StrangerDanger

Yep. That’s probably the cheapest route. If you want to try it, you just need to notch the end of the extension so that you can drive a punch or pick under one end of the snap ring. What I do is I cut the notch where there is a gap between the ring, then move the ring by pushing on one end of the ring so that the leg now lines up with the notch you cut. Once that is done you can get an end of a small punch or pick under the leg or the ring and dislodge it from the race. The notch won’t hurt the extension and it could still be used if needed. The ring is pretty easy to install. It will collapse when pushed in. Then you can rock it into the race quite easily.

I assume the extension you bought was stripped? You have two options, you can buy the flexible ring to install or you can modify your old receiver extension to get the flexible ring out. Do you have a Dremel with a cut off disc to notch the raceway? I guess you have a third option, you can send me the extension and I’d get it out for you, and install it in the new extension if you want. Just cover the cost of return shipping. Buy option: https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/70071

I’m a fan of the Trijicon RMR on a Scalarworks Sync rail. It seems to be the best height at the fully extended stock position. I think the Holosun 507 might fit it since it copied the RMR footprint.

I haven’t seen any in a long time. They don’t seem to be currently in production.

Awesome user name! Never seen anything like that. Closest you’ll find is replacement apertures that have fiber optic elements in them. Another option is to remove the sights and mount an optic to the top rail.

I do work on Glocks a lot! My adventures in disassembling HK pistols has been interesting. ? I used to carry a 1911, a stainless Ed Brown Kobra Carry. No matter what I did, I couldn’t shoot it for shit.

Agreed. I’ve worked on a lot of Beretta 9x pistols. Used to carry a 92G Elite II on duty. Lot of work with Ernest Langdon back at the beginning of LTT. The factory trigger springs were always crap and Wolff made a solid replacement that improved the trigger. The hammer springs were usually swapped out with the D model spring.

The issue with light main springs is they might not have the energy to reliably chamber a round. The carrier can hang up with a round on the elevator and it might not have the energy to force the round into the chamber. As you get close to the edge of function, things like improper stance can cause it to fail. The user then usually has to slap the bolt handle forward to get it into battery.

Benelli should sell them as a thin blue line law enforcement edition. People will pay a premium! A forum member sent me a blue M4 and a black M1014. The color is drastically different between the two. They used to release a bunch of M4’s that had an OD green hue. The blue ones still look better than the purple Barney preban Bushmaster AR-15’s.

Thanks Joe. My best guess is Benelli isn’t using a Loctite product, so the green is some European type that animals can safely eat.

I've done about 150 of these receivers. No issues with anodizing cracking in my experience. I generally keep the heat on the receiver extension. A torch will discolor the extension. However, if you are removing a neutered extension, it doesn't really matter, they're pretty much garbage. There is a thermal goop material that you can wrap around the extension if you're attempting to keep it pristine. It works alright. A heatgun generally does not discolor the finish. It can take 20 - 60 minutes for the loctite to break down. I've had a few receivers that wouldn't come apart after several hours of heating.

Sure thing. Fire a text off if you need any help.

I was told last year the tank wasn’t large enough to do the Benelli M4 barrels in Armorlube. I’d probably just have the parts Cerakoted in carbon black. Avoid the threaded parts of the magazine tube and the interior. Avoid the chrome barrel extension, seat ring which seats against the face if the receiver, and gas piston channels.

Dave - Glad to help. You do not need to remove the sights. You will want to remove the trigger pack, bolt carrier and disassemble the existing receiver extension by removing the snap ring from the end, and unscrewing the plug. Careful of the spring tension inside there. I put a punch thru one of the drain holes to retain the spring. Once apart you can dump the plunger out. For a solvent, spraying it out with break cleaner would be fine. You’ll likely see smoke, but I’ve never had flames from whatever lubricant the factory uses. Keep your flame on the jam nut and the neutered receiver extension. Be careful where you clamp the receiver in the vice. You don’t want the jaws on top of the trigger pack takedown pin. I mostly clamp below the rear sight and flip the receiver upside down when needed. The jaws can chew up the takedown pin if the receiver is pivoting on it. Be sure to use some kind of padding between the receiver and the jaws to prevent marring. I think I have to do two of these later tonight after work!

That's weird. I would try a Surefire Z68 tailcap to see if it corrects the issue. Another option would be to contact Modlite and see what they say, perhaps the issue is with the head?

That would be correct for the co-alignment.

They are nice. The surface hardness on them is the best I’ve seen. Even the oem hammers get dented up by slapping the bolt carrier over and over. The Geissele doesn’t show any wear marks. I wouldn’t pay the insane prices people sell them for though. If Geissele was producing more, I’d buy them for my builds.

Acetone or 70% alcohol in several clean rags should do it. The trouble with those wipe pads is there usually just isn’t enough surface area to remove contaminants. You end up just pushing them around. Clean, let it dry, clean again, and repeat maybe a third time to make sure the surface is prepped. Avoid touching the area with bare fingers since your skin has a lot of oil in it. Wait until it is completely dry, then adhere the Velcro. Give it 24 - 72 hours to set up before ripping the sleeve off and on.

What did you clean the surface with? Sometimes those alcohol pads aren’t enough to remove all the surface oils present.

You should be alright. Your T2 will be a fine red dot, where as the tritium will be a dull green dot. If you end up hating it, you can always remove the iron sights pretty easily.

The old model from like 15 years ago shipped with the wrong thread pitch screws and caused damage. The new ones should be fine. The saddle may leave some marks on the side of your receiver. The unit has a rubberized pad to help protect the finish, but it can still cause burnishing. Personally, I'd go with a velcro system over the Mesa saddle.

Any kids in the house? How are you storing it in the house? Personally I leave it loaded with the safety on.

I like that FFT bolt release. The checkering looks quite nice. I’ve burned my finger many times on the lines of the GG&G when moving too fast on the bolt handle. That pattern might be more forgiving?

Yeah, he’s not right. That finish is microns thick. I’ve filed thru it a bunch doing loading port jobs. That handle has much more clearance than that in its normal position. When watching the receiver in slow-mo, you can see the receiver flex during recoil. If it was that tight, it would be making contact. If you try, you can force the handle past the detent and end up rubbing the receiver. This is the issue TTI had with their original bolt knobs. They were being over-inserted by the end user or being pushed in during transport. It caused a lot of damage too. I’m not a fan of the 3/4” size, but that’s just my personal preference. I don’t care for knurling on it either. Didn’t care for it on the Carriercomp one either. I’ve settled in on the new TTI model. Pro Tip:If you’re shipping guns or transporting in a case you should remove the bolt knobs.

Yikes. Not an issue with the thickness of Cerakote. The bolt handle was likely over inserted past the detent notches. No idea about the wear at the front of the ejection port. It’s possible it was done while in some kind of storage case. Even his handguards look a little wonky to me?