and longer handguard that I want. I need to get a hold of a Briley 13" rail to see if it is any better. I may notch the rail so that even less of the wire is exposed.

Just be aware that the 18650 light bodies won't fit in the Ava Tactical mount since the diameter is slightly larger than the 123A battery bodies.

Nice, my batch there still says they're in process. Hopefully we'll see some movement soon.

Chances are you're going to need to get a MAPP gas torch in order to get it to come free. I've encountered a few extensions that a heatgun wouldn't touch.

Benelli complicated this by reusing the 10703 model number. There have been two versions of the 10703. The newer one comes with the fixed field stock, it likely has the three position receiver extension beneath it. The older one which came after the first run of the M1014 has the neutered receiver extension and came with a fixed pistol grip stock. This model also came with the hated 4 port barrel which would destroy the bolt carrier in short order when used with standard power loads. It sounds like the model you are looking to purchase is the newer of the two, but I would still check by removing the stock to see which extension it has and by looking down the barrel and making sure only two gas ports are visible.