StrangerDanger

D zester- Is your IWC mount top half flipped backwards on purpose?

Same, that's where I got my start too. I run a MAWL and a Modlite white light on my go to AR. I would notch a set of handguards for whatever pad you want to use, then drill two small holes to run zip ties thru the plastic to secure it in place from the inside in two places. Maybe use something like this switch. https://modlite.com/collections/switches/products/modlite-modbutton-lite?variant=32291865624612 Then if you're concerned about a method of using a constant on setting, I think you could use one of those Surefire DSOO tailcaps that offers up a switch port and a momentary/constant on.

I haven't been impressed with any of the rail systems for the Benelli M4 to be honest. Their ergonomics suck, complicate disassembly and add a bunch of weight. Tape switches themselves are kind of shit, even the "good ones" like TAPS. The only ones that are tolerable are the Unity Tactical variety called the HotButton. With an SBS, the weapon light will be closer to the muzzle which will equal a lot less barrel shadowing. If you must have a tape switch, I'd look into ways of attaching it to the OEM handguards and stick with the IWC mount. That mount is hard to beat, hell, it's probably the cheapest option out there too.

I’m a fan of the Modlite 18650 body with a Modlite PLHv2 lamp head. I machined the shroud off of a Surefire Z68 tailcap so it doesn’t jam my thumb as much under recoil.

Any gap between the barrel and the receiver?

Agreed. Media blasting is about the only thing that will work for the Cerakote. It needs the abrasive to etch the material for the Cerakote to adhere to anyway. The more you can disassemble the gun, the better the refinishing will come out.

Glad to help!

The SRO is definitely a lot more forgiving on the cheek weld than the RMR is.

Can you post pictures of the removed trigger pack?

I'm not sure which model you need specifically for your M1, but Limbsaver has a chart where you can see the physical sizes of the pads and print out templates. You can then see which one will fit your screw pattern. Note the listing has both the Airtech and the classic pads. If you can get the Airtech, go that route. They perform a little better than the classics. Some of the pads have plastic risers on the base of the pad that may interfere with the fit, if those are present, they are pretty easy to remove with a belt sander or even a hand file. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1999/2905/files/Recoil_Pad_Template_Guide_-_01_2018_-_Web.pdf?4988935229279426438

Doge would know all about this model! I’d listen to him.

No experience with those, but maybe the receiver extension is hitting the buttpad? Many Benellis have a buttpad that had a recess in it to permit the receiver extension to enter the buttpad. You could probably remove the buttpad and see if that permits it to fully collapse.

Battle Steel rail* *Made from 6061 aluminum.

I would not expect to see any more of these made. IWC likely killed this with their cheaper, simpler design that is more forward compatible with future lighting options like the 18650 bodies. Hell, it’s probably lighter too. I say this as someone who had a role in designing the Ava mount. Not from an engineering and cad standpoint, but from a concept designer. Joel did all the hard cad parts. While I like the looks of the Ava mount better, functionally they both perform the same function.

No. All you really need is a properly sized punch. Most punches are a bit short and won’t knock the pin all the way out. I found one of those Glock disassembly tools works well to tap it the rest of the way out.

At least now I know I have a tool drawer with a 120 grand worth of L shaped Allen keys to retire on!

Those are nice receiver extensions. That’s basically what I end up assembling when I do my H2O builds. Too rich for my blood though.

No matter which model you get, there are routes to fix it the way you want it. Some just require more work than others and are subject to parts availability. I wouldn't be afraid of 922 compliance since many of the parts are parts you'll want anyway. Aftermarket magazine tubes are lighter and better made than the OEM two piece design. What really bites people is the costs for the collapsible stocks. A lot of people are buying a M1014 just to steal the collapsible stock, then installing it onto one of the 117** series. They then sell off the M1014 with the pistol grip stock to recoup their money. Others are buying the M1014, then sourcing a 3 position receiver extension and making the stock function. These extensions can be hard to find lately and the installation process is beyond most end users. I swap out a bunch of them customers, so there are options, it just means added costs to get it where you want it.

I don't think you can monetize firearm content thru youtube's Google Adsense. That's why people like GrandThumb have sponsors and Patreon. My 12 year old daughter is the youtube master. She has an animation channel with like 12k subscribers and makes like 750 a month.

