StrangerDanger

I’m not a fan of the way it limits bolt travel rearward. It makes it rather easy to screw up a bolt rack. Never experienced any failures during live fire though. I’m probably going to pull both of mine.

The orange ones look like rust to me. I'd soak a rag in oil and rub the finish. They might come off. You might want to check inside your barrel also. Run a cloth patch down it and see if it comes out gray or brown. Are you in a high humidity area?

I’d like to see the mounting solution. The REIN does look good. Those plated RMR’s are hard to come by these days. Not sure if they ever made any Type II models. Even getting Cerakoted ones lately is difficult.

I never cared for the larger dot size optics. At a 100 yards, a 6 moa dot will cover 6” of the target. Where as a 1 moa will cover 1” of the target. I never found the larger dots to be easier or faster to find particularly on a rifle or shotgun that has an established cheekweld. On optics like the RMR, I can’t really tell the difference between the 1 and the 3.5 moa dot size.

Pictures to follow along with for the sling mount.

The sling plate isn’t threaded at all. So the main bolt that goes thru the sling plate, then thread into that locking plate with the 8 spring washers compressed between the sling plate and the locking plate. The spring washers have to be orientated in a specific way too. Since there is no head on that main bolt to tighten with, you have to use the 13mm nut to tighten it to the locking plate. It doesn’t have to be put in very tight since you need to be able to remove it. The only way to remove it is by adding another 13mm nut to the buttstock side of the main bolt that should be sticking out past the locking plate. Once that nut is firmly in place, it should hold the bolt in place and allow you to remove the first nut that is deep inside the receiver sides. I would have never figured out how to get it apart without benelliwerks assistance.

If you get stuck, hit me up. Hardest part is getting the 13mm nut off of the stock screw with nothing to grab it by.

If you want, I can send you my number and you can text or whatever when you’re doing it in the event you run into any issues. I’m sure we can work thru it quickly. Definitely read the tutorial a couple times to get feel for the job. I feel the only difficult part is timing the new extension correctly and getting everything torqued. The disassembly side is easy.

You’ll want to look up my tutorial on how to disassemble the plastic stocks in order to install one of these. It’s up there on the skill level.

Someone has to help fund Taran’s future paternity suits! I personally don’t care for knurling on a bolt handle. It cuts up my hands when I’m going fast and I have pretty rough hands. If I’m doing my job right, I rarely ever touch the bolt handle. You want to avoid running dry. If you’ve fired a round or more, start reloading ASAP. Once you’ve locked the bolt back, it takes quite a bit of motor skills to get back in the game. This is even more important if you’re using a entry length with reduced capacity.

A machinist would charge you more than the cost of an extension. Then you’d have the issues or it needing to be heat treated like the factory does and refinishing. It would definitely have to be removed from the receiver to do the work. I have never seen anyone post pictures of a successfully done one.

Clean build, looks great!

Thanks guys. Always happy to help. Now where are the pictures!

You'll need heat to remove the magazine tube, but it comes off a lot easier than the receiver extension. Loctite isn't mandatory for the magazine tube, but I usually use Blue Loctite 243 on it.

I’d probably just get the A&S frame and drop a FFT kit in it. The newer polymer frames seem to have been made to a different spec. The hammer tends to hang up on the disconnector. You might see some deformation over time on the FFT which is similar to the oem hammer. This wear doesn’t cause any functional problems. The Geissele hammers are nice since they’re using their magic tool steel that is extremely hard. You can mix it with the FFT disconnector and trigger if you wanted. That the setup I have in my ‘best’ M4.

Glad you got everything straightened out!

I don't even pull them when plating. They just plate right over them. The only reason I have had to remove them is when we used to get 3 position receiver extensions that didn't have any internal parts. So taking one out of the neutered model was difficult.

Firearms are often times over cleaned. I left my burnt bronze M4 dirty for several thousand rounds over a two year period. I was curious to see where a failure would emerge. I shot a couple squirts of oil into the receiver where the bolt carrier rides a few times. Never had any issues. Got tired of looking at the fowling and cleaned it out of habit. It wasn’t even that dirty.

