StrangerDanger

Definitely do a full length tube. Never cared much for the two round extensions. I was out hiking in the Mojave with the M4 with a carbon fiber magazine tube on it. The weight reduction was appreciable. I use the Carriercomp springs since they don’t seem to need trimming to fit seven rounds. I’d use the Briley follower with their tube. Regular followers may not be beveled at the leading edge which may caught the follower to catch on the transition points between the stainless steel threaded end and the body of the carbon fiber tube.

Yes. But not all fasteners on the Benelli have known torque specs. The only negative to using thread locker is the need to clean the thread locker off if you need to remove the screw for whatever reason. A Dremel and aside wheel work well, but you have to get creative to hold small screws while cleaning them. I squeeze the screws in a padded vice then rotate them as I work around the diameter of the screws. Knowing which thread locker to use is also important. There are different grades of blue and red Loctite. Blue 242 is best for steel to steel components. Blue 243 is best for steel to aluminum components. I use red 272 on things like the receiver extensions. You should be using a Loctite primer which is essentially Acetone to clean your screws and the threaded holes they’re going into. This removes oil contaminants that may reduce the effectiveness of the Loctite. In other projects I use the green Loctite wicking type for bedding AR15/AR10 barrel to receiver fit after taking up as much barrel slop as possible with shims.

I use the Hexolite 32’s for black bear defense. Never had to shoot one yet since they’re pretty rare, but not unheard of. I have shot a bunch of the Hexolite32’s and found the recoil to be mild. Like on par with 2 3/4 buckshot. I shot some old 60’s era steel car doors and they whistled right thru them.

Looks like you got it! Not super hard to do, but annoying none the less.

Yes. Drop in fit.

I believe the Midwest ones are stripped. No plunger, spring, snap ring, stock screw plug or the flexible ring. All can be transferred from your existing extension to the new one. The flexible ring is the only difficult one.

These were stripped ones. Which taking most of the internals out is simple enough. However, the flexible ring is kind of annoying to remove. You have to notch the existing tube so that you can get a punch under one leg of the ring and drive it out of the race. Or buy another 5 dollar ring when in stock somewhere.

I’d buy a M1014 and a 11707 or other model that has the 3 position receiver extension. Then I’d take the stock from the M1014 and install it on the 11707. Put the fixed pistol grip stock on the M1014 and recoups the majority of my cash out of its sale. Bigger upfront cash layout, but you’d have the stock you want for 350-450 dollars and it would be had as soon as they shotguns delivered.

Mainly so keep the shroud from jamming my thumb during the recoil of 12 gauge. There is no clearance issue with the shroud.

Briley does sell some titanium chokes that are really nicely made. They're a fraction of an ounce lighter than the OEM choke. However, their location at the end of the barrel makes that fraction of an ounce more valuable. You have to be at the top of your game to notice a difference here though. I'd recommend the Briley choke grease, their choke brush, and their choke tightening tool to have in your kit.

If you want the parts to fit, you're going to need to file on the hammer. You'll want to remove material from the sear contact that engages the disconnector. You remove enough to the point that the sear will slip past the disconnector when the trigger is not being pressed. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to remove enough material to resolve the issue. A file with a safe edge works best so you can use it as a guide against the hammer body to keep your file straight. I don't know where the issue lies anymore. It seems the aftermarket parts are needing fitting these days in both the OEM and A&S frames. In the past the parts were all drop in without any issues.

Sorry, didn’t see the message. No direct obstruction of the dot. You’ll just see the aperture and front blade in the bottom 1/3 of the optic’s glass.

azwhip: Which rail did you find to be more comfortable? The only reason I’d consider the rail is if I built the light mount up so there was no barrel shadowing. So the longer 13” would be the only viable option from Briley.

Sorry, those are all long gone.

If you’re more prone to use the middle position of the collapsible stock, the optic may be mounted lower than feels comfortable. Some do not care for the cluttered sight picture because the irons are visible thru the optic. Solutions exist for this by removing the iron sights.

I would avoid the Mesa Tactical shell carrier and look into using a Velcro card system. These add little weight and don’t rely on the thin receiver holes for mounting. Velcro crushes flat when not in use. The Velcro is easier to pull the shells from than the Mesa unit. the Velcro will be easier on the finish too. With a Velcro system, you can use the dedicated optic mounts like the Scalarworks Sync rail. I personally prefer the RMR over the SRO since the RMR is quite a bit tougher. I’d go for the smallest dot size available which is the RM09 1moa dot size.

Agency makes good parts. I recently bought one of their magwells for my Glock 19 gen 4. I kept pinching my hand between the magazine and the bottom of the grip during speed reloads. So I added their magwell and the problem went completely away. It kept me from having to move up to a 17 grip.

You don't have a lot of options. There is the Mesa Urbino stock with its short length of pull. The OEM field stock. The OEM pistol grip stock. The OEM collapsible stock. Some have cut the field and pistol grip stocks down to a shorter overall length.

If you have a guy who does Cerakote, you can have the visible area of the trigger painted to cover up the bling.

Cool build! Love those Railscales. Too bad the KOS ones won’t fit that handguard. With the modifications to the bolt, is there any performance gains stated by Agency Arms, or is it just cosmetic?

It'll depend on if you have a NP3 or a Cerakote H20. The NP3 FFT tube will match pretty damn close to a real deal NP3 M4. The match will be in the ballpark if you have a Cerakote model. I think you have a lot better options available than going with the steel FFT tube with the NP3 finish. The NP3 finish is pretty resilient from damage, but you could scuff it if you tried. The main benefit of NP3 is it is a nickel finish with embedded teflon which permanently lubricates the components. If picking a titanium model, I'd go with the muted finish carriercomp model. The carbon fiber ones look good on the H2O in my opinion. It is also the lightest option out there.

It comes down to the weight you want. The titanium magazine tubes are going to weigh in around 5.5 ounces. The steel tubes are going to be about 8 - 10 ounces. The value of the NP3 on the magazine tube is mostly cosmetic. I haven't noticed much benefit from having a plated magazine tube. Carriercomp has a muted finish that is pretty close to the NP3 finish. Another option is to do the Briley carbon fiber magazine tube that matches quite well. It's also lighter than the titanium tubes.

60 of them that came with the collapsible stock and a full length magazine tube. After that, Benelli neutered them and sold a bunch that were NP3 plated. Then a few years ago they stopped doing the NP3 presumably because it's insanely expensive, and switched to the Cerakote model. Some of NP3 models had fitting issues from tolerance stacking. Benelli skimped on plating a lot of the parts they should have like the aluminumm trigger frames. The ones I send in to Wright end up having everything steel and aluminum plated except the disconnector pin, bolt handle retainer pin and all the springs.

If you have some big money to invest, you could always turn your blue M4 into a real deal NP3 H2O.

They’re better made than oem. Aftermarket trigger kit like FFT will need to be fitting to it. It isn’t hard to do. The kit will likely need to be fitted to an oem frame as well.