Finally got a break in the rain and was able to hit my BLM range to test three of the M4 H2O's and get them sighted in. The three up for testing riding in the Pelican 1750. What's interesting here is there are three different magazine tube configurations. More on this in a bit. The overall goal was to sight them in with slugs at 50 yards. I use a laser range finder to get the distance right on my B27 target stand. I then have a lead sled that I sit on a folding table with a chair behind it to take as much of the shooter out of the equation. Once they were sighted in, I ran about 25 rounds of buckshot and 50 rounds of birdshot to test out how each is performing. First up for testing was the center M4 with a Trijicon SRO 2.5 moa dot optic and a titanium magazine tube. Function was flawless and I had it doing head shots on the B27 within 6 rounds. Ouch. Up next was the OD green M4 with the Trijicon RMR 1.0 moa optic. My personal favorite. This one has the lightweight carbon fiber magazine tube. Iron sights removed to cut weight. Sighting in was just as easy. However the groups were slightly larger than I was seeing with the titanium tubed model, which I didn't photograph. Function was flawless for the remainder of the tests. Blew up a lot of random crap in the desert with it. Third up was the H2O with the SRO 5.0 moa dot optic and the steel OEM magazine tube. 5.0 moa is massive. At 50 yards, the dot filled almost the entire head of the B27. Problems emerged immediately. The firearm was having issues loading the last round from the magazine tube onto the carrier properly. The round ejects onto the carrier partially, but then the elevator cannot lift it to load it since the front of the round hangs up on the receiver. Diagnosis for this is a shitty magazine spring. It'll be swapped out with a carriercomp spring. I continued testing anyway since the malfunction only appeared every third time or so. Even with the monster 5.0 moa dot, the steel magazine tube was much more rigid of a base and permitted me to make some incredible groups. This was the first time I've shot one of those Benelli compensator breeching chokes. I didn't notice any real benefit in recoil reduction. I did notice the extra 7 ounces of weight on the end of the barrel. After cleanup of the site, 90% of the shells were mine. I went thru quite a bit of 12 gauge! So the shotgun is probably more accurate with the steel magazine tube. Not enough to really matter at shotgun distances. I'll still stick with the carbon fiber magazine tubes on mine since they are much lighter up front. I would not use the breecher choke unless I absolutely had to for some outlined mission objective role. The SRO is much more forgiving for your cheek placement than the RMR. Smaller the dot the better. The smallest dot isn't any harder to find than the largest one. So it comes down to how much of the target you can tolerate being obstructed.

? Definitely have to throw as much money into the training side as the equipment side if you don't want to suck. Even then, someone might get lucky. They're fun builds to be involved with. The AR15 and AR10 had an insane amount of work done to them to make everything work right. I'm expecting the accuracy of that AR10 to be as good as it looks with that 24" Bartlein spiral fluted barrel.

Some building has been going on these past few nights! That FDE/H2O has been a nightmare. Extensive taping was required to blast off the NP3 from the exterior for paint adhesion. Some pieces are going back since they weren't done exactly right. I recently expanded my work bench to 15' x 5', and the entire work surface was covered in parts waiting for fitting and assembly. The OD Green/NP3 M4. This one started out as a Cerakoted H2O. Lots of work to get to here. With COVID and Biden donkey punching us, this project has been going on for a year. Weapon light is a Surefire M600DF lamp head on a Modlite 18650 body. I machined the tailcap to remove the shroud from the Surefire Z68. Even the hardware that holds the light to the IWC mount and the IWC mount screws were all NP3 plated, then the exterior visible head of the screws were painted. The handguard assemblies were stippled by Tango Industries, then painted FDE. Originally the FFT handguards were their tan version. Magazine tube is a carriercomp titanium tube. So much work went into this assembly. Only the visible portions of the bolt carrier were painted in FDE. The rest is all NP3. The stem of the bolt handle is still in NP3. The screws under the Sync rail were left in NP3, where as the two visible ones had their tops painted. The trigger pin was NP3 plated, then just the tips were painted FDE. The bolt isn't locked forward or rearward because the link isn't installed. The link is being partially painted in FDE so the visible portion thru the ejection port area won't be shiny silver. Rubber parts can't be properly painted, so they were left black. Note the shell release lever below the shotgun. Just the visible portion of the lever was painted in FDE. The rest was left in NP3. Other fun stuff being built. AR10 in 6.5 Creedmoor. It's a mix of NP3 and FDE Cerakote. By far the nicest AR15 I've ever built. Wish it was mine! Still waiting on a few items to finish it up. It's a blend of OD green and NP3. Lithium aluminum receiver set. Andros carbon fiber receiver extension. Proof Research 14.5" carbon fiber wrapped barrel. SLR Rifleworks titanium adjustable gas block. Modlite OKW in OD green cerakote. Railscales KOS panels with integrated sling mounts and hand stop. G10 panels were painted with OD green Cerakote. JP Enterprises LMOS bolt carrier group. JP Enterprises silent buffer. Geissele SD3G trigger. Trijicon RMR RM09 Type II on a Scalarworks mount. NP3 plated B.E. Meyers 249 flash suppressor pinned and welded in place to make barrel length. V Seven lightened parts thrown in wherever possible.

When I was a kid, I had this Chinese one pump .177 caliber rifle. That thing fucks. I think it was only like 600 FPS, but that was pretty good back in the 90’s. It was so accurate with iron sights that I would cut those rubber super balls in half and lay them on the ground out at 50-70 yards, and chase them away out of sight. Same with 12 gauge hulls. It was a sad day when that thing broke and couldn’t be repaired.

I have one of those Gamo Bone Collector 22 caliber single pump air rifles with an integrated suppressor. Man that thing thumps. It beats the hell out of my old 22 caliber Sheridan that took 10 pumps.

Still cleaner than most women’s cars!