StrangerDanger

Do you think it would clear if the shroud was removed from the tailcap?

Thanks for replying Greg. Your work is excellent!

The larger the button, the easier it is to break the post the button is mounted to. This post is welded into the body of the stamped sheet metal latch. If you hit it hard or twist it, it can break the weld and you end up with a shitty fidget spinner. I broke a GG$G years ago when unscrewing the pad without holding the pad with a wrench. GG$G did replace it for me. I wish FFT had spent more time improving the latch so that it was easier/smoother to load the M4. They’re set up with a plater too, wouldn’t hurt to have the latch Np3 plated. This added value would make the price point more palatable and would possibly convince owners who already have a GG$G to upgrade.

The price is certainly up there!

Nice job! Does it have the cheek riser, screws and washers? The rubber grip can be a fight to get on, but it’s doable.

I’ve removed a bunch of these for refinishing jobs and tear downs. It’s not bad with the proper snap ring pliers. I buy Knipex which makes the task easy. A cheap pair of pliers will lead to swearing and possibly marring the receiver. Pull the axle pin out to the fully extended position. I like the angled Knipex 48 21 J11 pliers to get under the head of the pin. Removal is easy with good pliers. The pliers can only go in so deep into the ring. Once the snap ring is removed from the receiver, it will be trapped on the axle pin. At this point a good tug will remove the axle pin from the receiver. Here is the orientation of the pin and the mounting hardware in order. Clean up the dirt and debris that is present in there receiver hole. Run a q-tip around the edge where the snap ring seats. Reinstallation starts with the spring. Press it flat into the receiver. Stage your snap ring and the washer onto the axle pin like shown. Now press the axle pin into the hole. Note the side of the spring the pin is on. Keep the washer and snap ring up out of the way while you work the pin past the spring leg. Now push the washer down over the spring. You might need a punch or pick to seat the washer flush. Use the same snap ring pliers to compress the snap ring and seat the ring up under the lip of the receiver. It doesn’t matter how the ring is orientated in the receiver. It will likely move around under recoils anyway.

Numrich arms has one: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439370 This nut is identical to the one in the pistol grip.

I thought you let a woman in your car!

Carriercomp was designing one with a Sog blade, but sadly it never came to be.

https://shootingsight.com/product-category/benelli/ You may still have to fit it to function with the oem trigger/disconnector.

I machined off the shroud since it jams my thumb when I hold my thumb over the button for momentary control. I almost never use the constant on feature. So if you’re firing high brass rounds, you might not like it.

I moved away from Surefire this past year as well. The M600IB sucks compared to the Modlite lamp. The M600IB is very floody with no defined hot spot. The Modlite is a laser with some spill off to the sides. Their other heads will punch out to 150 yards of white light. Surefire’s IR lamps are still decent.

Modlite PLHv2 head on an 18650 body with a Surefire Z68 tailcap. Or buy a Cloud Defensive OWL. Both should fit right on to the IWC mount. Here are the Modlite lights. The 14” barrel will be ideal and should eliminate barrel shadowing issues.

Probably cheaper to buy a correct 3 position receiver extension than to get a machinist to do a one off job. Normally these extensions are available for purchase from places like Benelli parts. They’ve restocked at least twice this year so far. Benelli did a crazy amount of heat treating on the collapsible stock parts to make it hold up to 12 gauge recoil.

Benelli can't sell the M4 in the US with the functioning collapsible stock. So this is their work around to get by the 922 compliance crap. Fortunately they're giving the end user a working collapsible stock and it hasn't been butchered further to prevent the end user from making it work.

Same. My burnt bronze M4 came like that. In better times the receiver extensions can be bought and the neutered extensions can be swapped out. It’s a pain in the ass, but doable.

The stock isn’t pinned, Benelli uses a neutered receiver extension that won’t allow the stock to collapse. It only has the install notch and the fully extended position.

The 5 round titanium birds are rare, not likely going to find one for sale. They haven't made a whole lot of those. They're mainly for guys chasing weight reduction on their Entry model.

I would probably contact Briley to see what can be done. Shipping the firearm is pretty easy to a gunsmith.

Read thru this old thread of mine and it'll show you the techniques to get the screw out.

Definitely.

Are you using the pin supplied by A&S? They should have a rear trigger pin and a safety retainer pin since they’re both proprietary parts for the trigger pack.

Tighter than what you're doing now apparently! There is no real torque spec. that I know of. Using the grease on the threads does allow you to torque it a bit tighter with less chance of it unscrewing.

Closest thing I've seen to adapting an AR15 grip into this type of shotgun platform is the Asgard Defense Systems Kriger shotgun. I don't know if they even exist in the wild or if they're just vaporware. https://asgarddefense.com/

Interesting. I've had better luck buying the IWC mounts from Freedom Fighter Tactical. Lately orders directly to IWC have sat in backorder hell until I get tired of waiting and find the parts elsewhere.