Now those are some cool custom tools! Mine is much less involved. I put a Glock disassembly tool thru the drainage hole to retain the spring. Remove the c clip with snap ring pliers, then unscrew the stock retainer plug with the Weaver bit. With the Glock tool in place, the spring will only extend a few inches past the end of the extension. I then cover the end with a rag and pull the Glock tool to set the grease snake free. The spring tension isn’t too crazy. Then the plunger dumps out with gravity. Reassembly is pretty easy. I put the shotgun upside down in the vice so gravity is on my side. Drop the plunger in, then start feeding the spring in. I hold the bottom of the receiver extension with my left hand and feed a few inches of spring in at a time. I then grasp the newly compressed section of spring with my left hand thumb and pointer finger. Repeat until it’s flush with the receiver extension. Insert the Glock tool thru the drainage hole and only a couple inches of spring will extend out the end. It’s then easily compressed with the stock retainer plug and screwed into depth. Remove the Glock tool from the drainage hole and release the spring. Reinstall the c-clip with snap ring pliers.

On the receiver extension and the jam nut, yes. You’ll want red 271. If this comes loose on you, you’re going to have a bad time. The stock could twist on you during recoil and end up socking you in the mouth under 12 gauge recoil. The receiver extension never bottoms out and tightens against anything. You can spin it freely by hand on the threads 8.5 full rotations in. The only thing that keeps it indexed is the thread locker and the jam nut. I put on a lot of Loctite. Every part of the thread is coated. Even the jam nut where it makes contact with the receiver is essentially glued to the receiver. After everything is tightened and the timing is checked, the excess Loctite is then wiped off so that you don’t see any of it.

No helicoils present. Ifyou degrease the screws and threads with acetone, the Loctite will perform better. For steel to aluminum, you’d want blueLoctite 243. There are several different number grades for each color Loctite. Each is blended for a specific application. Would regular old 242 work? Sure. You can use a silver Sharpie to mark your screws to give a visual indicator to check if a screw is backing out. Just mark part of the screw so that the marker applies ink to the body of the mount as well. If you see the strip out of alignment, you’ll know it’s moving and needs attention.

If you don’t remove the spring from the old receiver extension before heating, that spring will likely be trash. You’ll also get more smoke from the lubricants on the spring and internal parts.

If you have a big enough flat screw driver, you can probably remove it. The screwed in plug isn’t in there very tight. I reinstall them most of the way with my thumb by pushing on it and rotating my thumb until I can’t reach it anymore. You’ll want the max heat setting for a heatgun. I prefer the MAPP torch since it’s faster and the receiver seems to soak up less heat. A lot of heat guns just aren’t man enough to do the job. If you’re picking between the heat gun and torch to buy, go with the torch. They seem scary to use, but they aren’t really. My 12 year old daughter uses it on projects and to light our pellet stove. They’re pretty cheap too. Most of the heat is applied to the old receiver extension. The receiver will certainly be hot to the touch, but it generally isn’t over 200 degrees near the extension. Removal of the extension is pretty easy. Timing the new one while the red 271 Loctite clock is ticking is the pain in the ass part. Use my later discovered trick of chilling the parts in the freezer to give you more time.

That should work fine. When I modify existing extensions to remove that flexible ring, I notch the front of the tube rather than disturb the threads. FB9C2D9C-6A4D-4418-B8F1-FF57DBDDEEAE.webp

If it is quite cold, you may be experiencing issues with your lubricant of choice. As it gets cold, many lubricants thicken and change viscosity. Make sure your magazine tube is clean and doesn’t have any lubricant in it. Lube in here collects fowling and shell buffering media which can rob the magazine spring of tension. On these shotguns, the last round in the magazine tube has the least amount of tension on it. I’d disassemble the receiver extension and clean out the fowling and shot shell buffering media that will be mixing with the lubricant inside. The more rounds you fire, the more contaminants will build up inside here. How the lubricant performs in cold weather will also be important. Disassembly and cleaning of the bolt carrier is also important. Same applies to the trigger pack. Anything that causes resistance robs you of inertia energy. Shouldering these inertia operated shotguns firmly is mandatory. Sometimes you get into weird positions when trying to line up a shot from a blind or from cover. Thick jackets can rob the shotgun of inertia. If you’re using weaker rounds, this can cause cycling issues to appear.